MEW6530DDQ Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

I slide the oven out from the counter and unpluged it. I removed all the oven racks. I then removed the machine screws that held the sheet metal that covered the back of the unit. This made it a lot easier to disconnect the long oven sensor wire and put the wire through the insulation. I removed the two screws on the inside of the oven that held the sensor onto the inside rear wall of the oven. The old sensor did not test too bad but the temperature is reaching the set temperature. I still had to adjust the oven temp up ten degrees using the control panel. I have learned that it takes a few cycles of the element going off and on during the warming to reach the desired set temperature. One more issue is that the buzzer goes off signaling that the set temperature has been reached when it has not. When I set it for 350 F the buzzerr goes off at 280 F and I have a good oven thermometer. I own three oven thermometers and they all read the same. We use to have nothing but Maytag appliances but no more. We have had issues with Maytag front loading washers and ranges. PartSelect is great. Good prices and fast delivery.

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

Installed new thermostat. Went well. Now the oven comes on and it takes 2.5 hours to come up to 250 degrees. Help!

Took the door apart and replaced the hinge, very easy

I see that I bought these parts almost two months ago, but I didn't have time to do the repair until last night. Last night, I couldn't get the door off. Maytag said to put it in the broil position and pull straight up. No go. I couldn't figure out what was holding it. I pulled on it several times but I have enough repair experience to know: DON'T FORCE IT. So, I looked all over on websites. Then, late last night I noticed two chrome brackets (nowhere mentioned) with a single screw on each. I removed those brackets and out came the door. It was past my bedtime. This afternoon, I took apart the door and cleaned it. Then, I put the handle on consistent with the diagram and noticed that the new handle REQUIRES A SHEET METAL SCREW, not a machine screw, as I had ordered. So, I measured the hole with a drill guide and used a wooden match as a depth gauge and got screws and washers that fit tight from Lowes. After that, it took a half hour to get it back together. It works fine now. . I originally installed this oven myself, too.

The thermocouple was suspect. It should be super easy- two screws, but the wiring harness would not pull through on my oven. I confirmed the procedure with the PartSelect video which is good. The harness was caught and broke so I had to pull the oven out partially to get to the harness. The sensor did check bad on the multimeter (resistance too high- Google it, I did) so I ordered the part. Once the new part was installed the oven still did not function. So I had to get busy with the multimeter and pull the oven again. On the back of my oven near the wire to the bake element is a Hi Limit Switch which cuts off the bake element if the outside of the oven gets above the preset temperature. Mine was cracked and faulty and had to be replaced. The oven works great now.

We watched the video demo & followed it step by step. The project took about 35 minutes and we replaced the hinge on each side of the oven. First we removed the oven from the wall, then dismantled it & cleaned it thoroughly, removed the old hinges and replaced with new ones. the only problem we had was that the pin holding the hinge open was missing on one of the hinges, but we cut a nail and inserted it to hold the hinge open. The job was completed quickly, and the oven door fits and works well. Thanks for the video--it really helped us.

I watched the youtube video that was provided by this website on my computer while doing this repair step by step. It was a snap!

The oven did not auto clean. Problem was the sensor stopped working. Tried to repair from the front but could not get the connector through the hole. Removed the rear panel and found the connector had melted. Could not find a new wireing harnes on line, so I cut the wires on the stove and the new sensor coupling. Spliced the wires togather. The oven cooks fine, I have not tried the cleaning cycle yet.

Remove sensor from oven. Disconnected wire from back. Connected new sensor and reinstalled. Temps now stay stable.

Removed two screws holding oven sensor in place. Haad to remove part of the back to access wires. Found existing wires had burnt up, and had to reterminate same. Installed new sensor, making sure the leads did not come in contact with the rear of oven compartment. (This may have been what caused failure to begin with)

Removed the back of the stove, un-pluged the sensor wires, removed the sensor from inside the oven. installed the new sensor, pluged in the wires, and replaced the back of the stove. A phillips screwdriver was the only tool needed.

I had repair men replace the door hinges 2times and decided the 3rd time to do it myself and save some $. ordering was a chinch, received the parts in 2 days and followed instructions posted on this site. They were excellent. Just a few things I would stress: Lift UP the door to remove, not open the door fully and pull out and also make sure to take the small pins out of the new hinges before closing. They are so small you could over look them. The person who put detailed instructions on this site is to be commended for clarity and detail on "How To" I really appreciated it.

Replaced oven gasket and both oven hinges. Repairs did not work. Oven door is actually worst. Do not waste your time replacing the oven hinges unless they are actually broken. When to Ace hardware and bought a package of 3 super magnets for about $10. Practice placing the magnets on metal strip on outside of the actual oven vs the oven door. This metal strip is not galvanized for which the oven cleaning latch goes through. Appeared to solve the problem. I then used epoxy glue to insure the super magnets would permanently stay in place. These are dangerous magnets that must be kept away from children and pets. You will spend more time separating these magnets from each other than gluing them in place. This part I will let you figure out but the only way to separate the 3 magnets from each other is the slide them, one at a time, from each other. Now I am awaiting 4 to 6 hours for the epoxy to cure. Best of luck. Jeff

The problem was that you must release locking devices on each of the two hinges to lift the door off the oven.One of the feedback items mentioned releasing the locks but it was not apparent how to release these locking items.