JGW8130ADB Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Marvin from DECATUR, GA
- Parts Used:
- 12001655
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The oven did not heat, but the top burners worked fine.
1. Slowly pull the stove from wall. 2. Unplug 120 volts plug from outlet. 3.Turned off the gas outlet. 4. Open the stove door, remove the racks, then unscrew (2) screws that hold the short oven sensor in place. 5. Slowly pull sensor out of it's housing. Remove the clip that holds the sensor. Install new sensor using the clip. Push sensor back through the hole opening. Screw the (2) screws into the mount to secure the sensor. 6. Plug the 120 volt plug into the wall outlet. Turn on the gas outlet. Test stove by turning on oven. It works like a new stove. Wife is happy, and Thanks Giving Dinner is on! Reverse your steps to secure your stove. A total of 25 minutes after cleaning the dust under stove. Thanks for everything. By the way, Thanks Giving Dinner was delicious.
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- Customer:
- Dominick from CLARKS SUMMIT, PA
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
Oven would not ignite
Very easy, video helped tremendously
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- Customer:
- Nola from Enid, OK
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Stove Would Not Light To Heat Up.
Removed grates and bottom plate two screws holding it. Turn oven light on and unwire the wire. Unscrewed the two screws and replace. This took my husband about ten min. And for him he says that this was a walk in the park. He says if he can do it anyone can. This was one of the easy honey dews. Good luck with yours. Nola & keith
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- Customer:
- Brian from Spotswood, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
oven would not heat up fully, smelled of gas.
Took off the top plate at the bottom of the oven, and the flame spreader, removed 2 screws on the igniter, pulled out the broiler tray and unplugged it. Took longer to get off the floor than it did to replace the part.
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- Customer:
- Matt from Arlington, AL
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven was slow to get to temp and not holding temp
Thanks to previous posters, this seemed to be an igniter issue, and I found the idea of swapping the broiler igniter for the bottom one particularly good - I knew exactly what part was broken and how easy/hard the job would be prior to ordering. The part used snap in electric components, so the only work was in removing and re-installing the parts. Working in the oven was by FAR the most difficult part of the entire process.
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- Customer:
- carmine from ABINGTON, PA
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
gas oven would not light
Remove oven door, remove burner bar, replace ignitor, splice wires together because the old electrical connectors had melted together. Shipping was fast and extra wire, insulation and ceramic wire nuts were included.
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- Customer:
- Karen from DAYTON, OH
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Gas would come on, would not ignite. Oven not heating.
Super easy. Turn off gas and unplug. Lift door off hinges, just pull up on it. Take racks out. Lift floor of oven out. You may need to release clips in the back of the oven, but mine were not engaged. Remove wing nut from shield plate and lift plate off. Using nutcracker, or Phillips screwdriver, remove screws holding the igniter to the brace plate. Carefully pull wires from the back of the oven wall. Carefully unplug the old part. Carefully plug in the new part. Feed wires back into the oven wall and install fiberglass padding. Replace screws, shield plate, wing nut, oven floor, oven racks and door. Door just slides back onto hinges. Watch the video on parts elect. Couldn't have been easier. Saved $500 on replacing my oven. $40 for DIY repair. Awesome!!!
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- Customer:
- Ernest from CINCINNATI, OH
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
The oven igniter would glow red but gas did not come on to light the burner.
I watched a repair video, unplugged the electric,turned off the gas valve and disconnected the gas line. removed the shelves and burner tray. removed 2 screws and unplugged the igniter. Replaced the igniter and put tray and racks in.Hooked up gas and plugged in the electrical plug. Job done....
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- Customer:
- Cynthia from AURORA, MN
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
No heat in oven
Checked igniter it glowed but never got hot enough to open gas valve. I switched igniter from broiler to oven and oven burner lit. Switched igniter back to broiler as wires were shorter than the oven igniter. Ordered part from number and picture comparison. It took about 20 minutes to get it installed and all stove parts back together.
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- Customer:
- Vincent from Lewes, DE
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The broiler would not lite at all and the oven would lite occasionally but would not maintain temperature.
I replaced the igniter in both the oven and the broiler. This was my first time ever working on a range.
I removed the oven door for easy access. To replace the oven igniter, I took the bottom floor out of the oven. The igniter is readily visible at the rear of the burner. I removed the two screws holding the igniter with a socket wrench. The screws were somewhat stubborn but yielded rather quickly. I gently pulled the two wires attached to the igniter from the back of the oven until the connector was exposed. I disconnected the old igniter and connected the new one. Then I simply reversed the the procedure, tucking the connector and wire back through the hole it came from and re - installed the two screws in the bracket. The insulation provided with the kit was used to plug the hole in the back of the oven.
To replace the broiler igniter, I essentially followed the same procedure. However, I chose not to remove the broiler baffle. This made it more difficult to both remove and re-install the two screws holding the ignitor. Otherwise, everything else went smoothly. If I had to do it again, I'd remove the baffle.
I removed the oven door for easy access. To replace the oven igniter, I took the bottom floor out of the oven. The igniter is readily visible at the rear of the burner. I removed the two screws holding the igniter with a socket wrench. The screws were somewhat stubborn but yielded rather quickly. I gently pulled the two wires attached to the igniter from the back of the oven until the connector was exposed. I disconnected the old igniter and connected the new one. Then I simply reversed the the procedure, tucking the connector and wire back through the hole it came from and re - installed the two screws in the bracket. The insulation provided with the kit was used to plug the hole in the back of the oven.
To replace the broiler igniter, I essentially followed the same procedure. However, I chose not to remove the broiler baffle. This made it more difficult to both remove and re-install the two screws holding the ignitor. Otherwise, everything else went smoothly. If I had to do it again, I'd remove the baffle.
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- Customer:
- michael from newhall, CA
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Oven wouldn't light
Same as the other entries in this section.
The only thing I would add is a hint for removing the broiler igniter. As you can see from the oven igniter, the wires connect with a plug. For the top igniter, the broiler, the plug goes through the insulation and then through a hole in the rear panel of the oven. So, when you pull on it, you will think it is stuck or the wire is pulled taut. That is because the plug hangs up on the rear panel.
Stick your finger through the square hole that you can see inside the oven, and follow the wire through the insulation. You will feel the small round hole in the back. You have to wiggle the wire up and around a bit to get the plug to fit through the hole. Then you will have the slack you need to change the plugs.
That way, you don't have to pull the whole oven out and break all the caulking seals.
The only thing I would add is a hint for removing the broiler igniter. As you can see from the oven igniter, the wires connect with a plug. For the top igniter, the broiler, the plug goes through the insulation and then through a hole in the rear panel of the oven. So, when you pull on it, you will think it is stuck or the wire is pulled taut. That is because the plug hangs up on the rear panel.
Stick your finger through the square hole that you can see inside the oven, and follow the wire through the insulation. You will feel the small round hole in the back. You have to wiggle the wire up and around a bit to get the plug to fit through the hole. Then you will have the slack you need to change the plugs.
That way, you don't have to pull the whole oven out and break all the caulking seals.
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- Customer:
- ALAN from LUCK, WI
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Igniter Would Glow But Stove Wouldn't Light
I noticed that the ignitor would glow but the stove wouldn't light - I got the model number of the stove and googled the maytag model number. Came upon your website and realized that 94% of the time the problem was the amps were not enough to light the stove. I looked at all of the stories on how easy it was to fix. I ordered the part and received it within 3 days. I opened the door part way and lifted it straight up to remove it. I pulled out the bottom broiler plate by grabbing the back on pulling up. I undscrewed the wing nut of the flame bar and had easy access to the igniter. I removed the two nuts from the old igniter. Unplugged the igniter from the easy access door from the back and plugged in the new igniter. Replaced the access door and attached the igniter with the two nuts. Put the flame bar back on, put the broiler plate back on, put the door back on, plugged in the stove turned it on and success. It was so easy. I know in our area I would have paid near $200 for a service technician to come out and do what I did in approx. 20 Minutes and $50 for the part. Thank you so much for you website to help us not so talented appliance repair homeowners.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Orange, CA
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Replacement of igniter
Removed two nuts and one screw to replace old igniter with new one. Replaced the nuts and screw. Turned on the oven, and it is working fine.
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- Customer:
- James from Lino Lakes, MN
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Bottom oven burner wouldn't light.
If your igniter glows but the burner doesn't light, your igniter is more than likely bad. It should have at least 3.2V to gas valve when the igniter is glowing in order to open the gas valve. The repair is very easy with only a 5/16" nut driver equired to remove and replace the igniter. It's pretty much a plug and play reair.
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