1093B1A Roper Wall Oven - Instructions

Followed instructions, installed part, apparent after turning on dryer and still no heat we didnt fix the problem yet, will try another different part at a later time. At least we know we will have a fresh heating element.

My son did the repair and thought it went very well. You saved me about $400 to $800 in that I didn't have to buy a new one. You got this part to me in 48 hours and I appreciated your timely manner. Your service is great! Thanks MZ

The search to find the elements, for the chamber,was about 3 hours on the internet. The chamber is a walk in design. Made to do trermal shock testing from ( 0 to 50 C) degrees on racks of electronics. Finding out that PartsSelect had the parts was great.
I remove two circuit of heat 10KW ( 2 heaters) & a 30KW (6 heaters) & Installed the 8 new heater.
The ramp up temperature is quicker & more percise.
Thak you for your help finding the parts.
It was a pleasure to work with you.

Pat McGill

Super easy!
-unplugged
-removed the 6 screws in the rear
-pulled off the back panel
-unplugged the 2 wires attached to the heater element (note which one connects to where)
-remove dryer filter and the 2 top screws that next to it
- lifted the top up
- there is one screw at the top of the heater element casing that needed to be removed.
- poped the heater casing away from the dryer.
then pulled it out from the bottom
- removed the one screw holding the heater element in the case, and slide it out
-slide the new one in, and put the screww back in
-pushed the heater casing back up in the dryer and connected the 2 element wires.
-slide the heater casing in the 2 slots and pushed it backing to the dryer at teh top.
-screwed the on screw back in at the top of the casing.
- put the dryer top back in place and 2 fliter screws back in.
- reattached the back panel. and plugged back in.
- viola...

First of all the instructions with the part were not very plain to understand so I returned to the web site and read some of the other custormers instructions and was able to figure out how to replace the part. Just had to unscrew the back panel and remove the screws from the heating element housing and then I took the screws out of the lint compartment so I could remove the whole housing to remove the screw that held the heating element to the housing and was easy to cut the eletric wire and conect the new wires and twist the new wire cap on and put everything back together. I was so glad that when I turned the dryer back on I had heat. I am 57 year old women and If I can figure of how to fix my ole dryer than I think anyone can. When I can I will order the part for a new timer. And I hope that my dryer will last another 10 years.

Remove screws at lint filter, open top of dryer. Remove hex screw holding top of element casing. Slide dryer away from wall, remove 5 hex heads from rear panel, exposing element casing. Remove two screws holding sensors, and move aside. Lift dryer casing slightly and pull towards you to disengage from rear panel. Turn over and remove srew holding element to casing at bottom. Slide element out, and unplug two wires, noting position of each wire. Reverse procedure to reinstall element. Dryer works better than it has for years !

Fairly straight forward except for hidden 5/16 self tap screw coming from back side of heat ducting that is welded to drier. You have to remove this by feel and restart by feel which may be difficult for some. This screw holds the element to the heat duct. It has to come out

I followed the instructions provided by another user... worked like a champ!

Jacquie

I removed the back panel and took the 2 screws out at the lint screen, lifted the top back so I could remove the bracket holding the heating element can. After this was completed I was able to remove the heating element and install the new one, I had to cut the old connectors off and wire nut the new connector together. After this part was completed I reinstaaled the heating element can, secured the top back down,reinstalled the the back panel and pluged it in and wa-la it worked. I also wanted you to know that your prices are about $ 7.00 less than a few of the other part sites I checked on line and one of the sites even said that the part I needed was no longer available. I am sure glad that I kept looking and found your site because you saved me from buying a new dryer, thank you and if I get asked where to get parts I will recommend PARTSSELECT.COM.
Fred

Located heating element at PartSelect easily.Worked perfectly

Pulled the dryer out, unplugged power cord. Removed back with nutdriver. Vaccumed out dust. Used multi meter to check continuity, Had no reading. Removed the top to get to restraining bar holding the top of heater element. Slid heater unit up and out of rails holding it in place. Slid the heater coil out and replaced with new unit. Then simply put things back together in reverse order.

There are adequate repair examples in the forum especially one with the video. Pick one that you are confortable with and follow the guidelines remembering where the screws came out of off and using the magnetice extender to hold the screws removed. The video on the site was very helpful - the delivery time by partselect.com was impeccable.

Removed vent hose. Removed back of dryer. Raised top lid of dryer. My model only had a half removable back. Removed screw and spring clip from top of heater chute. Removed wires from heater element. Pulled back top of heater chute. Removed heater chute. Removed screw holding heater element. Removed element. Slid new element in chute. Replaced screw. Replaced chute on dryer. Replaced spring clip and screw. Reattached heater wires. Set dryer top down in place. Plugged dryer in. Turn dryer on to make sure it was working. Replaced back plate on dryer. Reattached dryer hose. You are finished

checked element leads with voltmeter (set on ohms) - no continuity. - biggest problem is that the can over the element is screwed in from the back - you have to take out the lint filter and unscrew the two screws beneath it then pry open the dryer top - then you can unscrew the one screw holding the clamp on the can. This seems to be a feature added just so people would call out for repair - I can't imagine how it would have been quicker or easier to manufacture it this way. The can just pulls out and is hinged from the bottom - you may have to jerk on it after you remove the clamp. (pull from the top). One screw holds the element in. That is it for the replacement. Now the stupid part - check to see if the exhaust vent is clogged. I pulled several cubic feet of lint out and didn't bother to put a mask on and almost choked to death. I recommend you to get a dust mask before cleaning a tube longer than 8 feet.

un plug power, pull out from wall,remove 5 screws and remove back cover. check heater element for curcuit found to be open. check the 2 temperature units on the heater housing, both ok. Remove the 2 flag connectors on the heating element, 2 wires each on temperature switches.remove upper heater case screw and bracker, lift and slide heater housing out of the dryer. Remove 1 screw holding heater element in the housing. compare old and new element, being the same. follow reverse steps and re assemble.