1093B1A Roper Wall Oven - Instructions

ordered on-line monday recieved on tuesday wife drying clothes tuesday evening--------just took out old element and hooked up new one --- very easy

Fairly straight forward except for hidden 5/16 self tap screw coming from back side of heat ducting that is welded to drier. You have to remove this by feel and restart by feel which may be difficult for some. This screw holds the element to the heat duct. It has to come out

My son did the repair and thought it went very well. You saved me about $400 to $800 in that I didn't have to buy a new one. You got this part to me in 48 hours and I appreciated your timely manner. Your service is great! Thanks MZ

I first disconnected the power, dryer vent hose, back panel, disconnected power leads to heater element. Next removed top screw to the heater box, slid the box up and away from lower mount. At this point I was able to remove 1 ea lower screw holding heater element in place. Removed heater element and installed new element. Put everything back in reverse order and started dryer. (Note: Be sure dryer door is closed prior to starting dryer)Yep, I screwed that up. It no "worky" when dryer door is open. Once the door was shut, it worked like a champ.

Remove screws at lint filter, open top of dryer. Remove hex screw holding top of element casing. Slide dryer away from wall, remove 5 hex heads from rear panel, exposing element casing. Remove two screws holding sensors, and move aside. Lift dryer casing slightly and pull towards you to disengage from rear panel. Turn over and remove srew holding element to casing at bottom. Slide element out, and unplug two wires, noting position of each wire. Reverse procedure to reinstall element. Dryer works better than it has for years !

Removed the back,and a few screws through the top that held the filter sleeve in.
That allows enough room to reach in under the top, and unscrew the one screw that holds the element housing in place at the top.
Lifted the housing out after disconnecting the wires to the sensors and element.
Removed the element and replace it with the new one.
All of the electrical connectors slid right on the new element and put it back together.
Everything works fine.
Spent more time cleaning debris out of the dryer while I had it apart than replacing the part.
As usual Parts Select came through with the right part delivered to my door the next day, after ordering.
Thanks

I read all the other stories and thought this would be a piece of cake. No one mentioned that you had to remove a small piece a metal holding the element casing from underneath the top of the dryer. Very hard to reach that screw. Then no one mentioned that the element casing had to be pulled out of the hole at the back of the dryer before you could remove the element. If i had known these things ahead of time, it would have been a simple project. After all is done, the element was not the problem. Now i think i need a thermostat. lol!!!!!

First of all the instructions with the part were not very plain to understand so I returned to the web site and read some of the other custormers instructions and was able to figure out how to replace the part. Just had to unscrew the back panel and remove the screws from the heating element housing and then I took the screws out of the lint compartment so I could remove the whole housing to remove the screw that held the heating element to the housing and was easy to cut the eletric wire and conect the new wires and twist the new wire cap on and put everything back together. I was so glad that when I turned the dryer back on I had heat. I am 57 year old women and If I can figure of how to fix my ole dryer than I think anyone can. When I can I will order the part for a new timer. And I hope that my dryer will last another 10 years.

I removed the back panel and took the 2 screws out at the lint screen, lifted the top back so I could remove the bracket holding the heating element can. After this was completed I was able to remove the heating element and install the new one, I had to cut the old connectors off and wire nut the new connector together. After this part was completed I reinstaaled the heating element can, secured the top back down,reinstalled the the back panel and pluged it in and wa-la it worked. I also wanted you to know that your prices are about $ 7.00 less than a few of the other part sites I checked on line and one of the sites even said that the part I needed was no longer available. I am sure glad that I kept looking and found your site because you saved me from buying a new dryer, thank you and if I get asked where to get parts I will recommend PARTSSELECT.COM.
Fred

Located heating element at PartSelect easily.Worked perfectly

Took off the back panel of the dryer. Removed the screw holding the drying element in only to discover it would not fit out the bottom of the case holding it because it was too close to the bottom of the dryer. Had to take off the top of the dryer and remove the casing, remove the element, replace it and put the casing back. Not too difficult, only two wires and one screw. Did make a couple of rookie mistakes making me backtrack and redo a few things but nothing major.

Following one of your site's more detailed repair suggestions, I began checking the higher percentage likelihood of failures and stepped-through to what my initial suspicion was: The Heating Element (13% ??). I first checked the fuse (rated at 73% probability) (both thermostats were rated very low as possible problems) and immediately went to the element. The failure was discovered in short order by checking continuity along the coils until a physical break appeared. The most helpful advice I received was from the pointers to remove the two screws attaching the heat vent/filter plenum in order to lift the dryer top and access the anchor screw attaching the top of the heating element box. I was over-joyed to find that the 29-year-old part number I entered, with the replacement number your system displayed, was PRECISELY the physical size and shape of the original heating element when I opened the package !! To borrow a page from the old PGA TV ad: "(You) guys are good." Many thanks !!

it was easy to replace the element

Pulled the dryer out, unplugged power cord. Removed back with nutdriver. Vaccumed out dust. Used multi meter to check continuity, Had no reading. Removed the top to get to restraining bar holding the top of heater element. Slid heater unit up and out of rails holding it in place. Slid the heater coil out and replaced with new unit. Then simply put things back together in reverse order.

checked element leads with voltmeter (set on ohms) - no continuity. - biggest problem is that the can over the element is screwed in from the back - you have to take out the lint filter and unscrew the two screws beneath it then pry open the dryer top - then you can unscrew the one screw holding the clamp on the can. This seems to be a feature added just so people would call out for repair - I can't imagine how it would have been quicker or easier to manufacture it this way. The can just pulls out and is hinged from the bottom - you may have to jerk on it after you remove the clamp. (pull from the top). One screw holds the element in. That is it for the replacement. Now the stupid part - check to see if the exhaust vent is clogged. I pulled several cubic feet of lint out and didn't bother to put a mask on and almost choked to death. I recommend you to get a dust mask before cleaning a tube longer than 8 feet.