MEW6627BAB Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

Took out two screws, disconnected the old element and replaced with the new one. Very easy - oven was up and running in no time at all.

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

We had a wood tray in the oven (yes i know) and it is a two stacked oven and turned the wrong oven to broil. The fire was put out quickly but the Latch door switch and assembly was damaged.
The 3D breakout of the appliance made it a jiffy to select the correct part numbers. Shipping is very good from Parts Select.
The Front assembly for the lower oven comes out with 6 screws. Disconnect the Door Switch Connector push it out and replace that. The Latch Assembly requires a small wrench. It is a bad design but patience will get you there. Once the assembly is out disconnect electrical connectors. Don't worry each connector is unique I advice do it one for one.
Overall you need a skill of three stars out of five to complete this task

Installed new thermostat. Went well. Now the oven comes on and it takes 2.5 hours to come up to 250 degrees. Help!

Pulled oven door out of oven and and replaced glass.

I removed the old thermostat and replaced it with the new one using the supplied wiring adapter for my model of range. Parts Select made this an easy project. Thanksyou

The sensor inserts into a slot in the back side of the range. By removing screws on the heat shield on the backside of the range, the sensor wires will be exposed can be unplugged. Then remove the screws that attach the sensor to the back inside panel in the oven. Next, pull the old sensor out. The wire leads will get caught on the insulation blanket, no big deal. Reverse the process to install the new sensor. The new sensor comes with two connector sets for the wiring. I did the whole job for less than the cost of a service call.

The hardest part was deciding if this part would fix the problem. The upper oven became unusable. Both elements worked fine until reaching temperature. The oven would not come back on after that. I took two screws out. Then I pulled the wires out and unsnapped the coupling. The install was reverse. I just snapped the coupling in place and replaced the two screws. All works fine now. Saved a couple thousand as wife was prepared to buy a new one.

Watching the video of how to replace the sensor was great help and much appreciated, the only difference was that my wires were much shorter and I had to pull the oven out of the cabinet to get to the back of the oven to release the clip holding the wires together, unlike the video where the man jiggled the wires until the clip holding the wires together came through the little slot where the probe is attached, otherwise it was pretty simple, just a few extra steps to pull the oven forward to get to the rear to release the clip holding the wires together. Once I was able to release the clip I used one of the 2 adapters that was sent with the sensor probe and attached them after putting the wires through the hole where the probe was attached first then replaced the 2 screws that holds the sensor in place, slid the oven back in and turned the circuit breaker back on and it works perfectly. The video gave me the confidence to do this job though and I thank PartSelect very much for being a great company to help with videos and sending the parts so quickly.

Disconnected power pulled oven from wall, removed 8 screws from back, unplugged sensor, removed old, attached new, put screws back wow saved me $500. From buying new and $150. For service call

Remove sensor from oven. Disconnected wire from back. Connected new sensor and reinstalled. Temps now stay stable.

Removed two screws holding oven sensor in place. Haad to remove part of the back to access wires. Found existing wires had burnt up, and had to reterminate same. Installed new sensor, making sure the leads did not come in contact with the rear of oven compartment. (This may have been what caused failure to begin with)

Parts package contained no instructions. Found all instructions on internet. I used Phillips head to remove two screws on anchor plate of Long Oven Sensor. Located at upper left, back corner of oven; access to screws is not simple/easy. Screws back out w/o difficulty. Pull/extract sensor harness through hole[back of oven] which required pushing aside insulation. The harness barely fits thru hole in oven back metal wall; I recommend using needle nose pliers ( which I ended up doing ) for ease of extraction. Disconnect harness plastic interlok clips. Perfect reconnection of new clip harness with ease. Reverse procedure to complete installation/repair. Done in just over 35 minutes due to wrestling with harness extraction through minimal hole opening. Failure occurred on Thanksgiving Day with 22lbs turkey in oven. Top of turkey contacted sensor tip which eventually caused sensor fault; result was scorched upper breast and oven shut down [safety by design]. Cook top was still operative; clock and all readings on digital control panel ceased. With new 'long oven sensor' installed - good as new. Will be sure to buy turkey(s) under 20lbs in future. Jim in Seattle

First we disconnected power to the oven. Then we removed the two screws that attached the oven control panel cover to the body of the oven. Next we removed the screws that secured the faulty clock assembly to the control panel. Then we un-installed the three cable/connectors. The two wire cable/connectors were simple pull-outs. But with no instructions in either the Users Manual or shipped with the replacement part, we had no idea how to un-install the ribbon cable. Fifteen minutes later, much trial and error, and simple blind luck, we finally realized that we simply had to lift up the connector ears and the ribbon cable would disengage. Then it was a simple matter of seating the replacement assembly, installing the two screws, re-installing the three cables, reseating the control panel cover and re-installing the cover screws. Once power was restored to the oven, the clock was reset. We tested the oven temperature and the timer. All was well once again.
Question: Would you like us to return the faulty Jenn-Air part for trouble-shooting?
Recommendation for the future: Send some simple installation instructions. We both have computer manufacturing asembling experience but never worked with a ribbon cable connector like this one. That connector was a major stumbling block for us. A simple changeout turned into a 30+ battle.
But, I would like to thank you for the quick shipment of this part. It was ordered on a Monday and received in Wednesday's mail. That so FAST! and very much appreciated.
Your website is now in my Favorites and in my email address book. Thank you once again for all your help.
Sharon Hall
133 Lake View Drive
Spicewood, TX 78669
830 693-4513
[email protected]

I watched the video, which was very helpful...the temperature sensor was hard to pull through the small opening in the upper back left oven corner. On the back wall of the oven was a large removable circle, so I unscrewed that piece and was able to gain access to the wires attached to the temperature sensor and push it through the small opening. I used one of the new connectors, pushed it back through the small opening, screwed it back onto the oven wall, replaced the circle opening and tried the oven again...unfortunately, there was no improvement in oven temperature! My JennAir wall oven is about 17 years old, and I thought I would try this $30 repair prior to purchasing a new wall oven, but it looks like I will have to do some overtime and buy a new oven. Any other suggestions would be welcome.