RBD245PDS15 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

Contacted repair person on line and explained the problem. Person suggested testing the thermal fuse. Checked for continuity and there was none indicating the fuse was blown. Ordered new part and installed. Everything working again. Only problem was that the new part did not have the same connection as the old one on one end. Made substitution and it worked.

Have a Whirlpool Accubake self cleaning wall oven that quit working after doing a cleaning. Found that the thermal overload safety thermostat might be the problem. Ordered the part which arrived in a couple of days. Installation was very easy and took about 10 minutes. First turn off power to the oven. Slide the oven out, remove the back panel, remove the old safety thermostat which has two wires coming off of it, and replace it with the new one. Put the back panel on and slid the oven back in. Turned the power to the oven back on and we had heat. Problem solved.

screwed in the new oven light

Took out the 2 screws and removed 2 wires connected to old element, put on new one. Did this all in about 5-10 minutes. Hubby didn't even have to help!

I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?

Took the door off, removed the screws, took door cover off, cleaned the other two pieces of glass and the new one, and then reassembled. I set the screws aside so I put them back in the same holes. I never want to take the chance of a possible cross threaded screw not going back into the same hole. Note:Now is a good time to clean edges with oven cleaner before reassembly.

Removed oven from the wall. Take off back panel. Removed thermal overload thermostat. Replaced with new part and works great.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

A generic video on Youtube was actually very helpful as it showed how to remove the door from the oven for easier glass replacement. The only tricky part is getting the panes of glass in the correct order during reassembly,as there are actually 4 pieces in the door. Only the piece that faces the oven's interior was cracked on mine. The two inner pieces between the two outermost pieces are the ones not to mix up. This little repair also gave me the opportunity to thoroughly clean all 4 pieces of glass that had become rather dirty over 12 years. Now the oven door looks like new!

I followed the instructions for installation on your site. I encountered two problems. I was unable to unscrew several screws. I had to used wd40 and slight encouragement from a soft hammer. Also, I was glad for the advice in one instruction about paying attention to the type of screw (flat or more flat). Otherwise, when I was ready to put everything back together, I would have had some problems. The flatter screws definitely had to be used in certain areas.

I watched a video on line about how to do the baking element. I did not want to take the door off so it made it more difficult to get to the back where the connections are located. The broiler element has screws holding it up where the over element is resting on the bottom. The video said that you should test the conductivity but I did not have the object needed to do that. It was supposed to solve 99% of the problem to just replace it. When it was removed, I could see that it had a hole blown out on the coil. Problem solved without a repairman needed which would have cost alot more and I still would have needed this part.

I did some research on blogs and identified the thermal fuse as likely culprit. Ordered part from PartSelect.com, but had to call the 800 number because the parts diagram doesn't show this fuse, just the thermostat. The fuse is located on the back of the oven, so it must be removed from the cabinet, but that wasn't a huge project. There are a bunch of sheet metal screws holding the top and back covers that must be removed. The fuse is held on by two screws and has two wire connections. Getting the stove out and disassembling is the hard part, but not really difficult if you take your time. I used a foot stool that was about the same height as the bottom of the oven and just slid the oven out on a piece of cardboard. Make sure you turn the power off before starting.