9835XVB Magic Chef Wall Oven - Instructions

Husband got on partselect.com and read reviews, we ordered a long oven sensor kit. When it came in the mail, I took it out and look at it, decided I could probably switch the part.... and so I did. Easy Breezy ... and it worked well

very easy

Our oven quit working again. I called the repair(dealer) man and he said we needed a new control panel. It would cost $180.00 and labor would be $60. The total repair would be $240.00. We considered just purchasing a new one. It is a slide-in range and they start at about $1500. So I began looking for a control panel on line. I found your web site and entered what was wrong with the oven. Your site suggested we try replacing the oven sensor. There was a video that showed how simple the repair was. We ordered the part. It came quickly and I immediately made the repair (about 10 min). I was very disappointed that it did not work. I went back to you web site and tried the next option. It was a terminal block for only $20.00. I didn't even know what a terminal block was, what it looked like or where on the range to find it. But I went again to your video and I learned quickly what to do. I ordered the part and it came in two days. I made the repair in about 15 min. My wife was very happy that the repair worked. Our total cost was about $80. The $240 quote would not have fixed the oven anyway. The repairman was wrong. I was very happy with the results and the money we saved.. Good Job PartSelect and thanks.

Screwed in light bulb and glass protector

Removed old element and element gasket. Replaced both by alining gasket with element and screwing in retaining screws. Jod completed.

Control panel was responsive however oven would not heat up. I Replaced sensor with one of the adapters and oven is now working again.

The part arrived promptly and as described. I had already unscrewed the bad coil so it was easy to just put the new one back in on the open sockets. I then put the top support plate through the element and quickly screwed it back on.

I slide the oven out from the counter and unpluged it. I removed all the oven racks. I then removed the machine screws that held the sheet metal that covered the back of the unit. This made it a lot easier to disconnect the long oven sensor wire and put the wire through the insulation. I removed the two screws on the inside of the oven that held the sensor onto the inside rear wall of the oven. The old sensor did not test too bad but the temperature is reaching the set temperature. I still had to adjust the oven temp up ten degrees using the control panel. I have learned that it takes a few cycles of the element going off and on during the warming to reach the desired set temperature. One more issue is that the buzzer goes off signaling that the set temperature has been reached when it has not. When I set it for 350 F the buzzerr goes off at 280 F and I have a good oven thermometer. I own three oven thermometers and they all read the same. We use to have nothing but Maytag appliances but no more. We have had issues with Maytag front loading washers and ranges. PartSelect is great. Good prices and fast delivery.

Removed frame to cabinet lag screws
Slid oven out of cabinet (required because wire harness could not be pulled through inside of oven)
Removed two screws holding attaching sensor inside oven
Uncoupled wire harness
Installed new sensor in reverse order

Unfortunately, neither the new bake element or sensor fixed the problem, so I just ordered the more expensive control board -- hope that does it.

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

Installed new thermostat. Went well. Now the oven comes on and it takes 2.5 hours to come up to 250 degrees. Help!

Couldn't get oven to slide all the way out of cabinet. Disconnected electrical (first threw correct circuit breaker), then slid oven out. Removed applicable parts to get to the hinges. Later realized the oven WOULD slide all the way out of cabinet WITHOUT disconnecting electrical. Once oven was slide out far enough from cabinet, oven door hinges were easily accessable and it each hinge only had two screws.

Turn off the breaker. Remove the two screws holding the bake element and disconnect the two wires. Plug the new element in and re install the screws. Trip the breaker back on and test the oven. It works.

Turned power off by switching off the breaker. Removed both racks from oven. Removed two Phillips head screws at back of oven securing the old heat element. Pulled old heat element forward about four inches exposing the two power wires connected to it. Removed the wires from their connectors. Removed old element. Connected new element to power wires and pushed it back in place. Replaced new Phillips head screws. Replaced racks, and turned power back on. Oven was fixed in less than five minutes. Disposed of old element. Life is good.

Followed provided video