KEBC167MSS01 KitchenAid Wall Oven - Instructions

The oven is a KitchenAid convection oven with 4 panes of glass. The front, two inner glass panes that aren’t “touchable” and the interior glass that is the one that takes the heat from the oven and which you can clean easily - this is important because the descriptions of the glass all say “inner glass”. This is door #3 in the diagram that measure 10 x 22”. Which I cracked when I was pouring water into a pan to create steam for bread baking (lesson learned).

Because of the age of the oven, to remove the oven door it was necessary to place “pins” (we use medium screws) into the hole behind the door latches. Then were able to lift off the oven door. (We saw some videos on YouTube)

We placed the oven door on the counter top and removed ALL screws that held the door at the bottom and around the casing - KEEP these screws separate by where you’ve removed them so you replace them into the proper section when you reassemble the door. Each glass you remove has slots that hold them in their proper places. I recommend taking a picture BEFORE you take out each glass as there are brackets that need to go in proper order and you don’t want to forget the order.

We had to flip the door over in order to CAREFULLY remove the casing and access the different inner glass sections (took the opportunity to really clean them). Gathered the broken glass pieces into a paper bag and vacuumed the fragments. Then we were able to place the new interior glass from PartSelect, and reassemble the oven door. It’s perfect!

This took some time most likely because it’s a very old oven and you need to be methodical. I was just glad to be able to get the part - not yet ready to replace the oven.

BTW, originally I was guided to order glass #7 which is one of the inner glass panes that you cannot touch - unless you take apart the oven door - The exchange for the proper door was handled very quickly and easily. Hope this helps.

This was more difficult than anticipated - probably because I'd never done it before. Once I got the door off (I didn't have the proper pins and used nails but didn't realize they had to be headless) I found all the screws, which were relatively easy to take out. I was surprised that the thermal door glass was obscured by two other panes of glass. It took more disassembly than anticipated and a few false starts when reassembling, but all in all it got done. I was happy that a job that would have cost probably $300 or more ended up getting done for $40 plus my labor - which isn't worth much these days. I'd certaily do it again.

I found that what was keeping the old temp sensor electrical connection attached to the stove-side connection was a little tab. It wasn't obvious that that was the thing that was keeping the connection secure but there weren't any other alternatives. So pushing the tab up with the metal probe (just a narrow rigid metal wire) allowed me to pull the connection apart.

All this takes place way at the back of the oven so its difficult to fiddle with a screwdriver and the retaining screws at arms length. Putting a bit of scotch tape around the screw to keep it attached to the screwdriver kept it from falling off. My hand was a bit shaky extended like that so that was the way to go.

Bottom line, if your oven won't reach or hold the temp you dial in on the control panel it's the temperature sensor. Now if I set it for 300 deg. that's what I get.

Followed a video. Followed instructions

Remove the oven from the wall
Remove the rear panel
Remove the 2 bottom panels
Lift and fold back the insulation
Remove the element enclosure
Replace the element
Reverse the steps to assemble

* the oven would not preheat and the top elements were working

1. Disconnect AC power 2. Remove back with several sheet metal screws. 3. Remove wires from Limit Thermostat. 4. Check Limit Thermostat continuity -- if open then Limit Thermostat is faulty. 5. Remove Limit Thermostat with two screws. 6. Install new thermostat

Removed the door from the oven. Undid all the parts above the inner glass door. Installed the inner glass and reassembled the door. Reinstalled oven door.

With just the removal of a few screws I was able to replace the glass with the side benefit of cleaning the outter glass that had gotten dirty over the years with use. This is a simple project that all can complete.

removed double wall oven light lens install bulb replace lens fini

Pulled out stove and removed side panel, then removed old fan unit. Installed new fan unit and replaced side of stove then slide back in place, stove runs even more quiet than when it was new. And obtaining the new part from Partselect was even easier than dealing with a part store where you stand at the counter. This service really has the part down pat for us layman repair people.

First I looked at how I would get to the blower - this took 15 minutes. I removed the grills to access the burners. Then I removed the burners that took approx. 15 minutes. I then had to remove the knobs for the burners. Next I had to remove the front control panel which had 2 screws - (did not disconnect any wires but supported it). Next I had to remove the side trim. Next I removed 4-5 screws that secured the upper burner range top. Next I removed the side panels which has a braket on the lower forward side and 2 rear screws on each panel. Next I had to remove the aft backspash guard. At the back I had to remove a support braket that had several screws - then I had to remove the exhaust fan back panel guard. Next I had to remove approx. 7 screws on each side of the stove that supports the burner valves. Then I lifted the left side most closest to the blower. This gave me access just enough to remove the mounting screws (4) and to remove the 2 wires. There was some cushioning material which I found inadequate to prevent any vibration when the fan and the valve support top sits on the blower - so I doubled it. Then I reinstalled everything. This job took me 4 hours. I suggest calling a Kitchenaid repair technician and not doing this yourself. Unless you are a mechanically inclined and really like frustration.

I found some of the feedback posted on this site very helpful. Taking photos as I went along was also very helpful in remembering how to put it back together. There are several over-lapping pieces to the door and you have to be careful to put things back together in the correct order. Lining up the screw holes on the hinges with the door is also a little tricky.

Remove and replace oven door hinges. Disassembly of oven door unit required. Step by step instructions available on youtube.

I pinpointed the location of the sound, took off the protective plate, felt it vibrating against the plate. I disconnected the power supply, and looked at the wirings and how it was connected, saw some burning residue surrounding the area of the Transformer. Then figured that I could simply replace this. I wrote down the Model and Serial number of the Stove, searched online, found this site. Located the part on the diagram, then simply ordered it. My part arrived in 3 days, and had the part replaced the next day. Couldn't be a smoother fix. Thanks.

After reading all the other entries, I decided that I could do this! My first hurdle was getting the oven door off the hinges. Mine were not like any of the others described. My son-in-law looked at them and couldn't figure them out. So, I found the original installation instructions and, lo and behold, they said to flip the lever (one finger operation) in each of the rectangular holes holding the door onto the oven and then lift up until the door comes off. I did it, and it did! Boy, is it heavy! From there I just followed everyone else's instruction about undoing the screws, washing the glass panels, lining up the screw holes to get it back together, etc. One thing that took me longer was that the steel panel needs to go back the way it came out, not flipped! When I washed the glass panel it held, I put it down wrong and then "installed" it backwards. Luckily, I have a double oven and looked at the other one to see what was holding up the re-assembly! I'm glad that one of the others mentioned that the glass on the "bottom", the one that broke, isn't held in my screws or steel plates -- nothing, so I wasn't surprised when I got to it and it was "floating" on the insulation. My white insulation was like a fine fiberglass and was easy to stuff back in around the rim of the new glass. Took me a little over one hour. So, no more wet rags on hot glass (you'd think after living 72 years that I would remember this!) The glass fit perfectly and my husband would have been proud of me -- that I tackled a job that he usually handled, and that I saved over $200 for a couple of hours of labor and travel time.