91149044201 Kenmore Wall Oven - Instructions

Disconnect the power to the oven at the main breaker panel. Open the oven door to the first stop (not all the way open) and pull straight up to remove the oven door from the hinge. Using a 1/4" drive ratchet with 1/2" extension with 1/4" socket, remove the 1/4" sheetmetal screw holding the temperature probe at the center of the broiler mounting plate. Remove the two 1/4" screws holding the broiler mounting plate. Remove the two 1/4" screws holding the broiler element at the ceiling of the oven. Pull the broiler element out from the back of the oven and there should be two electrical connectors at the back of the broiler element. Pull the electrical connectors off of element. Replace the element and re-install in reverse order.

had to remove the oven from the wall. once i realized that i had to take the side wall brackets off before removing the oven it was quite easy. then just had to remove oven door and slide the unit onto a chair while replacing the sensor. put it all back in and the wife was so happy to have her oven back she made me a batch of brownies. yum.

pull out stove, unbolt old temp sensor inside stove with 1/4 nutdriver, go to back of stove and take off cover and unhook sensor and hook up new one, put all back together and slide stove back in place.

Just like everyone else it was a simple r&r. However, when removing or installing wire clips I make it a habit to hold the ends with needle nose to prevent any: "snap!" ooops! However to prevent burning the element in the first place, it is strongly suggested to push that broil button twice so that it is set to low temp. It is too easy to use the high setting which will shorten the elements life by 40 - 60 %. Also, keep the oven door partially open when using the broiler. Like the manual tells you!!!

Watched video

Oven door must be removed briefly while old false bottom is slid out and replaced with new one. Oven door is easily replaced and oven is like new.

First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches. I removed the sensor and disconnected the connector.

I checked various sites on the net and decided that the temperature sensor was the problem. The GE price for the replacement part was about $105, most of the other sites offered the sensor in the $70 range. PartSelect $12.95 When the part arrived, I removed a small self taping screw, pulled the high temperature wire connector into the oven space, disconnected the quick disconnect fitting, attached the new temperature sensor, pushed the connecting wire into its hole, replaced the screw and that was it. I probably saved about $200 in parts and labor over what a local repairman would have charged. Oh yes!! I first disconnected the power at the breaker box. Very important.

Use screwdriver to pull down tab on both hinges. Good hind on door and as you lower to full open door will come off. Pull old bottom, insert new bottom and put door back in slots. Close and then reopen to first position and push tabs back up to lock position

took bulb out, but new one in lol

Replaced bottom bake heat unit

Sensor is in rear and on top ov oven. What could be a 10" job took 45". My problem was the oven door was diffinately in the way. Also I wear bifocals which makes me tilt head to see nuts. I felt like a contortionist. HINT: remove door and give yourself some room to work.

Circuit breaker off. Watched You Tube video to easily remove and set aside oven door, and shelves, unscrewed back wall cover over convection heating element, and slid out cover over floor heating element. Used ratchet to easily disconnect both old heating elements & pull from rear wall, holding onto two clip electrical connectors while gently pulling out plenty of slack as wires fed through insulation material. Concern of "losing" wires back into oven wall not truly a problem if careful. Both sets of connectors pulled off, easily and then slid onto replacement elements without trouble. Circular convection element screwed back into place and cover replaced. Replacement floor element was similar, but not identical, to original. Wires connected fine, but base plate and two screw holes to attach to rear wall were of different size. It rests underneath oven lower cover on its own feet, so really didn't require support. Being DIY obsessive, I nonetheless used its base plate as template to drill two new holes in oven back, secured with old screws. Replaced cover, shelves, door, and woking like new!

The thry was rusty I took the door out And i slide out the thry it's take five minutes I did it by myself now my oven Look like a new I'm so happy now I get the part quickly thank you

1) Shut off power to oven
2) Removed oven door using snap down hinges on door
3) Removed 4-phillips head screws holding the oven frame to cabinets
4) Pulled oven out of cabinet and set it on stool in front of opening
5) Remove 2-hex screws holding metal shield covering the electrical wiring on back of oven
6) Unplugged bad thermostat connector
7) Removed the single hex screw holding thermostat inside the oven
8) Pulled the thermostat and lead wire from oven
9) Fed the new thermostat wire into inside back of oven
10) Reverse steps 1-7