KEBC167MSS00 KitchenAid Wall Oven - Instructions

I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.

Unscrewed the old thermostat took off the conectors then replaced with new one, and screwed it back on.

After reading other repair reports and talking to a representative, I ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat. Relatively easy to install after removing the oven from the cabinet, only it did not work. After going over the wiring with a voltage meter, we discovered there was no power to the upper oven, only the lower oven was working. Took the panel off the top of the oven and found a wire which was not attached to anything. Never needed this part at all. This oven was purchased from a second-hand store and was used in a remodeling. $52 for part and $100 for serviceman to make the oven operational.

I found several posts about Whirlpool/KitchenAid ovens having this problem and most of the time this required a replacement of the thermal fuse. Other than the large number of screws to remove the oven and the sheet metal coverings, replacing the fuse was mostly about waiting to get the part. If I had a local dealer with the fuse, I probably could have been baking Deep Dark Chocolate Cheesecake that same evening. Even so, this particular repair should be left to those familiar with doing moderate-level handyman type repairs. You have to make sure the breaker is off and beware of the sharp edges on sheet metal. Fortunately, the fuse was easy to find using online documentation for my model. Part Select was very helpful when my original order did not arrive. Their customer service was great!

This site helped me diagnois the problem rating the suggested problem as a 99% chance cause of the problem. Ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat and it arrived in just two days. Repair was quick and easy once getting the oven removed from the cabinet. (It's very heavy so have some assistance or a sturdy stand to set it out on.)#2 Phillips scredriver and needle nose pliers were only tools needed. Overall, an easy repair for anyone.

Had no problem replacing the glass it took my Husband and I less than 30 min. It took only a screw driver and that's it. Very easy

The Kitchenaid oven has 2 interior oven lights. They are behind rectangular glass panels, in an assembly housing The repair is pretty simple. Shut off the power at the breaker box to the oven first. First remove the small screw that holds in the assembly with a Phillips screwdriver. Put down a white piece of paper towel to catch it in case it drops. It is grey color and hard to find against the bottom of the oven. This will free up the assembly and you can move it out. There is a wire on the back so it only comes out a short distance. Next the glass panel covering the bulb must be removed. The small metal clamp with 2 projections that act like a spring to put tension on the glass. Gently pull this out parallel to to the glass and it will release the lens. The old bulb is a simple 2 prong halogen that pulls out easily. Replace it with the new bulb carefully pushing the prongs in. If you did not turn off the power the light will come on immediately. it will get hot quickly so don't touch it for more than a few seconds. Next slide the glass lens back into place into the back of the assembly. Slip the other clip with the screw back on the front. Replace the assembly back into the oven side opening. Secure by replacing the small screw removed in the beginning. You are done. It is about a 5 minute job start to finish. I would replace both bulbs even if only one went out because the other one probably will go out a short time later and you will have to go through this again soon. Oh, and cheap bulbs are not worth it. They are very dim and burn out quickly. Go with the better bulbs you get from PartSelect.

Contacted repair person on line and explained the problem. Person suggested testing the thermal fuse. Checked for continuity and there was none indicating the fuse was blown. Ordered new part and installed. Everything working again. Only problem was that the new part did not have the same connection as the old one on one end. Made substitution and it worked.

Killed the power to oven, removed oven from its enclosure (its heavy), removed back off oven and the part that needed to be replaced was right there. After that simply reverse the procedure. Honestly hardest part of whole job was remembering what i did with the screwdriver after my last home repair job. The oven is heavy you may need help.

Have a Whirlpool Accubake self cleaning wall oven that quit working after doing a cleaning. Found that the thermal overload safety thermostat might be the problem. Ordered the part which arrived in a couple of days. Installation was very easy and took about 10 minutes. First turn off power to the oven. Slide the oven out, remove the back panel, remove the old safety thermostat which has two wires coming off of it, and replace it with the new one. Put the back panel on and slid the oven back in. Turned the power to the oven back on and we had heat. Problem solved.

I followed the step-by-step instructions from Steve on the part select videos posted on Youtube.

Turned the circuit breaker off, removed trim and the oven screws, pulled oven out, and placed on a stand in front. Electrical cord was just long enough without disconnecting. Removed the back panel, installed the old thermostat with the new one the same way. Used the same phillips screwdriver for the operation. Installed the oven using reverse order. Turn circuit breaker on, back in business. Prior comments definitely helped me a lot. Thanks.

re thermostat/fuse breakage after cleaning: I replaced the part a 2nd time within a year, both times after a cleaning cycle and after 10 years of no similar problem . This time, when putting the oven back, I cleaned all around the door frame and noticed the exhaust grill was heavily filled with dust strands. It's possible this reduced the exhaust enough to overheat the oven during long high temp cleaning and blow the thermo fuse. Just a thought.

find the owner's manual & follow the instructions for inserting two allen wrenches (assuming that you cannot find the "removal tools" that came with the oven) into the holes near the hinges on the door, carefully & slowly close the door with the wrenches inserted until the hinges disengage from the wall mounted oven. Lift the door away (is rather heavy). It is necessary to remove panels from the front one layer at a time to reach the 3rd layer of glass (the inner most glass that is the rather easy one to break). Be slow and methodical. Not a challenge once you study the owner's manual for door removal instructions.

This 60 y.o. female had no owners manual. I completely relied on the information of this forum. *Recommend having a work area prepped before starting. I used a thick beach towel on the kitchen table. A layer of newspaper to catch all the dirty bits is a good idea.*You must remove the door - I followed the instructions using the allen wrench in the holes of the hinge. Open door. I put the short end of the wrench in the hole and leaned the long end against the oven rim. Start closing door and when almost closed, lift up to remove.*Place door handle side up on work surface to remove the 4 screws that hold outermost glass in place, 2 at top and two in brackets at bottom. Lay this aside in safe place on table. *Take off each layer to reach broken glass. *The hinge assembly has to be removed and the allen wrenches have to come out in order to accomplish this. Squeeze the hinge to take pressure off wrench to remove. Gloves help protect your hands for this step.Remove 2 screws each side. Keep each hinge next to the side it came from so you reassemble correctly.*If you have a phone with photo capability - I recommend you take a photo of each disassembly step. This saved me when it came to replacing the two brackets that hold the inner two pieces of glass. Clean all parts before reassembly (this takes the longest amount of time). I placed a thick cup towel in my sink and scrubbed. The cleaner I use for my glass range surface worked best. Dry thoroughly. When you get to the shattered glass remove it very carefully to avoid damaging the insulation underneath. I wish I had just purchased replacement insulation. Once the glass is replaced, everything goes back in reverse order. Now, here's the thing. I spent alot of time scrubbing. So, by the time I got to reassembly, I was bamboozled by the two 10 inch aluminum brackets that hold the two inner pieces of glass in place. So, to avoid any confusion, pay close attention to how these two brackets are placed or take pictures. This was an easy fix that went really well thanks to all the helpful info found here.