GBS307PDB5 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

This was more difficult than anticipated - probably because I'd never done it before. Once I got the door off (I didn't have the proper pins and used nails but didn't realize they had to be headless) I found all the screws, which were relatively easy to take out. I was surprised that the thermal door glass was obscured by two other panes of glass. It took more disassembly than anticipated and a few false starts when reassembling, but all in all it got done. I was happy that a job that would have cost probably $300 or more ended up getting done for $40 plus my labor - which isn't worth much these days. I'd certaily do it again.

1- TURN OFF POWER TO OVEN
2- REMOVE OVEN
3- REMOVE BACK PANEL SHROUDING
4- DISCONNECT POWER TO BLOWER
5- REMOVE BLOWER UNIT
5- REPLACE WITH NEW UNIT
6- RECONNECTED POWER
7- PUT OVEN BACK

Remove rear panel - remove sensor from inside - unplug from rear - reverse to install - did not fix problem

Disconnect the sensor harness and checked resistance on the sensor,should read around 1100 ohm I only got 25.The sensor is mounted in the oven cavity back wall below upper element,the door must be removed. Unscrew 2 Philips head screw,unhook the harness,install new sensor,reconnect harness,install screws.

1. Disconnect AC power 2. Remove back with several sheet metal screws. 3. Remove wires from Limit Thermostat. 4. Check Limit Thermostat continuity -- if open then Limit Thermostat is faulty. 5. Remove Limit Thermostat with two screws. 6. Install new thermostat

Cut the power. Undid the screws to the element. Popped off the old element replaced with new,put screws back in turned power back on and Shazam it was up and going

Followed a video. Followed instructions

XLarge pizza tray in a 450 degree oven - slam the door & CRACK. Replacement glass arrived on Saturday - VERY FAST DELIVERY. Placed 2 allen wrenches in both hinges - open the door half way & lift up. Place the door on a towel. Removed 6 screws, lift & seperated the inner oven covering, removed the broken glass & cleaned inside & replaced with new glass. More time was spent cleaning & coming up with a tool to fit into the hinge

Thanks for the excellent service. Parts cheaper than local stores, arrived on time, with NO PROBLEMS.
Installation, probably 30-minutes. Took the opportunity to clean glass, door panels, etc while disassembled, so used about an hour. Oven cleaner was a big help in the cleanup.
Very rewarding project and it saves changing the unit and and refitting the countertop.

Once we figured out to use small allen wrenches in the small holes of the hinge to enable us to lift the door off everything went smoothly. Took out six screws, lifted out the hinges - inserted new ones, replaced screws and replaced door. Yipee

I found that what was keeping the old temp sensor electrical connection attached to the stove-side connection was a little tab. It wasn't obvious that that was the thing that was keeping the connection secure but there weren't any other alternatives. So pushing the tab up with the metal probe (just a narrow rigid metal wire) allowed me to pull the connection apart.

All this takes place way at the back of the oven so its difficult to fiddle with a screwdriver and the retaining screws at arms length. Putting a bit of scotch tape around the screw to keep it attached to the screwdriver kept it from falling off. My hand was a bit shaky extended like that so that was the way to go.

Bottom line, if your oven won't reach or hold the temp you dial in on the control panel it's the temperature sensor. Now if I set it for 300 deg. that's what I get.

Originally ordered just the spring assuming that might be it and it was the cheapest way. However after getting in I found that the latch assembly had a broken 'tit' that is intended to hold the metal latch in place as it moves. Attempted to glue w/ epoxy but as i expected there was too much pressure to hold it in place. So....ordered the assembly.

TURN OFF BREAKER.....

1) Remove the two side rails by removing screw on the inside bottom of rails.
2) It helps to remove the door to get it out of your way but not required. To do this open door fully and insert two nails or similar into holes on each hinge. Close the door until the hinge contact nails. Lift the door up and out.
3) remove the top control panel by removing screw on either side (outside of oven)and screws on the underside of panel behind upper door.
4) It help to completely remove the panel to have more room to work but not required. If you do it is a good idea to photo the cable locations so it is easy to recall where they go. For the most part they only fit one location but always a good idea.
5) remove the latch by removing all spade connectors and two screws in front.
6) place new latch and reassemble.

unscrew cover
remove old bulb
screw in new bulb
replace cover

Well, the instructions on the computer site were very easy to understand, however, the difficulty lay in the fact that we were 2 78 yr old people and getting to the inside the oven, lifting up the element so that we could see where it should be connected and get it connected was a task. We had to get down on our knees and then get back up. That was a chore within itself. But, the instructions were easy and clear.
Bottom line if us old people can do it, anyone can.

I was able to remove the old element and planned it with what little time off that I could. This would have been maybe 20-30 minute repair at the most. HOWEVER! I was extremely irritated screws were not included? When I called to ask if they were missing they said they didn’t come with the element. Cost me a very annoying trip to the hardware store. Not sure if I missed it on the site that they don’t provide screws - would have been nice to know that before I started. Still scratching my head as to why screws wouldn’t be included? My old ones were as beat up as the element I replaced. I was so irritated I was looking for a spot to leave feedback. Product is fine. Shipping was fine. Sending these products out as they do? Zero stars on that.