MEW6627BAQ Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

put back together with parts ordered. Parts arrived in 2 days!!!! and saved my large dinner party the following day from being ruined. Thank you so much for your parts inventory and for Jenn Air supplying only the part needed and not the entire door. It was a life saver!

Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole.
Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cable adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.

Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and oven works like new.

Removed upper cabinet doors. TURN OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER. Removed 4 screws holding control panel cover. Slid cover up and off. Disconnected 3 sets of wires. Removed old clock assembly, and replaced with new. Hooked up 3 sets of wires. Slid cover back on, attached screws.
Flipped circuit breaker - it worked!

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

The digital clock was a snape to install but the long oven sensor required installation from the back. This means removing the double oven from the cabinet. I'm saving this repair for the installation of new cabinets.

Removed screws holding in control panel. Replaced clock assembly following instructions listed by others. Easy. Wife happy.

As per instructions on the web, removed 3 screws to get round metal plate out to get to wires, removed 2 screws to get element out, it was a breeze.

Control panel was responsive however oven would not heat up. I Replaced sensor with one of the adapters and oven is now working again.

7 minutes to turn off the breaker - unscrew the old element, pull out the old element attach the new element and rescrew. 10 minutes to replace the broken bulb since the base was left without the glass bulb to turn.

Our oven quit working again. I called the repair(dealer) man and he said we needed a new control panel. It would cost $180.00 and labor would be $60. The total repair would be $240.00. We considered just purchasing a new one. It is a slide-in range and they start at about $1500. So I began looking for a control panel on line. I found your web site and entered what was wrong with the oven. Your site suggested we try replacing the oven sensor. There was a video that showed how simple the repair was. We ordered the part. It came quickly and I immediately made the repair (about 10 min). I was very disappointed that it did not work. I went back to you web site and tried the next option. It was a terminal block for only $20.00. I didn't even know what a terminal block was, what it looked like or where on the range to find it. But I went again to your video and I learned quickly what to do. I ordered the part and it came in two days. I made the repair in about 15 min. My wife was very happy that the repair worked. Our total cost was about $80. The $240 quote would not have fixed the oven anyway. The repairman was wrong. I was very happy with the results and the money we saved.. Good Job PartSelect and thanks.

I slide the oven out from the counter and unpluged it. I removed all the oven racks. I then removed the machine screws that held the sheet metal that covered the back of the unit. This made it a lot easier to disconnect the long oven sensor wire and put the wire through the insulation. I removed the two screws on the inside of the oven that held the sensor onto the inside rear wall of the oven. The old sensor did not test too bad but the temperature is reaching the set temperature. I still had to adjust the oven temp up ten degrees using the control panel. I have learned that it takes a few cycles of the element going off and on during the warming to reach the desired set temperature. One more issue is that the buzzer goes off signaling that the set temperature has been reached when it has not. When I set it for 350 F the buzzerr goes off at 280 F and I have a good oven thermometer. I own three oven thermometers and they all read the same. We use to have nothing but Maytag appliances but no more. We have had issues with Maytag front loading washers and ranges. PartSelect is great. Good prices and fast delivery.

Built in so removed 4 screws underneath display and lifted up (was a little tricky because of cabnet doors above)removed 2 plug in connectors and put unit on counter top. to remove ribbon connector push in on tabs on both sides, lightly pull up ribbon (the wider part of connector will come up about a 32nd of an inch and the ribbon will pull away from that, there are two small protusions on the connector that capture two holes in the ribbon) once you figure that out its a simple job.

Removed frame to cabinet lag screws
Slid oven out of cabinet (required because wire harness could not be pulled through inside of oven)
Removed two screws holding attaching sensor inside oven
Uncoupled wire harness
Installed new sensor in reverse order

Unfortunately, neither the new bake element or sensor fixed the problem, so I just ordered the more expensive control board -- hope that does it.

Thanks for the hint from this forum.
My display became very dimm, eventually unreadable.
WIth suggestion from this forum, I replaced the Electronic Clock assembly. I took me about 15 minutes. The display works perfectly fine and makes the oven look like new with its nice bright digits.
BJ