NGW6H2GKLW Norge Wall Oven - Instructions

Remove lower pan. This is tricky -- pull clips at the back of the pan forward (they may stick), Then push pan to back and lift forward portion up, exposing igniter and gas tube. Use nut driver or socket set to unscrew the two mounting screws. Had to use pliers at one point to pull on screws while turning as they were cross-threaded, perhaps due to heat. Cut wires to igniter. Pull out oven and look at exterior back of stove -- at bottom near the center opening. The power feeder wires to the igniter are red and terminate in a jack -- disconnect the igniter plug connector and pull the cut wire through. Back to the inside of the stove: you now have to force the connector for the new igniter through the insulation at the back. Pull some of the old insulation out to make this possible -- new insulation is provided in the kit. Then at back of stove connect new igniter plug to power feed jack. Then screw in new igniter with the original screws. I had to use pliers again while turning to force them past the cross-threaded area. Replace bottom pan and you are in business, saving a lot of money!!

Remove the the drawer of the gas range on the bottom, on the right side there is a alluminum cover with a bunch wires, held on with two screws,inside is the igniter kit module, make sure you unplug the range from the wall . unplug the wires from the unit and plug the new unit up and you are finish.Good luck.

First, I removed the racks, door, bottom drawer, and lifted the bottom pan up and out from the rear. Then, I unscrewed the bottom cover for the electrical stuff (under where the drawer is) as this is where the connector for the igniter is. I did a voltage test on the oven side of the connector, finding voltage there I removed the igniter by removing the 2 screws holding it to the burner. (pack lunch for that part, they will be rusted, I used a mini grinder to cut off the heads). Then I pulled the connector through the hole, and installed new igniter using self drilling screws. After i repacked the insulation, I put it back together, and it lit right up. The failed one had a bad ballast, confirmed by a continuity test.

After unplugging the oven from the wall, I removed the grates and floor of the oven, and the thing that spreads the flame out. Needless to say, I'm no repairman! Next I simply unplugged and unscrewed the old element and screwed and plugged the new one in. Replaced the floor, grates, and flame thing in, and we were back in business! It was a very easy fix, and Partselect.com was a pleasure to research and do business with! I would certainly recommend this site to others.

I removed the old igniter, held in place with two screws, pulled the wiring out to get to the clip, and undid the clip. Clipped the new igniter to the wires, pushed back into the hole at the back of the oven, installed the igniter with the two screws, and fires just like new! I had a loose wire on the old igniter and hassled with that for years because I didn't realize how easy the fix was.

Remove the shelves and floor of upper oven and remove the two screws holding the glow plug. Disconnect wiring harness and replace with new one. Screw new glow plug and replace floor and shelves.
The oven worked like a charm again.

Replaced the oven ignitor. Toughest part was removing old screws.

Came to this website to look for possible cause. The major fault for my problem was the igniter @ 61% of the time. So, I ordered this part @ about $55. Opened the range floor, removed two nut screws and old igniter, by unpluging. Plugged in new part reattached screws and tested before putting it back together. Worked fine, without snags. However I did pull up and remove oven door for complete access to oven.

Rick,
Detroit, MI.

i removed old part, then installed new one. easy

Just plugged them in and reset the door,.

Just great.

Broiler lighting fine but main oven burner not lighting. I deduced the oven igniter was most likely the point of failure. Decided to replace empirically rather than time and money for service call. Process was about as easy as replace a computer part. Removed pan and flameguard. Unplugged part from below (after removing drawer). Such a simple plug I didn't bother to throw the breaker / power down the oven. Pulling it out to get to wall plug not an option. Unscrewed old part, saw a flaw had developed in the element. Screwed on the new part, plugged it in, inserted insulation in the hole. Tested for lighting - lit first time. Replaced guard and pan, oven has worked reliably since. Research time was 5x the repair time, but in all a fraction of time and money to have a "pro."

well my brother was over,he said he had the same stove with the same symtoms so we removed bottom tray of oven lifting from the back first then the front.there inback is the igniter.pulled wire out carefully and unplugged and unscrewed 2 small bolt's,replaced igniter remembering it is very fragile,plugged igniter in replaced insulation around wire,saved me from a new oven,thank you partsselect.ps part arrived the next day wow

I removed the oven door and floor, removed the two screws holding the old part in place, unplugged it from the wiring harness and plugged in the new part and replaced the screws. Fixed in 5 minutes.

I was afraid I would have to remove the built in oven from the wall to do the repair but it was simple. I pulled on the wire a bit and the connector popped out of the hole in the back. After that it was as simple as removing 2 screws, replacing the unit, plugging it in and pushing the new connection out the hole in the back. They included a piece of insulation with the kit that I then forced into the hole to protect the new plug from the heat of the oven.

Much easier than I thought it was going to be. In about 10 minutes I had the oven working again.

I removed the two screws holding the ignighter on, pulled it a few inches, disconnected the plug, plugged the new ignighter in, tightened the two screws, turned on the power, and it worked. 1,2,3.