MEW6530BAC Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

Parts package contained no instructions. Found all instructions on internet. I used Phillips head to remove two screws on anchor plate of Long Oven Sensor. Located at upper left, back corner of oven; access to screws is not simple/easy. Screws back out w/o difficulty. Pull/extract sensor harness through hole[back of oven] which required pushing aside insulation. The harness barely fits thru hole in oven back metal wall; I recommend using needle nose pliers ( which I ended up doing ) for ease of extraction. Disconnect harness plastic interlok clips. Perfect reconnection of new clip harness with ease. Reverse procedure to complete installation/repair. Done in just over 35 minutes due to wrestling with harness extraction through minimal hole opening. Failure occurred on Thanksgiving Day with 22lbs turkey in oven. Top of turkey contacted sensor tip which eventually caused sensor fault; result was scorched upper breast and oven shut down [safety by design]. Cook top was still operative; clock and all readings on digital control panel ceased. With new 'long oven sensor' installed - good as new. Will be sure to buy turkey(s) under 20lbs in future. Jim in Seattle

The thermocouple was suspect. It should be super easy- two screws, but the wiring harness would not pull through on my oven. I confirmed the procedure with the PartSelect video which is good. The harness was caught and broke so I had to pull the oven out partially to get to the harness. The sensor did check bad on the multimeter (resistance too high- Google it, I did) so I ordered the part. Once the new part was installed the oven still did not function. So I had to get busy with the multimeter and pull the oven again. On the back of my oven near the wire to the bake element is a Hi Limit Switch which cuts off the bake element if the outside of the oven gets above the preset temperature. Mine was cracked and faulty and had to be replaced. The oven works great now.

Slowly disassemled door from outside in. This included removing the section below the door to access the screws that were inserted vertically into the bottom of the door. There are hex screws and phillips head. There were several pieces of glass in the door that had to be removed to get to the inner glass. We finally lifted out a frame that held the broken piece and one other. Working on a flat surface we unlatched a small tab in one corner (pliers) and unwrapped frame just enough to release broken sheet. Wearing gloves we removed all the broken glass and gently inserted new piece. Realigning the other piece of glass we gently closed the frame reinserting the tab of metal and securing. Would HAVE to have two people to do this! We then reassembled the door reversing the process. Note: It is a SMALL hex screw.

I watched the video, which was very helpful...the temperature sensor was hard to pull through the small opening in the upper back left oven corner. On the back wall of the oven was a large removable circle, so I unscrewed that piece and was able to gain access to the wires attached to the temperature sensor and push it through the small opening. I used one of the new connectors, pushed it back through the small opening, screwed it back onto the oven wall, replaced the circle opening and tried the oven again...unfortunately, there was no improvement in oven temperature! My JennAir wall oven is about 17 years old, and I thought I would try this $30 repair prior to purchasing a new wall oven, but it looks like I will have to do some overtime and buy a new oven. Any other suggestions would be welcome.

I ordered the temperature sensor after watching the video and seeing how easily it could be changed out. Unfortunately, they don't tell you that it may be necessary to access the part from the back. When I tried removing the sensor from inside the oven the connection separated before getting to the hole. I tried for 4 days to try to fish out the other end. Finally, I had my brother help me remove the oven from the wall and take the back off at which time we were able to connect the new sensory. It turns out that the wiring is on the upper right hand corner of the oven and the sensor is on the upper left hand corner and the wiring is rather short. I am a 64 year old female and do the majority of repairs around the house myself, but due to the weight of removing the oven I enlisted the help of my brother. After removing from the wall the rest was a breeze. Just wish the videos or written info on the website was a little more clear as to the different ways of accessing the damaged part.

I followed the online video at Jennair.com. The repair was easy and I saved quite a bit of money. I was quoted a price of $534.00 to replace the door hinges, I did it for $96.00 including overnight shipping chargers. I am a very happy lady.

Turned off breaker,opened door with bent coat hanger by sliding right to left the coat hanger to open the door, remover 2 screws holding in the sensor in upper left corner of the oven. Remove the sensor (gently) with the wire connection from back of oven pulling sensor out a out 8 inches . Disconnect plug. Install new sensor with matched harness /.connection, installed 2 screws ,turned on breaker.

Followed provided video

removed 2 screws in probe and pulled it out.had to take back off as wire was tangled from factory and couldn't do quick repair

Replace the oven sensor per the excelent easy video you provided

Removed oven door (slides out). Removed side and bottom screws from frame and slid new glass into place. screwed in the 8(or so) screws.

Opened oven door. Inserted a small bent nail into the small holes on the hinge. This locks the hinge from closing all the way. Removed the chrome hinge retaining plates. One at each hinge. Lifted the door off the oven. Laid door on towel. Removed 3 screws from the top of door, three screws from the bottom of door. This allows you to separate the two pieces of the door. Clean all glass surfaces, including the ones under the middle glass panel. Removed 1 screw from each hinge at bottom of door. Pull hinge from bottom of door after removing screws. Insert new spring at top of door first, replace retaining screw. Realign the two door parts and replace all screws. Set door back on hinge pocket. Be careful to insure that the hinge seats into the pocket. Open door just enough to replace retaining plates. Process was easy, but it did not fix the problem completely. Bought heavy magnets from hardware store and installed them inside the door. This with the new hinge fixed the problem.

I replaced the oven sensor which was easy to replace. A pigtail wire was provided with the sensor which is intended to be installed first so you don't have to reach around the front and back of the oven at the same time. The replacement was easy. However, that turned out not to be the problem. The real problem was the maytag electronic clock control timer, temperature control unit. The part number is 7601P177-60. This device has been discontinued and I was fortunate enough to find the part at a local supplier. Once I replaced this, the problem went away. The oven heats up normally. My original symptom was that when setting the oven temperature to something like 350 degrees, the display would rapidly report heating up the oven to that temperature, and the oven was only mildly warm. If you have that symptom, it is probably not the oven sensor. It is the electronic clock unit. Hope you can find one. If you can't, I think you need to by a new oven. Regards

I removed the old sensor via the two screws holding it in, unplugged it and replaced it with a new one.

The "PartsSelect" General discription of the parts funtion helped me to confirm my suspitions that there was some form of temperature registering problem. I whatched the short video they provided on how to change the part out, even though, in this case, it's pretty self explanitory.The part was in my hands a day erlier than promised and in reality, much earlier than I had anticipated from the beginng. It took me all total, 20 minutes to exchange the part out and have the oven in operation again.