KEBS177DAL8 KitchenAid Wall Oven - Instructions

Removing the door was the first challenge but once the door was off it was a matter of disassembling the door to get access to the interior door. If you remove all pieces and line them up in the order that they are removed you have a good chance for success.

Repair was fast and easy, door closes like new.

The Kitchenaid oven has 2 interior oven lights. They are behind rectangular glass panels, in an assembly housing The repair is pretty simple. Shut off the power at the breaker box to the oven first. First remove the small screw that holds in the assembly with a Phillips screwdriver. Put down a white piece of paper towel to catch it in case it drops. It is grey color and hard to find against the bottom of the oven. This will free up the assembly and you can move it out. There is a wire on the back so it only comes out a short distance. Next the glass panel covering the bulb must be removed. The small metal clamp with 2 projections that act like a spring to put tension on the glass. Gently pull this out parallel to to the glass and it will release the lens. The old bulb is a simple 2 prong halogen that pulls out easily. Replace it with the new bulb carefully pushing the prongs in. If you did not turn off the power the light will come on immediately. it will get hot quickly so don't touch it for more than a few seconds. Next slide the glass lens back into place into the back of the assembly. Slip the other clip with the screw back on the front. Replace the assembly back into the oven side opening. Secure by replacing the small screw removed in the beginning. You are done. It is about a 5 minute job start to finish. I would replace both bulbs even if only one went out because the other one probably will go out a short time later and you will have to go through this again soon. Oh, and cheap bulbs are not worth it. They are very dim and burn out quickly. Go with the better bulbs you get from PartSelect.

I looked up the meaning of the error codes and determined that the temp sensor was malfunctioning. Looked on line for a sensor and found what I thought was the right one and ordered it from PartSelect. The sensor arrived three days later and I removed the old sensor (with some difficulty I might add). Then I discovered the connector did not match. I called PartSelect and found out that the sensor connectors had changed since the oven was built and that an after-market sensor with the right connector was available. I ordered the new one, returned the wrong one and the new one arrived three days later. I popped it in and now I have a working oven.

I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.

You need to replace both the left and right springs. Open the door completely, . Insert a short screw in each pin hole on each spring bracket.slightly lift the door and pull out. remove the four screws that secure the front panel. Remove the four screws that secure the springs. Install the new springs and replace the front panel. Replace the door assembly into the oven, remove the pins that were shipped with the hinges and you are done.

Lower the oven door. Insert the locking hinge pins. Pull the door away from the oven. Remove the 4 screws, 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom, to remove the front panel. Remove the 4 screws that secure each left and right spring. Remove the old springs and install the replacements by reversing the procedure. Remember to purchase 2 springs.

I followed these instructions put in by a fellow customer. These were very helpful. Just make sure the glass is finger print free before you put it all back together. My time was 30 minutes end to end. =========================== The first thing I did was to remove the oven door by releasing the two latches on the hinges (by hand). I then raised the door toward the vertical position and lifted up. The hinges slide out of the oven housing. I laid the door, inside face up on my island counter top. This ensures that none of the parts will fall when disassembling the door. Next I unscrewed the screws 4 top and bottom and four on the inside face. This releases the frame from the front housing. Lift the frame off the door, exposing the glass pieces. Lift off the broken inside glass and place the new piece in the glass retaining housing. Replace the outside frame and replace all screws. Take door back over to oven and slide hinge bottoms back into slots on oven. Rotate to horizontal position and flip latches back to locked position. Total time was about 10 minutes mainly because I was curious how the door was constructed and I poked around while it was disassembled

Replaced hinges since weak springs were allowing the door to open as the oven heated which would turn on the oven light and give a warning on the control panel. To remove door you need to open the dorr all the way and place a short pin through a hole in the hinge under the hinge point. The pin needs to be short enough that you can get it to pass through the door surround. I cut a short pair of pins from a 16D nail. Place the short pins in the respective hinges and then close the door. Grip the oven door handle and the bottom of the door and lift it free of the oven. Lay the door face down on a towel or blanket. remove three phillips screws from the top of the door and two from the brackets on the bottom of the door. Also can remove the two phillips screws on the door that hold each hinge in place. Seperate the door from the glass and lift out the old hinges. Install the new hinges and reassemble the door. ILift the door back into place. Make sure you install it tight/close to the oven front. Open the door, noting any interference and if it opens freely then open completely and remove the factory installed pins from the hinge and you should be done!

I turned off the power from the circuit breaker. I then removed the doors and the trim package from around the oven. I slid out the oven and had my husband help me lower it to the floor. I removed the back covering and then removed the wires connected to the old thermostat. I unscrewed the old thermostat and replaced it with the new thermostat. Did everything in reverse and it seems to be working very well. It took about 30 minutes total. Some sites suggested that a fuse needed to be adjusted/replaced. In this kitchen-aid double oven and I'm assuming whirlpools as well, the thermostat/fuse is one piece located on the back of the unit. It was very simple. The piece cost $47. Such a great investment of time and money. I had the piece in 2 days, without paying extra postage.

Removed wall oven from wall. Removed back cover. Unscrewed thermastat and removed old thermastat. Screwed in new thermastat and put back together.

turned breaker switch off. unscrewed the oven from the cabinet. lifted the oven out of the cabinet (heavy & awkward, needed an extra pair of hands). removed back panel. replaced fuse. reassembled everything. this is the second time i've had to replace the thermo fuse (oven blows the fuse when set to clean). first time i replaced the fuse it took about two hours. second time it about an hour.

There are hinges on the door that need to be lifted up to take the entire oven door off the appliance. The screws are taken off of the door to get to the interior glass. The cracked oven door was simply taken off and replaced by the new one and the screws were put back and the door was placed by hooking it onto the appliance and the hinges were dropped down. Simple as that!

The repair was very simple. First, turned off the power to the electric oven by turning off the circuit breaker. Removed the side moldings (one screw on the bottom of each), and removed the bottom molding (two screws, one on each side). Removed two screws that held the oven in place (one on each side toward the top). With the help of another person, we pulled the oven out and set it on a two wheel dolly that was laying flat on the floor. I thought I was going to have to remove the power from the wired junction box, but found that the cord was long enough and I could turn the oven on the dolly to get access to the back cover. There are approximately 12 screws that hold on the back most cover. I removed the cover and the thermal shut off was located in the upper left/center part of the back of the oven. I removed the two wires and two screws holding the part to the oven and replaced. I then worked in reverse and put everything back together. The new part fixed the issue and the oven works fine.

Once the door was secured with hinge locking pins which I made out of cut off 16 penny nails,I removed the door , layed it on a soft padded piece of vinyl and proceeded to remove the inside top cover which was secured with phillips screws on the top and sides. I was then greeted by 2 sheets of glass before I could get to the front glass which was the one that cracked.These sheets of glass were secures with slotted metal frames which also required removing several screws and braces. I was then able to remove the cracked glass and replace it with the new glass panel. Then I had to reverse the steps to assemble the door which was fairly easy since I made a diagram of the steps when I disassembled the door (this saved me alot of aggravation since my memory isn't what it used to be. The door was fitted into the frame of the oven and once the hinges were in place I removed the pins and closed the door. It was at that point that I got a kiss from my grateful wife. End of story.