W30400PG Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

I removed the three screws that was on top of the display enclosure. I then removed the four screws on the bottom of the display enclosure.

I unplugged the two connectors going to the old enclosure and removed the enclosure to the kitchen table. I then pressed the two locks on the ribbon cable lock and pulled up on the ribbon cable lock. I was unsure how to do this, but if you press the two tabs and slightly pull up on the lock, the ribbon cable will come free.

I then removed the four screws holding on the old display and put the new part in. Fastened with the four screws and connected the ribbon cable, squeezing tabs and raising the black lock, inserting ribbon cable and pressing down to lock in place.

I then took the enclosure to the oven, connected the other two sets of wires and mounted the enclosure with the three upper scres and four bottom screws. Took me about 15 minutes. My $148 PartsSelect part was $267 locally.

Turned off power to stove
Removed control knobs and retaining screws under the knobs.
Opened oven door.
REmoved screws (4) holding the face plate to the stove.
pulled the panel downwards.
Unscreewed clock circuit board.
Removed connectors (3) (See Below)
NOTE the flat ribbon needs to be removed by pinching the ends of the black connector , liftiing and GENTLY pulling the ribbon out of the connector. The black connector remains on the circuit board.
When in stalling the ribbon, pinch the ends of the black connector and lift slightly, insert ribbon, then push down on the loose side of the connector until it snaps shut ,forming a tight connection.

Reverse steps

I have only two things to add to the other repair stories on this site: (1) Unlike the ribbon cables inside desktop computers, the ribbon cable on this range is entirely separate from the connector, which is permanently attached to the clock assembly. There are clips on the top of the connector at each end. Push them in and raise them gently to release the ribbon cable. (2) There are two Molex connectors attached to the clock assembly. The pins for one of them were bent on the new clock assembly I received. Before installing it, I spent some time gently coaxing those pins back into alignment. Use your fingernail, and be patient.

unscrewed the top face plate assembly disconnect 2 wire harnesses 4 screws to release display clock 1 wire harness and then reverse order

I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted

The front panel was removed by unscrewing six screws just above the oven door and then four nuts were removed fron the burner assy. using a nut driver. The circuit board with the clock assy was then available. It was then just a matter of removing three cable connectors and a ribbon cable connector and two screws to remove the old clock assy. The reverse was done to install the new clock assy. The whole operation took about 15 minutes.

1) Unplug Appliance
2) Remove stove front (4 hex-head screws)
(Note: support front while removing screws)
3) disconnect (3) wiring harnesses
(Note: exercise care when revoving "data bus", release with small "dogs" on each side of plug.)
4) Remove Clock assembly (2 hex-head screws)
5) Replace Clock assembly (2 hex-head screws)
6) Reconnect (3) wiring harnesses (reseat bus plug dogs)
7) Reattach stove front (4 hex-head screws)
8) Plug appliance in to power outlet

Note: Before the repair, all functions and displays worked just fine, they just weren't illuminated so you couldn't read any thing. It really steams me that I had to pay $141 to replace a 50 cent light.

Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Philips head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.

I replaced the heating element but that didn’t help. So then I replaced the oven sensor and that didn’t work either. Both were pretty easy to do but I’ve now spend $170 and my oven still isn’t working. I called number listed and got a recording that all agents were busy and there was a high call volume so I can’t get any help.

My daughter & I followed the instructions in your video and had fun repairing the door. The video showed exactly how to do the repair. I hope I don't need any appliance parts very soon but I will certainly pull up your web site if I do. Thanks for an excellent instruction video.

John - Hot Springs Village, AR

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

I first turned off the circuit breaker for the range. I then I removed the four hex screws from the underside of the panel and then dropped the panel to expose the clock assembly. I then removed the two screws holding it in place, disconnected the cables and removed the old unit. I then reversed the procedure to install the new unit. I next turned on the circuit breaker restoring power to the range. And like magic I once again had light. I know I must have made by Daddy proud. I should have done it sooner. Thank you for making it so easy by sharing the "how to's" with me. It was especially helpful to have the model number.

Turn off power to the stove. Pop off the burner knobs and remove the screws attaching the controls to the front panel. Open the oven door and remove the four screws attaching the panel to the oven frame. The panel slides down giving easy access to the circuit board. Remove the two connectors and the ribbon cable attached to the board. There are small clips on the side of the ribbon cable connector that release the ribbon cable. Unscrew the board and install new board. Reattach the cables, put the panel back in place and attach. Reattach the burner controls to the panel, pop the knobs back on, power the stove back on, put on a pair of sunglasses to view the now blazingly bright display and admire your work.

As described by many others before. Turned off the power at the circuit breaker panel for the house. Unscrewed the front panel, disconnected the three connections to the old assembly and unscrewed the assembly.

Cleaned a few pieces then screwed in an connected the new assembly, put it all back together, turned on the power, said a prayer and IT WORKED!

This is the second clock I have had to put in this unit in about that many years. The first time I disassembled far to many things. This time I knew to only unscrew the front panel and side triangle plates. The process was much faster the second time. I hope this is not a chronic problem though.