W30400BC Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

First I took the screws off of the top hood which can be found right underneatch, this allowed me to access the panel bolts and unscreww them. We then got it far enough so that we could easily replace the old with the new and plug things back in and we were good to go. I am not sure but we must have save hundreds of dollars in a repairman.. This website is awesome..

This is the second clock I have had to put in this unit in about that many years. The first time I disassembled far to many things. This time I knew to only unscrew the front panel and side triangle plates. The process was much faster the second time. I hope this is not a chronic problem though.

Turned off the breaker. Removed the screws under the front panel and eight screws behind the burner controls (two each). I then slid out the panel and laid it flat on top of the stove. Removed the three connectors. Most difficult was the ribbon connector: Squeeze the clips at each end and slide the top half of the connector up. Then the ribbon slides out (practice on the new part). Only two screws held the assembly in. Reverse the process with the new assembly. Worked great!

piece of cake KILL POWER AT BREAKER BOX. Remove burner knobs exposing 4 screws. Open oven door exposing 4 philips srews, four 1/4 hex head screws, and 2 philps screws for end caps. Had to pull out range about an inch (less) away from countertop. Remove screws. Move end caps away from face plate.Pull out face plate. Pull down / out bottom plate to expose Assembly. Unclip wire connection, carefully pull out ribbon connection. Remove 2 screws. Install in reverse.

My microwave is stacked on this stove. I had to pull cover off to slide part off. screws were a snap. only problem was the slip catches on the ribon strips. Sperating with flat head was scary but worked fine.

Cut of electricity. Opened the oven door and removed some screw that were over the door that let a plate be removed. Then that let the part drop down that was holding the clock. I removed 2 screws that was holding the clock in place, unplugged the 3 connectors that feed the clock, attached the 2 screws back in that held the clock, put the part back up in place, added the plate and was done. Turned the power back on. I was delighted when I saw the clock light on. Easy to install.

I first turned the power off to the stove at the junction box. Removed the control panel that contained the clock assembly by removing 4 phillips head screws. While my wife held the control panel, I disconnected the two pin connectors and one ribbon connector attached to the clock. I then removed the two phillips screws holding the clock assembly in place. To disconnect the ribbon connector, press the release buttons on the side in and the center loosens and pulls out, releasing the ribbon. There are two plastic tabs that fit into two guide holes on the ribbon. The best part of this is that 6 months ago, two number keys and the timer button had quit functioning and I thought I was going to have to replace the touch panel also. Apparently it was a problem with the circuit board on the clock assembly because everything works now! My ife is very happy!

Once the display became too dim to read, I removed the front panel to determine how to access the piece and to check part numbers so that I could order the proper piece. Once the part arrived, being familiar with the disassembly, it was simple enough to replace the part quickly. The part came out with two screws and the connections were standard electronic multi plug, making the replacement simple. When we turned the power to the unit on, it worked first time.

Loosened the contol panel until I was able to get to the Digital Display board.
Removed the three cables and the screws that held the display unit to the control panel.
Reversed the procedure to instll new digital clock display unit.

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

I replaced the heating element but that didn’t help. So then I replaced the oven sensor and that didn’t work either. Both were pretty easy to do but I’ve now spend $170 and my oven still isn’t working. I called number listed and got a recording that all agents were busy and there was a high call volume so I can’t get any help.

My daughter & I followed the instructions in your video and had fun repairing the door. The video showed exactly how to do the repair. I hope I don't need any appliance parts very soon but I will certainly pull up your web site if I do. Thanks for an excellent instruction video.

John - Hot Springs Village, AR

I removed the screws that hold the front of the range on, removed the two screws holding the clock assembly, and replaced the old with the new. It was brainlessly easy.

The front panel was removed by unscrewing six screws just above the oven door and then four nuts were removed fron the burner assy. using a nut driver. The circuit board with the clock assy was then available. It was then just a matter of removing three cable connectors and a ribbon cable connector and two screws to remove the old clock assy. The reverse was done to install the new clock assy. The whole operation took about 15 minutes.

Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Philips head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.