JJW8527CAS Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

Searching the internet, I found the part I needed for the lowest price at PartSelect.com. I reviewed the exploded parts diagram for my oven at PartSelect.com to get a general overview of how the oven was assembled - then I read the customer stories to get some hints from those who had done this repair before. My oven is a combination wall oven with a microwave on top. First, I shut off the power to the oven at the breaker box and then removed the thin, long rails from each side of the oven using a philips screwdriver to remove the 4 screws. This then allowed me to remove the plastic faceplate from around the microwave. Opening the oven door, I found 4 philips pan head screws underneath the control panel and removed them. The control panel will then easily lift up and then out. There are 3 areas where you must disconnect electrical connections on the control module - pay a bit of attention here, but they are sized differently and are not hard to match back up appropriately when you reconnect them to the new module. These connection plugs pull straight out with no tool needed. The old control module is held in place with 4 hex-head screws I removed with a nutdriver. After you remove the old module, it is a good time to clean the inside of the clear diplay area of the front panel with a paper towel dampened with a bit of window cleaner. Allow this to dry and then install your new control module reversing the procdures you used to remove it and reverse the procedures to reinstall the control panel, the microwave faceplate and the side rails. Cut the power back on and sit back as your wife finally thinks you are the genius that you truly are........

Screws removed from below panel. The most difficult procedure was removing the panel from the oven unit to get to the part. After lifting up and out, the panel back was revealed. Disconnected old part by pulling the three connections and replacing with new part.

Removed old assembly, attached wires to new and inserted into space for same. Of course you must turn off the range circuit breaker. The part that took the most time was removing the old assembly. Once that was done, the rest took only a few minutes.

Turned off power at beaker box. Opened oven door. Removed four screws from botton of display panel. Lifted display panel up and out to remove. Unplugged three wire bundles from back of circuit board. Removed four screws holding circuit board and replaced circuit board. Reassembled panel. Turned power back on. Presto.....saved $200.00 from repair estimate.

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

We remove three screws of the frame a exchange the ss glass door , then inserted the frame and secure the screws back in place. It looks like a new oven and all the appliances are now ss. It took a while to arrive from the factory but the wait was worth while. The service was excellent .I will consider using Part Selelect.com again. Thx, Gloria R.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

carefully. there are many connectors to the board, and while they are pretty much color coded, and I had the wiring schematic, I had to put the new board next to the old, and remove and install each connector one by one. If I had removed all connectors and installed the new board, I would never have been able to reinstall the connections correctly.

Although only one side hinge had snapped, I replaced both sides with new oven door hinges. Followed the website video installation directions and all went well; the new hinges work perfectly.

Bought a pair for needed door hinges for replacement. Found a DIY video on You Tube showing technique to replace. Door removal was a bit awkward but hinge replacement and door reinstallation was as detailed in video. Could not nor would not have tackled this project without video. Premium quality parts sent and received within days of ordering. Wife happy therefore so am I.

Replacing the electronic Clock Assembly was a piece of cake - just as earlier DIYers had experienced.

The door hinges were not any harder to replace, but it does not affect the behavior of the door. The light stays on unless we keep the door closed with a hook and anchor ( bent piece of metal and a wooden wedge). Not pretty, but effective. Obviously a design flaw... keeping door closed in this way forces all airflow to top and has melted the paint into a wrinkled surface. We had a service person replace the gasket seal and hinges before, but the problem still persists. I did discover that soaking the light cover in a cola drink overnight did a splendid job of cleaning off the gunk.

1. Remove four screws on metal panel between top and lower oven doors. Pull the panel forward. You may need to open the top door partially to ease removal of panel.
2. Reach behind panel and unplug wire connector from old switch.
3. With panel free, squeeze ears on old switch and push through opening to remove.
4. Insert new switch in to hole and push from front to seat the switch. BE CAREFUL NOT to mess with the ears--if you try to splay them out (to better seat the switch) the switch will come apart.
5. Hold the panel up to opening to connect the wire harness to the switch.
6. Realign the metal plate to holes for screws and insert screws. (You may have to twist and turn to get the panel lined up.)
Done!

Same as the others to get to the bad clock. My old part was a circuit board which was made with white material and manufactured by RoberShaw. The new one was on a green material and by another manufacture. The new one felt a little heavier and look like there were more componets on it. However the plug-in connections and the mounting method was exactly the same. Before reassembly, I used a long handled brush to clean out most of the baking gunk that
had accumulated in this area and I used a clean wipeing cloth to clean the inside glass for the display. The best thing about this was the part came on the Thursday before
Hollowee, I installed it as soon as I got home from work. My wife started baking cookies and cup cakes for trick or
treat and all is well.

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!