RBS275PDQ2 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

After some major troubleshooting and "some" help from support folks at fixya.com I was able to pin the problem down to a blown thermistor. The repair was very simple - pull the back plate off and remove the two screws holding the thermistor in place. Replace thermistor and test both heating elements. I assume during the cleaning cycle the thermistor was over heated. Makes one wonder if it was a faulty thermistor or will it happen again on the next cleaning cycle.

Used a Phillips head screw driver to remove cover that was covering the over bottom 1/3 of the installed gasket. I then used flathead screwdriver to help remove gasket from the "pins" that were in the gasket that held it to the oven. Installed new gasket inserting pins into the oven. Then I installed cover over bottom 1/3 of gasket. Overall process was very easy

Turned off breaker to oven. Removed 2 screws, used pliers to remove 2 wires from old element, replaced with new part, connected wires to new element and screwed in 2 screws. Turned on breaker, then oven and new element heated. Very easy!

Removed the door and laid it flat with the cracked glass facing up. applied duct tape to the broken glass to help hold it together. Removed the screws from the frame holding the glass. lifted the frame off,removed the broken glass and replaced it with the new piece. replaced the frame. and put the door back on the oven.

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

Replaced the lower heating element with a new part.

Scarey> First thing you should do is cut off the electricity at the main breaker box. I dam near blowed myself up. It's 220Volt I found out after all hell blew up in my face. I was lucky and didn't get shocked.I shorted out the old broiler element.

So I made the job real easy I called a professional to come install the new broiler element.

I suggest you put a big red paper in each box that says turn off the power first. If your not sure how to do that call a pro.

After 22 years the oven stopped heating in the middle of a meal prep. The fault code was F3 oven temperature problem. I googled the codes and found PartSelect described the problem and the repair and part needed. I received the oven sensor part, then turned off the power, used a screwdriver to remove 2 screws (had to find the right size flat head screwdriver to fit the square holed screws and they were pretty baked on after 22 years of use), gently pulled the sensor and wiring through the back of the oven. I used a needle-nose plier to pull the plastic connector through the insulation, then unsnapped the connector, snapped in the new sensor connector and pushed it back through the oven wall. Pretty simple repair, took me longer to find the screw driver than the actual repair.
Thank you PartSelect for making it easy and saving me a repairman visit!

Cut the power. Undid the screws to the element. Popped off the old element replaced with new,put screws back in turned power back on and Shazam it was up and going

This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.

I was able to remove the old element and planned it with what little time off that I could. This would have been maybe 20-30 minute repair at the most. HOWEVER! I was extremely irritated screws were not included? When I called to ask if they were missing they said they didn’t come with the element. Cost me a very annoying trip to the hardware store. Not sure if I missed it on the site that they don’t provide screws - would have been nice to know that before I started. Still scratching my head as to why screws wouldn’t be included? My old ones were as beat up as the element I replaced. I was so irritated I was looking for a spot to leave feedback. Product is fine. Shipping was fine. Sending these products out as they do? Zero stars on that.

Verify power is off to the oven, turned main power supply off for the oven at the breaker panel, located the securing screws for the defective element, used a Phillips screw driver to remove the screws, pulled the element slightly out unit wires are exposed, verify 0 volts at the element wiring terminals, used pliers to remove the wires to complete the uninstalling process, reinstall the element in the reverse order, restored power at the breaker panel

Remove the left/right outside trim on the double oven. To do this you will need a phillip screw driver. There is only one screw holding each side located at the bottom of the trim (on the inside between the trim and the door). Remove the trim by pulling out and down. Remove the bottom trim by removing the screws located on the outside of the trim. Remove the trim by pulling down and out. Replace the new trim by reversing the process making sure to replace bottom trim first because the outside trim goes over bottom trim to cover up the screws on the bottom trim

First remove the side trimmings by opening the oven door and taking out the two screws near the bottom. Remove the bottom trim by removing the two screws now exposed. Here's the hard part .. The outer glass is held by 4 screws 2 at the top and 2 through U brackets at the bottom. You must remove the 2 bottom ones first and then VERY carefully, whilst supporting the glass remove the 2 top ones and then gently pull from the bottom to release the glass at the top and pull away. The rest is straightforward. There are 4 glass pieces to remove, make sure you clean the finger marks off as you replace them. I would suggest 2 people to replace the final outer glass 'to be safe"