79046703601 Kenmore Wall Oven - Instructions

The hinges had just wore out ofter several years of service. We took the Oven Door of, simply and took the hings off and ordered the new ones. VERY EASY TO DO. The shipping, my my goodness Ordered on Thursday noon time and received the items before 4 pm on Friday. I just can't get over how quickly You shipped this item. Thanks You, and I will use You again, should the need arise. H. Briden Culleoka, TN

Lay gasket across opening after you have cleaned out the crumbs and old gasket. with your left hand spread the opening and gently push the new gasket in, make sure the edges go down and under the cooktop and the panel where the knobs sit. It should be smooth and slant towards the cooktop.

Removed 2 screws holding old temperature sensor inside the oven and gently pulled out the wire till the connector came through the hole. Disconnected old probe and attached new one. Fished the wire back in the hole and replaced the two screws. Then followed the operating instructions for calibrating the oven. Ended up setting it +5 degrees. So far, works great.

1. Moved stove from against the wall. 2. Unplugged the power supply. 3. Removed the electrical pannel cover. 4. Disconnected the quick connect probe plug. 5. Opened the oven and removed the probe. 6. Installed the new probe. 7. Connected the quick connect plug. 8. Reattached the electrical panel cover. 9. Plugged in the electrical supply. 10. Moved the stove back into its original position. ****Note**** THIS IS THE SECOND TIME I REPLACED THE PROBE. THE FIRST REPLACEMENT LASTED ONLY 5 MONTHS!!!!

After removing pots / pans in cabinet below cook top and turning off the power, I was able to remove the panel held by 2 screws. Pulling the old light out was just a little difficult as it came in pieces. New one popped right in, hooked up terminals, replaced the panel and that was it !!

Took door apart, went online to partselect, ordered new glass, and put it back together. Oven looks like new. Makes sense to order the isolation as well when you do the repair

2 People--removed door, then removed and replaced springs followed by door a brief pictorial of the area even printed on the package would have simplified the project

with a schematic of the door, this was fairly easy. since we had to take it completely apart, we cleaned the glass as well and every little nook and cranny. Once we put it back together, the door looked like we just bought it. these days, with whats available online, scary jobs turn out to easy.

Turn off the breaker! Remove the switch knobs. Using a Phillips screwdriver remove the two screws on the affected switch. With a large tip Phillips remove the three screws at the edge of each end of the panel and place it bottom side up on the stove top. Look at the bottom of the switch. Compare those numbers with the numbers on the new switch. Remove the wires one at a time and place them on the corresponding numbered terminal on the new switch. Be sure to put the mounting plate on the stem. Place the new switch in the cover plate and insert screws. Put cover over switches and insert the three screws on each side. Turn breaker on and turn burner switch on. Success!

Husband/wife effort. We located our manual for removing the door and followed instructions. (It's probably online as well.) With the door off, we removed the screws on the side with the defective hinge, took out the old hinge and put in the new one. In trying to replace the door, we couldn't get the lock (upside-down u-shaped piece on the hinge) to rotate over the hinge lever hook on the new hinge. It looked slightly different than the other side (had a bit more hook on it that was in the way). PartSelect sent a new hinge in case the other was defective. (The first arrived in 2 days; the second in 3. No extra charge. Very pleased with the service!) Same trouble. So we filed off the tip of the hook and were able to move the lock in place and put the door back on. The door is not heavy anymore, but doesn't pull in tightly at the top. We thought about taking it off again and trying to position the new hinge a little better to see if it will fit perfectly (it slants down a little compared to the other side.) But it's not so loose at the top that the oven light comes on, so it's usable the way it is. And it looks good, so we're leaving it.

Removed outer glass first ,then worked my way thru to inner glass..

removed the door from the range. removed the 4 layers of glass and carefully set aside the unbroken ones. the 3rd and 4th glasses were held together with a metal frame which had to be dismantled. The old broken glass was rusted and hard to get out of the frame. It had to be cleaned thoroughly of broken glass and rust. the removal process could then be reversed to assemble the parts and re assemble the door to the front of the range

Removed oven door. Removed screws from bottom of door as well as handle screws. Remove inner panel to expose glass. Replaced glass panel and reverse steps. Very easy.

Replaced both springs. Follow instructions in owners manual on removing door. Spring assembly resides in door. Remove screws holding spring assembly in place, then the remaining screws holding the inside of door in place. Raising the side, slide out old spring then slide in the new one - do the same on the opposite side. Replace all the screws - starting with those that hold the spring assembly making sure the latches are straight. Put the door back on making sure to lock "spring locks" detailed in owners manual

Turned off electric at the main box. Removed glass top. Used a razor knife to pry the connections loose so that the new connections could be slid in. Problem was that the element ordered looked entirely different then the original one. Even the hookup was different. But once the connections were made, the ceramic top placed on top, and the electric restored everything seemed okay. The warmer works and when it heats up the warning light turns on. When the warmer cools the warning light goes off as it should.