KEBS147DBL10 KitchenAid Wall Oven - Instructions

Remove rear panel - remove sensor from inside - unplug from rear - reverse to install - did not fix problem

GENERAL APPROACH:
1) Checked YouTube for some general guidance: VERY helpful things there for this! PartSelect's install info. was helpful as well- Thank you for this!
2) had table set up in order to disassemble the door once it was removed
3) There are 4 separate glass panes in there- they all need to be cleaned
4) TOOK PICTURES AND MADE CAREFUL NOTES AS (12 or 15?) SCREWS ARE TINY & THERE ARE DIFFERENT TYPES. TAPED THEM NEAR WHERE I REMOVED THEM SO AS TO KEEP THINGS STRAIGHT
5) Like any project little or big, just take your time & it actually works out well
6) take advantage of this downtime to clean the oven good, as well as the door & panes of glass. Cleaning was 75% of this project.
7) EXTRA: If you're so inclined, turn the breaker off for the Oven & carefully remove the lower heating element to enable easier & more thorough cleaning of your oven. You'll be glad you did this- and so will your cook!

This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.

Originally ordered just the spring assuming that might be it and it was the cheapest way. However after getting in I found that the latch assembly had a broken 'tit' that is intended to hold the metal latch in place as it moves. Attempted to glue w/ epoxy but as i expected there was too much pressure to hold it in place. So....ordered the assembly.

TURN OFF BREAKER.....

1) Remove the two side rails by removing screw on the inside bottom of rails.
2) It helps to remove the door to get it out of your way but not required. To do this open door fully and insert two nails or similar into holes on each hinge. Close the door until the hinge contact nails. Lift the door up and out.
3) remove the top control panel by removing screw on either side (outside of oven)and screws on the underside of panel behind upper door.
4) It help to completely remove the panel to have more room to work but not required. If you do it is a good idea to photo the cable locations so it is easy to recall where they go. For the most part they only fit one location but always a good idea.
5) remove the latch by removing all spade connectors and two screws in front.
6) place new latch and reassemble.

After turning of the breaker for the oven, I pulled out the oven, removed the back panel. The High-Temp thermal cutoff was attached to 2 wires, which I unplugged, and then removed the cutoff by removing two screws. I then replaced the part in reverse order, pushed the oven back into the cabinet, and turned the breaker back on.

removed double wall oven light lens install bulb replace lens fini

Pulled the stove out, unscrewed the back and plugged the new thermostat in. Screwed the back back on

Product Select was the only distributor to have the oven door glass in stock. Kitchen Aid could not even get it for months.

INSTRUCTIONS:
Repaired the top over door glass quickly and easily by asking my son to do it.

Only problem. stripped screw. Replaced at local hardware store. Directions were simple and easy.

First we watched a YouTube on how to replace the thermostat. It was easy to turn off the circuit breaker. It was a little tricky to pull the range away from the wall and then we were able to unplug. Because our range is a dual fuel model, the back had a lot more screws to remove to get to the thermostat because there were covers over a lot of wires and the gas line I presume. However, we did get off the 12 or so screws with a regular screw driver. We easily located the thermostat and quickly realized that the two screws holding the thermostat in place were neither flat head nor phillips. We were able to remove one of them and merely twisted it sideways, installed the new thermostat with one screw and attached the wires. When we flipped the circuit breaker and plugged in the over, Voila, it worked. The hardest part was getting all the covers off the back. I hope it doesn't happen again because this was an expensive replacement part.

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.

After we put the latch pins in, the door was easily lifted off. We placed the door on the table and unscrewed the trim pieces. The new trim pieces went into place after we cleaned the door. We slipped the door back on the oven and removed the hinge pins.

This is a microwave/ Oven slide in unit. You DO NOT need to slide out the unit, the repair can be done from inside the oven. Just be careful on pulling the wires from the unit so they do not break. I used shrink wrap over the joints but you can use tape as long as it can take the temperatures

Taking off the glass lense for the light bulb was harder than I thought. It unscrews counterclockwise, but it was very hard to get off. It would not turn. I ended up using connector pliers I use for work, that has rubber jaws. The lense unscrewed very easy with it. Light also unscrews out. PartSelect.com is the only way to go to buy parts for appliances. It is simple, even has the illustrated parts catalog. And it saves a lot of time and gas, driving around looking for the part!!. PartSelect came through again.

Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.