KEMS306XWH6 KitchenAid Wall Oven - Instructions

1. Open door and place a nail in the small circle in each of the two side hinges. This step is crucial. It keeps the hinges from springing back into the oven when the door is removed.

2. Remove the 2 screws on the oven door at the top of each spring. Close the door until stopped by the 2 nails, then lift the door up and off the hinges.

3. Lay the door on a soft surface(some oven parts may be greasy), inside of the door face up, and remove the 5 screws holding the main two halves of the door together. Remove the top piece.

4. Remove the 4 screws that are under the insulation strips. This will damage the strips, but there is no other way. Just try to keep as much of the strip as you can.

5. Continue removing screws and layers of glass (ours had 3 inner layers)until you reach the inner most piece.

6. Replace the broken glass and then reverse the process to put everything back together.

Notes: We work slowly and methodically, so the whole process took us over an hour but we also took this opportunity to really clean every crack and crevasse that is normally hidden. All in all this was not a very hard job and worth doing it as a DYI project instead of calling a repair person.

1. Removed cabinet screws (10-15?). 2. Removed cabinet. 3. Removed top interlock switch which actually was not defective. The press clip connection appeared as if it had been arcing for quite some time and the corrosion created resistance sufficient to prevent the current from getting through the switch. 4. Replaced switch anyway but broke plastic retaining clip despite every effort not to do so. Reset broken clip with super glue. 5. Reassembled cabinet and appliance is in good working condition.

Problem would come and go. Found service schematic inside unit. Perform all the suggested tests. One possible solution was the primary interlock switch shown on the schematic and a check found the switch stuck. It would free up some times but would stick again in the open position. Ordered switch which was a simple plug in unit.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

The honeycomb filter in the vent was missing so I bought the entire vent cap.. Thought it attach with 2 screws from inside the oven.. BUT -- when you loosen the screws, it wouldn't drop.. Looked at the new part and saw that it attaches to the vent outside the oven as well.. So to replace this puppy, you have to pull the cabinet apart..

Left it for another day.. Hopefully no grease fires..

First tried to replace the glass and gasket without removing the oven door. Removed all screws and took the door apart. However, I found it was very hard to get the gasket to stay in place and put the glass window in place with the door frame still attached to the oven and upright. Decided to go ahead and lift the door off the hinges by removing the two final screws. Then the door could be layed flat on the floor and it was much easier to put in the insulation and glass pane.

Just pulled the old support out with pliers and installed the new one which snaps in. Not sure why the support melted as it has been the same one twice now. Keep extra support clips on hand, but no need as Parts Select had the new ones here next day.

Had already removed back covers and disconntedted power. When io received parts I replaced them in reverse oder I had removed them. Took me longer to replace back covers because of my bad diabetic hands. Thanks very much, yopu savbed me a bunch. God bless you and yours, god bless america.

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Take the time to pull off the door from the hinge; which is to simply pull it up to release with the door open approx. 4 inches. Have a Philips head screwdriver and a nut driver set available. Keep the screws grouped and the take it apart in the logical sequence. It took about 30 minutes total to complete the job. But then again, it was a woman who did it!

Since I had to pay an $80 house call fee, I asked repairman to tell me the model number for the element, called Parts Select, ordered the element myself and saved my weekend of 17 hungry guests.
So, I guess you would say I paid $80 for a diagnosis; I think I really knew the problem and solution all along as I have ordered to-install stove top element before.

Removed 3 screws on bottom edge of door,2 screws on top edge of door. Outside of door comes off. Then use a 1/4 nut driver and remove glass window supports until you get to the inner door glass. Reverse to assemble. Gasket was okey.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

Lots of screws but if you have the proper sized nut driver it goes quite easily. Take time to see how the inner glass is mounted to the oven door. There are also screws on the bottom of the door that you need to remove to get the inner panel off. The door itself can stay on the hinges