MEW6627BAW Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

Part was perfect fit. Good product, good value, great service.

I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.

removed the trim bezel housing the controls and clock assy, by removing 3ea phillips head screws on top and 4ea screws on the bottom of the trim bezel. disconnected the wiring harnesses. removed the 4 screws securing the LCD assy to the bezel. Repeated the process in reverse for installing replacement unit. Very simple. One note: Always shut off power to the appliance from the breaker panel. it will ensure proper reset of the panel when the power is turned back on. this is a procedure a 10 year old could handle. very simple and no electrical experience necessary. Saved myself at least $300 for a few minutes of my time....

Took out 7 screws. Removed front panel, unhooking ribbon cables. Used nut driver to remove old display from the panel and then install new display. Replaced the 7 screws.

Remove phillips screws from below upper face cover. Unclip wire connections. Use nut driver to remove Electronic display. Reverse operation. Careful on reattachment of flat wires to plastic clip. The explanation from other customers made this very easy.

Really straight forward. Removed 4 screws on panel and 4 srews holding circuit board, unsnapped ribben connectors and replaced.

(1) Turn off power;
(2) remove 4 phillips screws on the bottom of the control panel (top of the oven door) to allow the control panel to rotate up and out;
(3) remove 2 electrical connectors by releasing locks then pull/wiggle free. (note the cable locks to help orient reassembly) You can now carry the control panel to the kitchen table to continue.
(4) This was a little tricky for my big hands: remove the switch / controls ribbon cable by depressing small tabs inward then releasing a small wedge which squeezes the ribbon into the connector. Gently unhook and separate the ribbon cable from the display module.
(5) remove 4 hex-head screws which mount the clock panel to the control panel assembly.
(6) reverse procedure to reassemble & test.

I opened the top oven. Then unscrewed the screws below the display unit. Took off the attaching wires. Unscrewed the broken display. Screwed the new display back on. Re-attached the wires. Screwed the support screws back on. It took about 10 minutes.

The only "difficulty" was in removing the wires. One of them is attached in a pressure attachment which isn't immediately obvious (that's the largest attachment in the center). Just be careful when taking that one out.

First we cut the power from the double ovens. Then we removed the two screws holding the panel in place. We just had to unplug three different cords from the electronic panel, then switch it with the new one. We reconnected all the wires, screwed the panel back in, turned the power back on and the electronic panel was glowing brightly. What an easy repair job that saved us hundreds of dollars! Partselect.com, we love you! THANKS SO MUCH!

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

Turned off power to oven. Unscrewed panel to expose digital board. Disconnected wire plugs. Removed digital board. Replaced new board and reconnected plugs. It really was that easy...

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.