CWE9000BDB Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

Pulled range out from cabinet-wall to get to back side, everthing was clearly exposed tlhen. Just a matter of installing new fixture, putting back on, reconnected power source - put range back in proper place.

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

I had to pull out the oven and balance the oven on two patio tables. Remove the back of the oven. Pull out the light assembly which was burnt. I was unable to remove the casing around the light, so I destroyed it with a pliers. Reinstalling the new light and assembly was easy. What made this job difficult, I could not remove the light assembly from the front of the oven and had to go in from the back.

I followed peoples instructions here, and it was not very difficult.

Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole.
Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cable adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.

Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and oven works like new.

Before beginning I made sure electrical current wasn't running to the element. (NOTE: CHECKING FOR A VOLTAGE DROP ACROSS THE ELEMENT IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH). The safest way to do this is to unplug the oven, because otherwise you're going to get a nasty surprise as soon as you touch the exposed wire.

I removed the two screws that anchor the element to the back of the oven. Then I pulled the element out a few inches and disconnected each of the wires attached to the element. These were easy to disconnect because they were quick-disconnect spade type connectors.

Next I got rid of the old element and tried to replace it with the new one, only to notice that the new element and the wires in the rear of the oven both had the female end of the spade connector. Like a total bimbo I'd either ordered the wrong part or just failed to notice what the connectors were supposed to be.

Instead of de-soldering the spade connectors on the element or the oven wires, I made two "spade adaptors" to make the connections compatible. For this I bought a package of spade connectors from Radio Shack and cut two pieces of 16 gauge rebare wire about 1/2" long. I soldered a male spade connector to the end of each rebar piece and then insulated it thoroughly with electrical tape to keep it from grounding out. (NOTE: DO NOT USE DUCT TAPE FOR THIS, ONLY INSULATING ELECTRICAL TAPE WILL DO). The result was two miniature pieces of wire, each with a male spade connector on the end. For lack of a better name, these were my spade adaptors.

When the two spade adaptors were ready, I connected them to the female ends of the wires in the oven, then to the female spade connectors on the new element. I wrapped all the connections in electrical tape to prevent accidental grounding. (NOTE: ELECTRICAL TAPE MELTS SO I KEPT IT FAR AWAY FROM THE ELEMENT.)

Finally I shoved the wires, my spade adaptors, and the ends of the element back into the holes at the rear of the oven and screwed the element back into place using the original screws. After that I turned the oven back on.

Most of the time was spent making the run to Radio Shack and trying to explain to the guy at the front desk what a quick disconnect spade connector is.

After removing two screws, I pulled the bake element free from the oven's female electrical connections---only to find the new element had female connectors, too. Nevertheless, I cut the male connectors off the old bake element and used them as a splice (of sorts). Then installing the new bake element was a piece of cake, which I can make now thanks to PartSelect.com.

A web search led me to Parts Select. Two days later my bake element was installed and my oven was again in bake mode.I'm a 75 yr. old grandmother and installed it myself so that should tell one how easy it is.

Very easy to repair, but you have to be able to pull your stove out. Two screws in the oven and then remove part of back cover of oven and one plug from there. Simple to do, but did not fix our problem. We are waiting repair now from service company as it looks like it needs a control panel. Worth trying yourself to fix the problem. Inexpensive part and easy to install. Also be sure to turn power off your oven to reset the control panel as this may fix the problem - try this first and also after installing new part - like rebooting a computer...