KEBC167MSS03 KitchenAid Wall Oven - Instructions

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Thanks to those who replied to my intitial distress call...because of them I had the courage to attempt the repair.
First I flipped the main electrica breaker.
then I removed the screws from the main door. The next step was to pop out the pins holding the hinges. I couldn't do that no mater how much WD-40 and lubricant I used, or how hard I tapped center mass.....SO I took all the OTHER components out staring with the side facings. (1 screw right left and 2 for bottom.)
Next I took the screws holding the door together out -- then the two screws holding the clamps on the bottom of the door. At this point I lifted off the the front facing of the door by the handle and placed it with its glass, to the side.

I then had access to the two inside panes of glass. They are secured with a metal plate screwed into the metal of the inner door. When I removed the two screws securing the plate, two plates dropped to the floor and it was fortunate I was holding the glas securly as it two would have dropped.
Next, I cleaned each of tpieces of glass with oven cleaner and set them carefuly to the side.(they were crusted with brown) Lastly I wiggled the broken glass out of the small inner window, working from both the inside and the outside of the window. Becuase I couldn't open out the door.. this was an extrememly time consuming activity..but do-able.

Once the inner glass was in screwed one of the screws o the clamp plate so I could rest the glass while screwing in the second screw. Once screw two was in place I took out the retaining screw and replaceed in with the glass clamped between. Aftern that the tough stuff was done and I just reassmebled all the door parts.

This SHOULD have been much simplier! IF I could have removed the hinge pins as directed.

Anyway, mission acomplished. Oven works fine.
Thanks!

Used flat tip screw driver to pry front clip holding glass cover out of position. Pulled out dead bulb and pushed in new one. Slid clip back on glass cover and slid back into place. Simple. .

Replacement of the thermal overload safety thermostat very straight forward after sliding unit out, killing power and removing two covers. Tested both old and new and both show continuity (= good). Installed new, restored power and tested for proper operation. Didn't happen. Replaced original and now have new as spare. Now suspect the double line break relay on electronic control board is failed and source of problem. It is common to both elements and immediate before the suspected thermostat in circuit.

I followed instructions from the videos provided on the Part Select site. As with many such appliances, parts are interchangeable between brands. this unit is a KitchenAid but Whirpool,Kenmore parts interchange...Access from the front is all that's needed however and the only tool required was a phllips head screw driver...the only negative surprise (which the video warned about but I ignored) was the risk of the element leads drawing back through the holes, which 2 did. Save yourself that trouble by securing the wires to the back oven wall with a small strip of duct tape until you're ready to re-attach them to the new element. This necessitated removing the oven entirely for access to the back; the most time consuming aspect being removing/replacing what seemed like 20 odd screws holding the back cover in place! If not for that mistake, entire job would have been under 30 minutes. Well worth the effort and would do it again!

Kept removing screws and pulled things out until I got to the inner glass.
Yep, clueless and never did this before.
Put everything back in the opposite order of taking it out. Wala it's fixed.
Repair people wanted over $300 for parts and labor. However, with Partselect I was able to fix it for under $50.00 Well worth it!
Carmen

The inner glass on the wall oven shattered (apparently a common problem). Rather than look at a new $2-3,000 oven, I found the part for around $30. The repair was actually fairly easy, just had to be careful with the glass panes.
I did not remove the door completely, just worked on it either open or closed, depending on the step. First I loosened the two screws on the bottom of the door (when closed). Then I removed the four screws on the inside of the door and the two on the top part of the door (2). This allowed the outer panel to slide out and be removed.
Then there are two middle panes, held on by small clips with two screws in each. Remove one at a time, being careful not to drop any of the glass on the floor! Remember the order of the glass and the clips, so you can replace in the same order. (Now's a good time to clean all of the inner panes also, and to vacuum out the interior of the door.)
Lay these panes aside, and you should be to the broken inner pane, held on by a metal panel--again remove a couple screws, the panel, and remove all the broken glass. Be careful to retain all the insulation around the glass, and replace the glass, then the metal panel, the inner panes, and the outer door panel in that order. The outer panel should slide into place if you remove one clip and screw and start on one side, then replace the clip.

The Youtube videos for this particular repair, using part number PS11747304, indicated that the whole oven unit should be pulled out of the wall while working on it, and the electrical clips removed and re-attached from the back.

Because I was doing this as a one-man job, and didn't have anything to place the oven on while working, I turned off the circuit breaker, and performed the entire element replacement from the front.

1. I was very careful after unscrewing the 4 mounting screws (two in the back, two on the top) to gently pull the attaching wires while still attached to the old element.

2. I had 4 mini vice-grips that I clamped (gently) on the insulation of the 4 wires before detaching them from old element. The vice grips prevented the wires from disappearing to whence they came.

3. After completing the old element removal, I replaced it with the new element, attaching each wire where they had been attached to old element, only then removing the corresponding vice grip.

4. With all 4 wires reattached, I carefully pushed the element ends back into the back of the oven... also avoiding the protruding temperature sensor. The element needed to be held in place by hand until the first overhead screw could be re-screwed.

5. The most difficult part of the procedure was actually getting the screws to line up with their holes in the oven body. .. Returning the screws in fact took about half the 30 minutes the whole job took, because their alignment wasn't "keyed" such that the holes easily just lined up. My order was "Top right" - "Back Left", "Top Left", "Back Right".

Once the 4 screws were all satisfactorily tightened back in place, I turned the breaker back on, and hit the pre-heat function on the oven... It smoked a very little (my hands may have been a bit oily) but that quickly dissipated, and the job was complete. I am very thankful that I didn't have a professional come out. My baker wife has used the oven 10-20 times since then, and it seems as good as new.

This is a drop in range so I had to remove the range and set on a dolly. Turn the dolly around and acess the THRMST-FIX that needed replaceing, it was open. put the range back in its place and could still use the rest of stove until I received the parts 2 days later .
Pulled the range out put the new THRMST-FIX in put the range back together and put the range back in place and it has worked ever since.
GOOD JOB

Getting at the part was difficult. The top and both side panels had to be removed to reach the blower. Once they were off, it was fairly easy to swap out the blower. The repair guy wanted $140 for the part and $160 to insall. I did it myself for $94! If you do it yourself, keep a good record of what screws came from where as you go. This makes re-assembly much easier.

Read all the way through this once before doing it. It really helps in keeping pieces and parts separated. First I had to take off the oven door. Please do this as it will make your life so much easier! The owners instructions does a lousy job explaining how to do this. You need to insert a small Allen wrench into the holes behind the door hinge pin. Just stick them in there and leave them. If you don't have Allen wrenches you can use small nails or the like, but you have to put something into the holes. Close the door slowly, yes it will feel like you are going to break the hinges or the wrenches. When you get the door almost completely closed you should wiggle the door a bit by the handle and pull up. The door will come off. Once you get the door off you can get to work. Leave these wrenches in the hinge holes. You will need a flat surface big enough to lay the door down to work on it. Lay it down with the handle towards the surface and the broken glass facing you. Remove the 4 screws on the broken glass side, the 2 screws holding the brackets on the bottom and the 2 screws on the top of the door. You will need to wiggle the inside cover off because there are 2 little clips at the top you need to get it off of the outer glass door. You should have 2 separate pieces, the outer glass of the door and the inner tempered glass and sheet metal portion of the door. Set the outer glass door aside, somewhere safe, as you really don't want to have to reorder that part too! From there you can lay the door down with the broken inner door glass towards the work surface. Remove the screws and good pieces of glass and lay them down in the order you take them out. This helps putting them back together later. Keep the pieces together in sets so you know which set goes to each section. There should be 3 pieces of glass total in the assembly. You remove the screws and the 2 good pieces of glass. The inside door glass is accessible under a large piece of sheet metal held in place by little flanges cut into it. You can remove this sheet metal panel piece by wiggling it out away from under the hinges and away from the hinge end. There is a piece of insulation under there as well. Make sure you reseat it correctly when you put it all back together. If you don't it will stick out, and make things hard to line up. Pull the broken glass out, Put the new glass in and replace the sheet metal panel. At this point I would suggest putting the four screws you took out at the very beginning from the inside of the door back in. They keep the 2 hinge assemblies in place and they will be harder to line up if you don't. You need to work from the bottom side up but it's pretty easy to get the 4 screws back in. Don't be afraid to wiggle the pieces around so you can line up the holes. They need to line up so that the hinges line up back to the oven. Reverse how you took the other glass pieces out and put the door back together. Put the front glass piece back on and secure it in place with the bottom door brackets and screws and the top 2 screws. Lift the door unit back up by the handle and place it in the slots for the hinges exactly the way you removed it. You will feel it sort of catch when you pull the door open slowly. Remove the Allen wrenches and you are done.

Removed four trim pieces; removed four wood screws holding oven in cabinet housing; slid oven out (weighs about 150 lbs and takes two people and a bench to rest oven on. Oven will pull all the way out but not much further because of the electric cord.); Removed back sheet metal cover (bunch of small metal screws); removed wires from bad unit, unscrewed the bad unit and screwed in the replacement unit.

Our double-oven is wall-mounted, so accessing the backside to change the wires (as shown in the instruction video) was not a practical do-it-yourself option. After turning off the circuit breaker and disconnecting the broken broiler element, it is pretty easy to pull the four connection wires through the backside of the oven, which allowed us to disconnect the slide clips. We attached twist-ties to each clip/wire before disconnecting to keep the clips/wires from pulling back behind the oven wall when moving the new element into position. We found it necessary to crimp a few clips onto the new element to make secure connections, but the rest of the project went pretty much as shown in the video and the new element works great.

Oven stopped heating after attempting a self cleaning cycle. Problem turned out to be failed thermal fuse component. This is an easy repair and well worth the attempt given the replacement cost of the oven.

First step was to locate and shut off the two circuit breakers supplying power to the oven. Then I locked the panel to ensure someone didnt re-engage the breakers while I was working on the unit. (Lock out / Tag out).

Second step was sliding the oven out of the cabinet - this unit is located below a cooking top and was just the perfect height to allow a furniture dolly to be used to support the oven as I slid it out.

The unit is 'hard wired' (i.e. no power plug) so it can only be pulled out so far from the cabinet, but there was sufficient reach to allow access to and removal of the sheet metal cover at the rear of the oven to expose the thermal fuse and the read wiring. I proceeded with care, assuming the power was still on and once the terminals of the thermal fuse were exposed I performed a voltage measurement to ground on each side of the fuse to ensure power was in fact off.

Then I used an insulated pliers to gently remove the wire harness at each side of the fuse, and once the wires were removed I performed a continuity check of the suspect fuse, and confirmed it was an open circuit (i.e. failed).

Removal of two more screws allowed the fuse to be removed and the new fuse was installed, reversing the procedure.

This was followed by replacement of the rear sheet metal and finally sliding the oven back into its place in the cabinet using the furniture dolly. This is a single oven but still very heavy and has some sharp sheet metal edges likely to cause cuts if not handled with care so the dolly and a second set of hands (and good gloves) are nice to have.

Finally, after inspecting the oven door gasket and other air vents around the outside of the oven to identify suspect causes of the overheating event that tripped the fuse, the air vents above and below and within the door were cleared of dust-bunnies and other debris that had collected, possibly causing interference with the air flow that cools the area in between the oven and the cabinet. This blockage may have been the root cause of the fuse failure - i.e. the air did get too hot back there and had the fuse not tripped it would have been dangerous. The door gasket looked fine although its also an easy replacement and does not require oven removal.

The new part fit perfectly - it was a different design than the original part that shipped with the oven but appears to function perfectly so no complaints. The trip temperature is identical to the OEM part based upon the nomenclature on the back of the OEM and the replacement fuse part.

Unlocked the power panel and turned on the two breakers to the oven, set the clock and checked operation and its functioning great now.

Have not run a self cleaning operation since the repair but that is the next step and now that those door vents are clear I suspect that the fuse wont trip again.

Lesson Learned: Check those vents for obstructions.

Similar oven selling at discount because its the end of the model year is now priced at over $1100. Fixed our unit for $50 and the added cost of a $20 furniture dolly that I already wanted to buy.

Give this repair a try its a piece of cake and well worth the effort.

I have a rental and the tenant called. She said that she had a repair man out to fix the oven but he couldn't~that it needed to be replaced as he could not get parts.I contacted your company via phone and the person was so helpful~he asked the problem, looked up the model and advised me on this!It works like a brand new oven!Thanks you