79046994100 Kenmore Wall Oven - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Ronald from FOREST HILLS, KY
- Parts Used:
- 316217002
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven would start to heat then quit,checked the temperature sensor with ohm meter after cool down reading about 1100 ohms. I cleaned connection tried it again seemed to work well but quit again in just few days.
Pulled range out from cabinet, removed back plate, two screws inside oven attaching the temp sensor. Then pulled the sensor and wire through from back. Reverse to replace about Ten minutes
OEM parts plug in same, works great
OEM parts plug in same, works great
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- Customer:
- Larry from COZAD, NE
- Parts Used:
- 5304524341
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Lens cover for the oven light
Very easy just had to pull the wire up that holds it secure.
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- Customer:
- christine from addison, PA
- Parts Used:
- 316217002
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
oven not reheating after initial heat up
unscrew the sensor inside the oven; took off the back of range to access harness of sensor; the replacement part harness did not match up to the original, so we stripped the clip from the end of the part and also the end of the harness in should clip into. after joining the wires together with ceramic wire nuts we tested the oven to make sure all worked AND IT DID!
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- Customer:
- Charles from RESTON, VA
- Parts Used:
- 389082702
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Replace the dual-element burner in glasstop range
The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.
1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.
2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.
3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.
Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.
The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.
1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.
2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.
3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.
Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.
The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.
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- Customer:
- Oscar from Scranton, KS
- Parts Used:
- 316217002
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
F10 Error. Temp sensor at 1189 room temp ohms
1. Loosened 2 sensor mounting screws and removed them. 2. Tripped range circuit breaker to off. 3. Pulled out the range but left gas connected. 4. Loosened the 4 screws on RH side of the top back panel and carefully pried that side of the panel open. 5. Using fingers, threaded the sensor's wiring harness through insulation and into the oven. 6. Unplugged old probe. 7. plugged in new probe. 8. tugged wiring harness back through insulation behind the oven. 9. Using 2 screws removed in 1 above, mounted new sensor. 10. Repositioned top back panel and fastened it in place. 11. Shoved range back in. 12. Tripped range circuit breaker to on. 13. Reset clock. 14. Set oven to 450 for test tun. 15.
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- Customer:
- Michael A from Fairhaven, MA
- Parts Used:
- 318041603
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replcement of inner door glass which had shattered
Removed the door from the range, disassembled the door, removed all broken glass fragments, installed the new glass, reassembled the door and reinstalled the door into the range. Straightforward and easy. Keep track of which screws go where and it is a breeze.
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- Customer:
- Everett from Colchester, CT
- Parts Used:
- 318178110
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Element would not heat up
Removed 2 screws located underneath the front lip of the range top. Lifted range top and supported. Removed the 2 screws at either end of the support bracket. This bracket holds the elements in position. Be careful not to let the elements fall out when removing. The elements are now free to replace. Swap out the old with the new and be sure to reconnect the wires to the correct terminals on the new element. I did 1 wire at a time so as to not make a mistake at reconnecting the wires. Then replace the support bracket with the 2 screws and lower the range top in place and put back the 2 screws that hold the range top in position. VOILA!! Success. It works. The wife is now happy again:)
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- Customer:
- Matthew from JACKSON, TN
- Parts Used:
- 318184400
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Control board burned out
Instructions was simple
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- Customer:
- Denise from Landover, MD
- Parts Used:
- 316538904
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
light bilb went out
replaced it
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- Customer:
- Fritz R. from Carnelian Bay, CA
- Parts Used:
- 318041603
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
A friend shot out the front glass panel of my oven door with a BB gun!!
Just "locked" the hinges, pulled the door off. Removed the broken glass for the door. Switched the handle from the old door to the new one. thPut it back on e hinges.....viola!! new oven door glass!
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- Customer:
- Howard from Wolcott, CT
- Parts Used:
- 316220804
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Cover template to clock control replaced
I had to replace the clock /power panel on the stove. It did not come with a face oover. Both installations were fairly east once the problem was diagnosed. The control part did not show a face plate not included, or needed. I had to reorder the overlay . The job came out perfect and my stove looks like new again.
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- Customer:
- Amy from Corona, CA
- Parts Used:
- 5304524341
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Lens cover for oven light broke.
Really a no brainer, but I do have to say that PartSelect customer service is excellent. My part was located and on it's way within a day and arrived a couple of days later.
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- Customer:
- Douglas from Colrain, MA
- Parts Used:
- 318328010
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
had no instructions on how to remove old door hinge recepticle..
After trying to unscrew a plate on the side, I found that would NOT work at all, the side panel of the stove was behind it. I found a tab that cut-out on 3 sides just above the location of the recepticle, and simply bent that tab out, pulled out the old recepticle, slid in the new recipticle, and put in the screws and then bent back the tab. It was sooo easy once I found that. I repeated in on the other side.
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- Customer:
- Sharon from Foley, AL
- Parts Used:
- 5304524341, 316538904
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Broken globe in oven and burnt out light bulb
Easy as 1-2-3
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- Customer:
- Michael from Whitsett, NC
- Parts Used:
- 318394803
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Convection oven fan would not stay on.
Figured out that light and door switch started the convection fan on when door is closed. Found the switch defective. Found exploded view online of switch in oven. Had to figure out that the range top needed to be removed to access the switch from inside the top part of oven. Unscrewed at least (6) screws to free up the range top. Squeezed the inside switch clips to allow switch to be pulled out from outside of oven. Disconnected electrical receptacle and plugged into new switch. Pushed in new switch til it snapped into place. Reinstalled range top.
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