91FA-3KX Magic Chef Wall Oven - Instructions

open oven door remove bottom tray pull off two screws unplug wire remove old part install new part

I removed the oven door and floor, removed the two screws holding the old part in place, unplugged it from the wiring harness and plugged in the new part and replaced the screws. Fixed in 5 minutes.

Pulled out the plug, pulled out the stove, removed the oven door, pulled out the lower shelf and racks. Used a nutdriver to remove the 2 screws from the bracket, disconnected the old ignitor, new ignitor was an exact replacement, put back in the screws, pushed back the stove and plugged it back in....Was back in business in a matter of seconds!!

I removed the various trays and racks to gain access to the oven igniter. I removed the one screw that held the wiring in place that goes into the body of the oven and pulled out the wires. I removed the wire nuts and safe ended the hot wires. I removed the two screws that held the igniter in place and replaced it with the new one. I reconnected the wiring with the wire nuts , pushed the wiring back into the body of the and stuffed new packing material into hole and reattached the plate on the back of the oven. Turned on the oven and it ignited immediately. A very easy job to complete. I would suggest to others to turn off the power. I knew what I was doing by working it "hot".

The Just Answer website answer felt certain that the igniter was the problem, and hence I ordered a new igniter.
I removed the oven bottom plate and the cover over the valve connection to get an overview of the job. Was really not necessary. Actual repair was only to remove the two screws holding the igniter, pull the cord to get to the connector, and switch igniters. Then put everything back together again. Job done. Oven works great.

My husband took the plastic cover off and took out old bulb and screwed in the new one. Then put the cover back on.

We replaced Flat Style Oven Igniter simply by removing the oven racks, then removed the bottom of the oven. Used a Philips screwdriver to remove the old igniter, placed new one in. The wires to the oven from the ingniter just needed to be in a clip. Tightened the screws and replaced bottom & racks. Oven worked wonderful after this, like a brand new oven!

2 screws easy to remove and plug in the wire. job done.

Removed the two screws that support the hot surface igniter. Removed the rear cover to disconnect the igniters wire harness and removed old igniter. Installed replacement igniter by fastening with the old screws and sending the plug harness through the ovens rear opening. Connected igniter into the harness and installed the rear cover.

Remove lower pan. This is tricky -- pull clips at the back of the pan forward (they may stick), Then push pan to back and lift forward portion up, exposing igniter and gas tube. Use nut driver or socket set to unscrew the two mounting screws. Had to use pliers at one point to pull on screws while turning as they were cross-threaded, perhaps due to heat. Cut wires to igniter. Pull out oven and look at exterior back of stove -- at bottom near the center opening. The power feeder wires to the igniter are red and terminate in a jack -- disconnect the igniter plug connector and pull the cut wire through. Back to the inside of the stove: you now have to force the connector for the new igniter through the insulation at the back. Pull some of the old insulation out to make this possible -- new insulation is provided in the kit. Then at back of stove connect new igniter plug to power feed jack. Then screw in new igniter with the original screws. I had to use pliers again while turning to force them past the cross-threaded area. Replace bottom pan and you are in business, saving a lot of money!!

First, I removed the racks, door, bottom drawer, and lifted the bottom pan up and out from the rear. Then, I unscrewed the bottom cover for the electrical stuff (under where the drawer is) as this is where the connector for the igniter is. I did a voltage test on the oven side of the connector, finding voltage there I removed the igniter by removing the 2 screws holding it to the burner. (pack lunch for that part, they will be rusted, I used a mini grinder to cut off the heads). Then I pulled the connector through the hole, and installed new igniter using self drilling screws. After i repacked the insulation, I put it back together, and it lit right up. The failed one had a bad ballast, confirmed by a continuity test.

I removed the old igniter, held in place with two screws, pulled the wiring out to get to the clip, and undid the clip. Clipped the new igniter to the wires, pushed back into the hole at the back of the oven, installed the igniter with the two screws, and fires just like new! I had a loose wire on the old igniter and hassled with that for years because I didn't realize how easy the fix was.

I was worried over the fact that my oven was filling up with propane but taking a long time to light. One day it didn't light for over ten minutes. I shut it off and put the still frozen pizza back in the freezer. That's it, I thought. I'm not going to use the oven again until it's fixed.

I looked online and ordered the part. It came within two days time,even though it was a weekend during the holiday season. My husband spent about 15 minutes with his head in the oven and then said it was fixed.

I baked several batches of Christmas cookies and three coffee cakes the next day.

My brother-in-law did the repair as I am a scardy-cat and didn't want to tackle it myself. The most difficult part of the repair was the awkward position you have to get your body in to do the repair. Other than that it was a piece of cake.

Using a remote digital thermometer, noted that the oven temp reached operating temp, then fell 40-50 degrees, was slow to recover. After reading entries from others on your web site, removed oven floor and watched the burner operation. The igniter would light the gas at first, the temp would go up, gas would shut off. Then when the igniter came on again, it would glow for a long time before gas would come on.The replacement was very simple, even though one of the mounting screws twisted off, the remaining screw seems to be holding.Was a simple unplug old connector, insert new connector. The optional parts included in the kit were not needed.