RBS275PDQ17 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

Replaced the lower heating element with a new part.

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

My husband took the back off and replaced it. The repairman suggested pulling the range out into the floor to run the self clean mode. I have owned several such ranges and have never had to do that and won't now. Easy Clean Oven Cleaner will be the next thing I use.

Disconnect the sensor harness and checked resistance on the sensor,should read around 1100 ohm I only got 25.The sensor is mounted in the oven cavity back wall below upper element,the door must be removed. Unscrew 2 Philips head screw,unhook the harness,install new sensor,reconnect harness,install screws.

Removed and replaced boiler element

Remove rear panel - remove sensor from inside - unplug from rear - reverse to install - did not fix problem

Thanks to video provided by PartSelect the repair was fast and easy. My second experience with an appliance repair with parts and video from PartSelect. I am a happy customer.

I found that what was keeping the old temp sensor electrical connection attached to the stove-side connection was a little tab. It wasn't obvious that that was the thing that was keeping the connection secure but there weren't any other alternatives. So pushing the tab up with the metal probe (just a narrow rigid metal wire) allowed me to pull the connection apart.

All this takes place way at the back of the oven so its difficult to fiddle with a screwdriver and the retaining screws at arms length. Putting a bit of scotch tape around the screw to keep it attached to the screwdriver kept it from falling off. My hand was a bit shaky extended like that so that was the way to go.

Bottom line, if your oven won't reach or hold the temp you dial in on the control panel it's the temperature sensor. Now if I set it for 300 deg. that's what I get.

My oven (late 90's/early 2000's model) didn't have the flip-down hinge locks shown in the video. It seems Whirlpool/Kitchenaid changed the hinges even though they didn't change the model number of the oven. With my style hinges, you have to put Allen wrenches or bent nails in the holes just behind the hinge pins. Then close the door almost all the way and lift it out to separate the hinges. Spring force holds the nails in tightly until you replace the door. This video was very helpful:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7oRZdIN6m0

Also, my door had 3 different kinds of sheet metal screws. Two of them have similar heads but different threads. Keep track of which is which for when you put everything back together.

Just screwed the new one on. A repair man said it would be really difficult and a lot of people break the glass when putting it in. But that wasn't true. It was really easy.

Cut the power. Undid the screws to the element. Popped off the old element replaced with new,put screws back in turned power back on and Shazam it was up and going

1. Disconnect AC power 2. Remove back with several sheet metal screws. 3. Remove wires from Limit Thermostat. 4. Check Limit Thermostat continuity -- if open then Limit Thermostat is faulty. 5. Remove Limit Thermostat with two screws. 6. Install new thermostat

Remove the left/right outside trim on the double oven. To do this you will need a phillip screw driver. There is only one screw holding each side located at the bottom of the trim (on the inside between the trim and the door). Remove the trim by pulling out and down. Remove the bottom trim by removing the screws located on the outside of the trim. Remove the trim by pulling down and out. Replace the new trim by reversing the process making sure to replace bottom trim first because the outside trim goes over bottom trim to cover up the screws on the bottom trim

Well, the instructions on the computer site were very easy to understand, however, the difficulty lay in the fact that we were 2 78 yr old people and getting to the inside the oven, lifting up the element so that we could see where it should be connected and get it connected was a task. We had to get down on our knees and then get back up. That was a chore within itself. But, the instructions were easy and clear.
Bottom line if us old people can do it, anyone can.

Verify power is off to the oven, turned main power supply off for the oven at the breaker panel, located the securing screws for the defective element, used a Phillips screw driver to remove the screws, pulled the element slightly out unit wires are exposed, verify 0 volts at the element wiring terminals, used pliers to remove the wires to complete the uninstalling process, reinstall the element in the reverse order, restored power at the breaker panel