9895VRV Magic Chef Wall Oven - Instructions

Removed the oven from the wall. Removed back cover and unplugged sensor from the harness. Remove and replace sensor from inside the oven. Reconnect harness and reinstall back cover. Secure oven back into the wall.

Before beginning I made sure electrical current wasn't running to the element. (NOTE: CHECKING FOR A VOLTAGE DROP ACROSS THE ELEMENT IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH). The safest way to do this is to unplug the oven, because otherwise you're going to get a nasty surprise as soon as you touch the exposed wire.

I removed the two screws that anchor the element to the back of the oven. Then I pulled the element out a few inches and disconnected each of the wires attached to the element. These were easy to disconnect because they were quick-disconnect spade type connectors.

Next I got rid of the old element and tried to replace it with the new one, only to notice that the new element and the wires in the rear of the oven both had the female end of the spade connector. Like a total bimbo I'd either ordered the wrong part or just failed to notice what the connectors were supposed to be.

Instead of de-soldering the spade connectors on the element or the oven wires, I made two "spade adaptors" to make the connections compatible. For this I bought a package of spade connectors from Radio Shack and cut two pieces of 16 gauge rebare wire about 1/2" long. I soldered a male spade connector to the end of each rebar piece and then insulated it thoroughly with electrical tape to keep it from grounding out. (NOTE: DO NOT USE DUCT TAPE FOR THIS, ONLY INSULATING ELECTRICAL TAPE WILL DO). The result was two miniature pieces of wire, each with a male spade connector on the end. For lack of a better name, these were my spade adaptors.

When the two spade adaptors were ready, I connected them to the female ends of the wires in the oven, then to the female spade connectors on the new element. I wrapped all the connections in electrical tape to prevent accidental grounding. (NOTE: ELECTRICAL TAPE MELTS SO I KEPT IT FAR AWAY FROM THE ELEMENT.)

Finally I shoved the wires, my spade adaptors, and the ends of the element back into the holes at the rear of the oven and screwed the element back into place using the original screws. After that I turned the oven back on.

Most of the time was spent making the run to Radio Shack and trying to explain to the guy at the front desk what a quick disconnect spade connector is.

After trying to set the bake temp after the self cleaning, it would not heat up. I Googled the model number,selected your link because it mentioned my symptom,and said usually it is the temp sensor in the oven that gets damaged by the high self cleaning heat. Your site had a place to enter my model number. You provided a great exploded view of the parts, showing me my sensor,then you provided the part number of the kit i needed,and filled out the order form with payment method. Less than a week later I got my part with instructions. Your video showed me the two screws I remove from the front ,and I pulled the old part out and uplugged it's connector. Replacement was easy, and oven was fixed! Thank you for a great site! You held my hand through it all!

Replaced the long Oven Sensor but have not resolved the root problem. Oven still will not reach required temperature. Bottom element becomes red hot, but turns off and will not start again.

Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.

Easy in and out, just two screws and two wires. Only additional work was that my oven had female spades on the wires and so did the new element. Took a couple of extra minutes to change out the spades on the oven connections. Then it was slide the connectors together, re-attach the two holding screws and the oven was fully functional.

First replacement element came in bent, Parts Select shipped and replaced it immediately!

easily pulled old seal out and push new seal in place simple and quick.

Once I saw the spring clips on the new door seal, it was easy to understadn how to remove the old seal and install the new one. Looks nice !

Removed screws on each end of element, pulled off spade connectors, did everything in reverse for new element.

The only notable fact was that the old element was hot, as in carrying AC current, despite the stove being off and it being broken, and I found out the usual way.

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

I ordered the only part that looked like it would fit. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. But the new replacement had the wrong ends to fit right. I was going to email you back to see if there were other options for me, when a friend came by and said he would just replace the oven connecting ends and then it would work. Luckily he had extra little ends at home, came over and replaced the ends, cutting the old ones off of the oven side. He wire stripped the wire, attached the new ends and crimped and then reattatched the whole heating element. Without his know-how, I would have had to have a repair man come and do the same thing for me, or go buy a new stove.....but it is simple when you know how!! It would have been helpful to me, to have the description of the ends of the new element I was buying..... whether it was male or female... but it is fixed now, thanks to my friend. A steak dinner was cheaper than a repair man!!!!

Very simple process of diagnosing. Toughest part was finding the part. Part Select mad it very easy, inexpensive and great service and delivery right on time. What a great site. Will always come here first.

Removed frame to cabinet lag screws
Slid oven out of cabinet (required because wire harness could not be pulled through inside of oven)
Removed two screws holding attaching sensor inside oven
Uncoupled wire harness
Installed new sensor in reverse order

Unfortunately, neither the new bake element or sensor fixed the problem, so I just ordered the more expensive control board -- hope that does it.

First of all called my local appliance stores and was told that no one had parts because the range was too old. My husband was adamant that we needed a new stove. After much searching found a part on your site. The repair was soo easy a mere woman can do it. Required a screw driver and patiently taking the door apart. Could have been done faster if I had not cleaned everything back to new condition. Easy repair. . . Awesome service from your company!

First off, because of weather delays, it took FedEx 8 days to deliver part, finally had to drive 3 miles out our road to meet driver.
The connectors were females on the new part as were the connectors in the range. Had to cut off oven connectors and replace with males. Fortunately, I had the connectors (not supplied) and knew how to attach them.