KEMS306BBL3 KitchenAid Wall Oven - Instructions

I very simply replaced the gasket where it belonged and I was good to go!

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

We looked at SEVERAL postings on this site. We ARE NOT DYIers. The descriptions on how to do this repair were super helpful. When we read that it only took 30-minutes and was easy, we thought, "Well, they haven't met us!" On the contrary, we got through this without one marital issue. It did take both of us and was kind of like a puzzle. It took us somewhere between 30-60 minutes. We left the door on and worked our way through screw by screw, panel by panel and "voila!" -- we were able to turn on the oven that night without it exploding!! Thank you Part Select and all of the DYIers that post on this site!

FIRST: I Shut off the circuit breaker to the oven. Then: 1. Removed convection-fan cover (it was partially blocking the bake-element screws). 2. Unscrewed 2 bake-element screws. 3. Pulled old bake element forward to expose connectors. 4. Disconnected both connectors and discarded the old element. 5.Connected the new element and pushed it in so that plate was flush against the back of the oven. 6. Re-installed the 2 element screws. 7. Re-installed convection-fan cover. LASTLY: Turned on the circuit breaker to the oven and baked a cake! IMPORTANT: The original screws can be very, very tight. When removing them, be sure to use a socket wrench or other tool that gets a firm grip on the hex heads, or you could round the corners of the heads, permanently damaging the screws.

Remove the 3 Phillips screws along the bottom of the door, 2 screws on the inside and 2 screws on the top edge near the handle. Take off the outer door. Clean out the dust etc with a Vac. Tape the inner glass to the inside of the door so it doesn't slip loose later. Close the door. Remove the 4 screws under the foam to take off the middle window asm, not the 4 screws holding just the middle glass. Now when you remove this assembly the inner glass is not supported(this is why you taped it) so do not jar or lower the inner door yet. Now that the middle assembly is off support the inner glass with one hand and lower the door. Remove the tape and remove the glass. Now install the new glass being careful the gasket is in place. Reinstall everything in reverse.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

The door was not engaging the micro switches properly no doubt from 10+ years of wear. The upper switch removed fairly easily but take care not to tweak the plastic brace too much or it will snap. The lower one was the tricky one. After much examination I noticed that the trick to remove it was underneath the brace. Take a butter knife (no joke) and insert it just under the old micro switch and gently press down twisting the micro switch every so slightly til it releases. The replacements snap back in with no trouble. The microwave is working much better now, though not perfect.