MER6775BAS Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

PULLED THE POWER CORD!! Loosened a couple of screws holding the element to the rear oven wall, removed the electrical wires (red on left, yellow on right) attached to the baking element, removed old element, inserted new element and reattached the wires respectively thereto. One minor glitch did occur. The RED wire inadvertently slipped back through the hole into the insulation and was not retrievable. I removed the small metal plate housing the wires on the back bottom of the stove, pushed the red wire (plentiful length) back into the oven, reinstalled the plate, connected the red wire to the bake element, reconnected the power, element began to heat. Mission accomplished. One caution: Pay attention to the SHAPE of the failed element before ordering online or buying in person.

See description listed as problem

Had this range for 6 years. My daughter turned on the burner and it went "pop". She was very upset. I found the best price at PartSelect, and ordered the same day.

the first burner arrived broken in the box. We contacted PartSelect, and they immediately sent another and rushed shipping. It arrived in excellent condition.

To replace the unit: First, I turned off the circuit breaker for the range. Then I removed the two Philips screws that held the cooktop down. Next I removed the nut screws holding the burner to the cooktop.

Then I placed the new burner next to the old one, and one by one swapped the wires (this way I was sure I had the right wire on the right connector). One of the wire connectors broke when removing it from the old burner. PartSelect had provided 4 repacement connector pieces (oddly, all of which were too small for the burner element). So I located a replacement connector at a local hardware store. Stripped the end of the wire and used pliers to fasten the new connector.

After all connectors were secured to the new burner, I screwed the burner to the cooktop, then closed the cooktop and secured it with the two screws.

Turned on the circuit breaker, and it works like new! Saved over $100 by doing it myself!

We removed the rear panel, then removed the stove top, then removed the sides. We undid the straps that hold the insulation in place. Pulled out the old insulation and put in the new. Replaced every thing we took off. The nastiest thing was the old insulation full of mouse droppings and even a few dead mice.

Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.

I took the oven door apart, pulled out the broken fragments of glass and replaced it with the new glass. I should have taken notes as I took the door apart because it was a bit tricky to remember how all the pieces fit back together.

I was very impressed with how quickly the parts were shipped and the quality of the packing materials to protect the glass as it was shipped.

Repair was very simple. Took the door apart in layers, replaced the glass and put everything else back. it took longer to clean the stove than it did to actually take it apart and put it back together. guess i didnt need to be that much of a clean freak!

I pulled the range out, unplugged it and removed the back panel with a Phillips-head screwdriver. I then removed the two screws inside the oven that holds the element in place. I located the two wires on the back of the range attached to the element. I gently pulled off the wires using a pliers and then easily removed the burned out element. I put the ends of the replacement element into the respective holes, screwed them in and then plugged the wires back on at the back of the range. After replacing the back panel, I plugged the range back in. I turned the oven on with an oven thermometer inside, to test it out. I imagine I saved at least a couple of hundred dollars for the repair with this simple DIY, if not, the cost of a new double oven range!

not to offend anybody but what i learned on prior posts helped alot..
1. remove unit and unplug.
2. remove door by opening to 45 degree angle and lifting door face towards you.
3. remove back panel to unit.e.
4.unscrew burner element from back inside of oven.
5.gently pry clip off each off burner element from rear of unit. Pull gently towards you.
6.unscrew support from inside oven.
7. remove old element and just reverse directions to reinstall.

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

turn off all electric to the wall oven. removed the old broiler. replaced the new broiler and turned on the electric. checked the brolier one to see if it worked....it did thanks for the customer service for her help in finding the replacement part.

I slide the range out and unplugged it from the outlet. I removed the back of the oven ( 8 screws ) using a cordless drill and phillips bit then with a phillips screwdriver I removed the oven sensor (2 screws) then I installed the new sensor , reinstalled the oven back , plugged the range in , slide it back into place and that was it. This repair took about 10 mins and the oven works perfectly. Thanks !

Removed oven door and rack. Removed two screws holding element. Disconnected wires to element. One of the wires slipped into the back wall of the oven. The range had to be removed from the counter and back panel removed to gain access to the element wires. Install new bake element in upper oven. Connect wires to element spade lugs. Install rear panel. Restore power at circuit breaker panel. Very important - aways disconnect power before starting work.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model