WW27430BC Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

It took us longer to do this repair than others report, but the repair was relatively easy. As with others, our clock display was getting very dim. In fact, when we turned on the oven to bake, the clock and temperature display would both completely dim. While we were not sure that the clock assembly was the part we needed, the comments from others led us to believe that replacing the clock assembly would likely fix the problem – which it did!

To be safe, we first turned off the power to the oven. Next, using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, we removed the three screws on the top of the control panel and the four screws on the bottom of the control panel. Now, the control panel is completely loose from the oven except for the two wired connectors running between the clock assembly and the oven. The two wired connectors take a little bit of care and effort to remove since a “lip” secures them. For the four-wire connector, we were able to remove the connector by wiggling and pulling on it. For the other connector, we needed to use a small flat head screw driver to bend back the lip on the clock assembly, and then still needed to wiggle and pull on the connector to get it loose. Be careful not to pull on the wires!

Note that a connector does not terminate the ribbon cable. To remove the ribbon cable, squeeze together the two tabs on each end of the connector on the clock assembly and pull up on the connector (i.e., pull away from the board). The part of the connector that you are squeezing will rise up slightly and the ribbon cable will rise up with it. (You might want to practice with the new clock assembly to see how this works as it is easier to unhook the connector when the ribbon cable is not connected.) The ribbon cable has two holes in it that fit over two pegs on the part of the connector that rises up. The ribbon cable should simply pull out once the connector is opened up.

Use a ¼” nut driver to remove the four hex head screws that attach the clock assembly to the control panel. The clock assembly is now free from the control panel, but we still needed to pull on the clock assembly to remove it since the fit was very tight.

Assembly is simply reversing the above steps. To fit the new clock assembly onto the control panel, we needed to use a pair of pliers to first slightly bend the metal tabs on the control panel outward, as the fit (as noted) was very tight. After fitting the clock assembly into place, tighten it down with the four hex head screws. If you have not already done so, release the ribbon cable assembly on the new clock assembly by squeezing the tabs and pulling up. Fit the two holes in the ribbon cable over the two pegs on the connector, and then simply push the connector piece down until it snaps into place (making sure that the ribbon cable stays on the two pegs). Take the control panel back to the oven and reconnect the other two wire connectors. To finish up, place the control panel back on the oven, replace the seven screws, and then turn the power back on.

If your experience is like ours, you will be amazed at how bright the new display is!

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

The repair was really simple. I removed the 2 screws holding the baking element to the oven wall, pulled the element out about 2 inches, lifted the front of the element and pulled it out more to reach the 2 wires. I disconnected the two wires and reversed the procedure for installation, inserted the 2 screws and turned the power back on. The element works fine.

Removed three screws on top and 4 on bottom to open the compartment of the display clock. Four more screws were removed to take the display clock itself. Three connecting wires were easily remomed (pay attention to the thin wide wire connection, you will need to pull the tabs from both end to free the wire connection). Put the new display light in place. Connected the wire and put the screws back.
I am not a mechanic by any means and I think everyone should be able to do it easily, as long as they know how to unscrew. (dont forget to shut off the power to the oven while doing this)
Somone had suggested that they can fix the faulty part. I will send this to them for $10 only (to cover shipping and handling). They can repair and sell it. My unit is functioning except for the infamous display failure.

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.

The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

For display replacement: remove top three phillip head screws and four underneath bezel screws. Detach 3 wire harness sockets. With control panel assembly detached from oven face remove two screws holding display control using socket driver and replace with new. Reverse steps for installation.
Hinge replacement: Follow guidelines written by previous comments. Before re-installing door in to oven cavity slots be sure to remove temporary hinge "open" pin (small round-head pin approx. 3/8" long which holds the spring loaded hinge in a position to insert it through the oven door housing assy. slots). Also download the PDF service manual found on the web!

Bought a pair for needed door hinges for replacement. Found a DIY video on You Tube showing technique to replace. Door removal was a bit awkward but hinge replacement and door reinstallation was as detailed in video. Could not nor would not have tackled this project without video. Premium quality parts sent and received within days of ordering. Wife happy therefore so am I.

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

Although only one side hinge had snapped, I replaced both sides with new oven door hinges. Followed the website video installation directions and all went well; the new hinges work perfectly.

After turning off the breaker, my husband removed the Oven Control Panel Cover. the Display assembly was connected with two multiple wire plugs. Once those were unplugged he plugged them into the new display assembly, reinstalled it, reinstalled the control panel. Turned hte breaker back on and HOORAY, after nearly a year with no oven display it still seem odd to beable to read the clock and oven temp!

took out the old dome cover and replaced it with a new one by unscrewing and replaced the new one and a fiberglass gasket. simple.