MEW6630BAQ Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

I contacted a local appliance repair store who didn't know what I was talking about. I looked online and the store called me back to tell me the part would probably be $75.00. I took the broken part out of the door frame and found the exact part online at your site, and ordered it for $14.00. Received the part within 2 days and put it in in 10 minutes.

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

My wife help take the door off. It was a little heavy . The door came apart very easy and went back the same way.We save over $300 by doing it our selfs.

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

I opened the top oven. Then unscrewed the screws below the display unit. Took off the attaching wires. Unscrewed the broken display. Screwed the new display back on. Re-attached the wires. Screwed the support screws back on. It took about 10 minutes.

The only "difficulty" was in removing the wires. One of them is attached in a pressure attachment which isn't immediately obvious (that's the largest attachment in the center). Just be careful when taking that one out.

(1) Turn off power;
(2) remove 4 phillips screws on the bottom of the control panel (top of the oven door) to allow the control panel to rotate up and out;
(3) remove 2 electrical connectors by releasing locks then pull/wiggle free. (note the cable locks to help orient reassembly) You can now carry the control panel to the kitchen table to continue.
(4) This was a little tricky for my big hands: remove the switch / controls ribbon cable by depressing small tabs inward then releasing a small wedge which squeezes the ribbon into the connector. Gently unhook and separate the ribbon cable from the display module.
(5) remove 4 hex-head screws which mount the clock panel to the control panel assembly.
(6) reverse procedure to reassemble & test.

Took out 7 screws. Removed front panel, unhooking ribbon cables. Used nut driver to remove old display from the panel and then install new display. Replaced the 7 screws.

Turned off power to oven. Unscrewed panel to expose digital board. Disconnected wire plugs. Removed digital board. Replaced new board and reconnected plugs. It really was that easy...

removed the trim bezel housing the controls and clock assy, by removing 3ea phillips head screws on top and 4ea screws on the bottom of the trim bezel. disconnected the wiring harnesses. removed the 4 screws securing the LCD assy to the bezel. Repeated the process in reverse for installing replacement unit. Very simple. One note: Always shut off power to the appliance from the breaker panel. it will ensure proper reset of the panel when the power is turned back on. this is a procedure a 10 year old could handle. very simple and no electrical experience necessary. Saved myself at least $300 for a few minutes of my time....

Remove phillips screws from below upper face cover. Unclip wire connections. Use nut driver to remove Electronic display. Reverse operation. Careful on reattachment of flat wires to plastic clip. The explanation from other customers made this very easy.

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Philips head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.

I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!