79046703606 Kenmore Wall Oven - Instructions

Watched the repair video on your web site. Used the video as a step by step guide in the actual repair.

1 Turned off the oven breaker.

2. Removed the oven racks.

3. With a Phillips screwdriver, removed the mounting screws holding the temperature sensor and unplugged it.

4. New sensor plug did not match 20 year old connector. Had to cut and solder splice the connectors.

5. Installed the new sensor and now oven holds temperature steady.

Easy order, quick delivery and easy installation, happy wife.

First you must disconnect power by throwing the circuit breaker off.You need to pull knobs from cook top. check underside to see if it is mounted to counter top, mine was not. Then raise the cook top and support bottom with 2x2's. Mine had three main screws in front, one on the sides and two in the back. The other thing you need to do is loosen the metal plates that have two screws on each plate. Three plates in front, two on each side and three in back. Once these are loosen, you can lift the stove top up to reveal the indicator lights. I found it was easier to support the top with a pan or something while working on it. Replace your indicator light and put everything back together.. It really wasn't to bad.

Turn off breaker to the oven. Removed four knows by pulling them up and out. Using either a large flat blade screwdriver or adjustable wrench (depending upon stove top model) remove threaded style holders at each burner switch control to remove the glass clock control top panel. Remove glass panel and note ldgasket position. Place glass panel on top of stove top on a cloth towel to prevent scratches. Remove 8 screws and remove/lift up burner control assembly. Invert and place on its side to gain access to broken contol switch. Took a picture of wiring and close up off switch to help remember where each wire plugs into switch. Remove 2 Phillips screws from the old switch and remove from panel. Using a flat blade screwdriver gently remove one wire at a time and using knob to orientate the off position of the new switch. Remove each wire one at a time and install on the new switch. Compare numbers on both the old and new switch to assist where each wire goes. The numbers are beside each terminal and using a flashlight and magnifying glass will help making the job easier. DO NOT mix the wires up. Use the 2 longer screws and threaded bracket supplied fasten the new switch to the glass panel. Reinstall the glass panel using the screws removed and thread on clips at each switch and tighten using a large flat blade screwdriver. Be sure to route the wiring to not pinch the wires and install the gasket along the front edge which fills the gap along the burner top and side for a tight seal keeping water and food particles out. The infinite control switch has letters such as H1, H2 etc as the switch fits several models with different wiring diagrams and colours so it's impt to note this when transferring the old wires to the new switch. Also the gasket along the top glass edge ensure to note exactly how it is placed to reinstall to be exact when you reassemble. Replace the 4 control knobs by pushing them on after aligning to fit as they were removed. New switch should be positioned the same as the others with off at the top and a notable click. Be sure to note this when transferring wires from the old to new switch. Turn breaker on. Note: If you have minimal skills this should be left to someone who is an electrician or has repair experience in this field.

It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!

Drawings on web site somewhat hard to read, resulting in more
disassembly than actually necessary. Turns out, simply removing the
threaded plastic securing rings around the bases of the controls frees
up the faceplate, and allows access to the phillips screws that hold down
the bracket. Then it's a simple matter to replace the control unit by
swapping out the leads one at a time from old to new. Be careful when
re-attaching those plastic securing rings, they can cross-thread pretty
easily.

Remove 4 knobs from front of stove.

Remove plastic nuts that are directly underneath oven knobs. Loosen with plyers and unscrew.

Remove front cover.

Remove 8 screws holding down electrical panel. Remove panel. Remove 2 screws holding switch into place. Transfers wires from old switch to new switch so you hook them up correctly. Then reinstall in reverse order. Job complete in 15 minutes.

I usually try the cheapest part to replace when I come to a fork In the road but I wasn't home at the time and my other half called in the "expert". He said it was the clock timer and it would be $450 to replace it. She sent him away and I bought one online for $200 and put it in only to find out that it didn't solve the problem. Did some reading and found out that it could be the sensor. Put an ohm meter on it and found that to be the problem. Left the new clock timer in it anyway so now we're good for another 100,000 cookies or 1000 pizzas, which ever comes first

Phillips screwdriver used to remove 2 screws at top left in oven. Pulled thermostat out until I could get to the connector. Used pliers to hold wire, reconnected new plug , threaded it back into back of oven and reattached the two screws.
Saved $150 on a service repair call.

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

Pulled range out from cabinet, removed back plate, two screws inside oven attaching the temp sensor. Then pulled the sensor and wire through from back. Reverse to replace about Ten minutes
OEM parts plug in same, works great

my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.

unscrew the sensor inside the oven; took off the back of range to access harness of sensor; the replacement part harness did not match up to the original, so we stripped the clip from the end of the part and also the end of the harness in should clip into. after joining the wires together with ceramic wire nuts we tested the oven to make sure all worked AND IT DID!

Replaced the dual infinite switch behind the panel. The wires were easily matched, even though the switch looked a little different. Works perfectly now.

1. Loosened 2 sensor mounting screws and removed them. 2. Tripped range circuit breaker to off. 3. Pulled out the range but left gas connected. 4. Loosened the 4 screws on RH side of the top back panel and carefully pried that side of the panel open. 5. Using fingers, threaded the sensor's wiring harness through insulation and into the oven. 6. Unplugged old probe. 7. plugged in new probe. 8. tugged wiring harness back through insulation behind the oven. 9. Using 2 screws removed in 1 above, mounted new sensor. 10. Repositioned top back panel and fastened it in place. 11. Shoved range back in. 12. Tripped range circuit breaker to on. 13. Reset clock. 14. Set oven to 450 for test tun. 15.