CWE5200ACB Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

I ordered the temperature sensor after watching the video and seeing how easily it could be changed out. Unfortunately, they don't tell you that it may be necessary to access the part from the back. When I tried removing the sensor from inside the oven the connection separated before getting to the hole. I tried for 4 days to try to fish out the other end. Finally, I had my brother help me remove the oven from the wall and take the back off at which time we were able to connect the new sensory. It turns out that the wiring is on the upper right hand corner of the oven and the sensor is on the upper left hand corner and the wiring is rather short. I am a 64 year old female and do the majority of repairs around the house myself, but due to the weight of removing the oven I enlisted the help of my brother. After removing from the wall the rest was a breeze. Just wish the videos or written info on the website was a little more clear as to the different ways of accessing the damaged part.

Turned off power at panel. Removed 2 Phillips screws holding broiler element support in place. Squirted 2 additional Phillips head screws attaching element to back of stove with WD-40 and removed screws. Slid element out to access electrical connection and used short phillips screwdriver to remove. Reattached electrical connection to new element with short screwdriver (no fun as you are cantilevered into the oven and have to hold the element, the screw and the screwdriver to do this). Slid element into support and screwed support to top of stove cavity to align element. Installed screws holding element onto back wall. Turned on power and ran element long enough to dissipate WD-40 fumes.

Repair went fine, insert helped, just take your time and remember the way you took out. Started without takeing door off, I am to short and door comes off easy, unscrew the two screws holding element leaving one not quite off then the back two screws then go back to upper screw remove and element will pull out, remove 3 wires remembering the order, Wiring is a little tricky (in the stove-just 3 plugins), just pay attention and will go smooth. Then remove element and go backwards and presto your done.

Grandson spent 1/2 hour installing unit and 15 minutes of that time was trying to get the very short grounded screw to begin to thread. It was a very small space to work in and it kept falling out. The instructions were a lot to be desired - almost nothing. He went to YouTube and got very explicit instructions. Then he had no problem as to what to do. The unit is working great now.

All went well except for error on instruction sheet.
Ground wire used on earlier Models attached to the ground lug is no longer used?? and should be removed!!! Guess what the ground wire has to be used or the element will not heat up.Soooo someone at the mfg. has no ideal what they are talking about,You have to ground the element or it will not come on.

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

remove two bracket screws, and remove bracket, the remove two mount screws for element. then remove the element. installed the element in reverse order that it was removed.

Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Philips head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.

I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted

Very easy. Didn't have to replace whole unit

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

This was too simple, turned off the power to the oven, undid the two screws, unplugged two wires, plugged wires into the new element, fastened the new screws and turned the power back on. Turned on the oven, what do you know, it works again!

The element did not come with instructions and none were needed.

The trickiest part was making sure that the correct part was ordered. The first attempt was a failure. The seal was too long and the clips were too big.
After finding the correct part it was a breeze.

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis