MEW5530DDW18 Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

I had repair men replace the door hinges 2times and decided the 3rd time to do it myself and save some $. ordering was a chinch, received the parts in 2 days and followed instructions posted on this site. They were excellent. Just a few things I would stress: Lift UP the door to remove, not open the door fully and pull out and also make sure to take the small pins out of the new hinges before closing. They are so small you could over look them. The person who put detailed instructions on this site is to be commended for clarity and detail on "How To" I really appreciated it.

We found the youtube video created by partselect.com and followed it. We took the door apart, cleaned the inside, removed the old hinges and replaced them with the new ones. Now the door works perfectly!

The sensor inserts into a slot in the back side of the range. By removing screws on the heat shield on the backside of the range, the sensor wires will be exposed can be unplugged. Then remove the screws that attach the sensor to the back inside panel in the oven. Next, pull the old sensor out. The wire leads will get caught on the insulation blanket, no big deal. Reverse the process to install the new sensor. The new sensor comes with two connector sets for the wiring. I did the whole job for less than the cost of a service call.

Disconnected power pulled oven from wall, removed 8 screws from back, unplugged sensor, removed old, attached new, put screws back wow saved me $500. From buying new and $150. For service call

bought used, oven light was damaged from previous repair attempt, without installation instructions removing the fixture was tricky, had to bend the housing tabs inward w/screwdriver to release fixture (more damage). once out the new fixture went in place quite easily, wires simply hook up, re install back panel, re-connect power, Have a nice Day!

Watching the video of how to replace the sensor was great help and much appreciated, the only difference was that my wires were much shorter and I had to pull the oven out of the cabinet to get to the back of the oven to release the clip holding the wires together, unlike the video where the man jiggled the wires until the clip holding the wires together came through the little slot where the probe is attached, otherwise it was pretty simple, just a few extra steps to pull the oven forward to get to the rear to release the clip holding the wires together. Once I was able to release the clip I used one of the 2 adapters that was sent with the sensor probe and attached them after putting the wires through the hole where the probe was attached first then replaced the 2 screws that holds the sensor in place, slid the oven back in and turned the circuit breaker back on and it works perfectly. The video gave me the confidence to do this job though and I thank PartSelect very much for being a great company to help with videos and sending the parts so quickly.

Followed the directions given on the website. The directions were great with one exception-----to clarify when disconnecting the cable ribbons, do not put out the plastic holder that they sit in on the computer board. On the ends of the plastic connectors (2 of them, one for each ribbon) there are little tabs. You need to squeeze the tabs, which then permit a part of the plastic connector to raise (the part the ribbons are inserted into), this then seems to release the grip the plastic connectors have on the ribbons. Then you can gently pull the ribbons out and insert the new ribbons (that are attached to the panel you are installing), and gently push the plastic holder back down into the plastic connector. The ribbons should not be yanked out nor should the plastic connector the ribbons are in be yanked out. Otherwise, this was a truly simple installation. I'm a 61 year old woman and the only thing I couldn't do myself was pull the oven unit out the 1/3 way ---too heavy for me. And of course taking off and putting on all the trim around the oven was a pain--not difficult, just a pain.

Unlike many here, the oven door closed enough to come up to temperature quickly and I could not feel any heat escaping. The oven worked fine but the light stayed on because the door just wasn't snug enough. I watched the great how-to video and ordered the hinges. They arrived in two or three days! I set up a work space, cued up the video again and the new hinges were installed in just a few minutes! But the door would not close enough to turn the light off! I did some more googling around and found the magnet trick! I just happened to have the perfect size magnet from a broken souvenir magnet! and now the light stays off! I stuck the magnet (about the size of a nickel) inside the door opposite the light button. This won't help if you have serious problems with the oven door, but it works if the only problem is the light!

I unscrewed the door's top edge, removed the bottom drawer to loosen the oven door's bottom edge to where its screws were hanging in by a thread. The outside glass was then removable and exposed the screws holding the door handle mounting pieces. I unscrewed the four screws that held the mounts to the door, then the two that held the handle to the mounts, replaced the broken handle with my promptly delivered new one and reassembled the door in reverse order of above. Oh yeah, reading the other accounts of how to do this was the most important step in all this.

The oven did not auto clean. Problem was the sensor stopped working. Tried to repair from the front but could not get the connector through the hole. Removed the rear panel and found the connector had melted. Could not find a new wireing harnes on line, so I cut the wires on the stove and the new sensor coupling. Spliced the wires togather. The oven cooks fine, I have not tried the cleaning cycle yet.

The thermocouple was suspect. It should be super easy- two screws, but the wiring harness would not pull through on my oven. I confirmed the procedure with the PartSelect video which is good. The harness was caught and broke so I had to pull the oven out partially to get to the harness. The sensor did check bad on the multimeter (resistance too high- Google it, I did) so I ordered the part. Once the new part was installed the oven still did not function. So I had to get busy with the multimeter and pull the oven again. On the back of my oven near the wire to the bake element is a Hi Limit Switch which cuts off the bake element if the outside of the oven gets above the preset temperature. Mine was cracked and faulty and had to be replaced. The oven works great now.

removed the door, removed the bottom, removed the glass. The handle bracket it attached to the door but though the vented part. After removing the old handle just had to put it all together again, Not hare just a lot to take a apart.

Removed top rail, removed front glass panel,Removed door handle brackets, removed door handle from bracket,attached new handle to brackets, attached brackets to door frame, slid front glass into place and reattached top rail. It was a great time to clean the glass.Good Luck

Watched the video and things went exactly as planned. Love this website will use them again when I need a repair.

Followed provided video