KEBS207YBL2 KitchenAid Wall Oven - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Barry from WOODSTOCK, GA
- Parts Used:
- WP8053344
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Oven wouldn't heat above 300 deg. F.
I tried taking the sensor out, but the plastic coupling behind the oven wall had melted and the melted piece was larger than the opening in the oven wall. I had to use a mini-screwdriver to chip away at the melted coupling before it would fit through the opening. That took forever...but it finally worked and the repair went quickly (15 minutes) after that.
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- Customer:
- Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
- Parts Used:
- 8009
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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- Customer:
- Dana from Black Mountain, NC
- Parts Used:
- WP8203546
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Loose terminal caused block to overheat and break
Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.
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- Customer:
- CATHERINE from PIKE ROAD, AL
- Parts Used:
- WP661416
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Bake element failed and Cohen's Elec. Repairman could not work me back into schedule until after my holiday gathering had occurred.
Since I had to pay an $80 house call fee, I asked repairman to tell me the model number for the element, called Parts Select, ordered the element myself and saved my weekend of 17 hungry guests.
So, I guess you would say I paid $80 for a diagnosis; I think I really knew the problem and solution all along as I have ordered to-install stove top element before.
So, I guess you would say I paid $80 for a diagnosis; I think I really knew the problem and solution all along as I have ordered to-install stove top element before.
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- Customer:
- John from Emmetsburg, IA
- Parts Used:
- WP3169203
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Inner door glass cracked in 3 places
Removed 3 screws on bottom edge of door,2 screws on top edge of door. Outside of door comes off. Then use a 1/4 nut driver and remove glass window supports until you get to the inner door glass. Reverse to assemble. Gasket was okey.
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- Customer:
- Peggy from Bronson, MI
- Parts Used:
- WP3169203
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Broken glass on inside of oven door
Take the time to pull off the door from the hinge; which is to simply pull it up to release with the door open approx. 4 inches. Have a Philips head screwdriver and a nut driver set available. Keep the screws grouped and the take it apart in the logical sequence. It took about 30 minutes total to complete the job. But then again, it was a woman who did it!
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- Customer:
- Rustin from LARAMIE, WY
- Parts Used:
- WP8053344
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
FAULT CODE F-3
REMOVE BACK COVER. UN PLUG, REMOVE TWO SCREWS IN SIDE OVEN, PULL OUT , REPLACE, REATTACH, FIXED CODE F-3
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- Customer:
- Stan from FLAT ROCK, NC
- Parts Used:
- W11594027
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Oven lamp socket had broken center electric tab - failed.
1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.
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Replaced gasket and broken glass in the oven door
First I removed the bottom oven drawer from the stove. Then I removed all the screws from the outer oven door. Then I removed the screws from the inter door panel and needed assistance to remove the first glass panel and frame. Then I removed the second panel of glass and frame. Then I removed the third panel of glass that was broken. The gasket was the last part to be removed. Getting the new gasket to stay put while putting the new glass panel next to it was the hard part. I needed assistance to place the glass against the gasket and then place the frame back on this panel. Once this mission was accomplished. It was a matter of getting the next glass panel put back in the frame. and replacing the inter door panel and putting the screws back in. Then I put the third glass panel and screws back in. Once this was accomplished , I put the outer door back and put the screens back in the outer door.
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from St. Augustine, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP3169203
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Cracked oven glass
Lots of screws but if you have the proper sized nut driver it goes quite easily. Take time to see how the inner glass is mounted to the oven door. There are also screws on the bottom of the door that you need to remove to get the inner panel off. The door itself can stay on the hinges
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- Customer:
- Yafa (and David) from Bothell, WA
- Parts Used:
- 8009
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Replacing the bulb in the freezer side
Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.
Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.
Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
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Clearly, the bulb was the problem. The gasket is an invitation to more trouble.
Simple. But beware changing just the bulb when the gasket is not secure.
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- Customer:
- Teresa from Wichita, KS
- Parts Used:
- WP3169203
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Cracked inner oven door glass
Did require removing almost every screw in the oven door. Labeled the screws as they were removed. Not difficult, just like solving a puzzle.
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- Customer:
- JOSEPH from COON RAPIDS, MN
- Parts Used:
- W11594027
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Worn/Bulb Socket
It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.
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- Customer:
- William H. from morehead city, NC
- Parts Used:
- W11594027
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
electrical short from oven light.
I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy
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