S176 Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

needed hammer to help loose screws .pulled out and replaced leement

Simple plug in.

The job was easier than I thought it would be. Turned off power at breaker first! Used phillips screwdriver to remove 2 fairly tight screws located on the vent side of the switch mounting plate. Flipped over plate and wrote down the 4 spade tip wire colors and location on switch. Removed the wires from the switch and removed the switch by prying off the locking washer with a sharpened/filed thin putty knife to get under it and then a flat blade screwdriver to finish removing it. Put the new switch in, hooked up the spade tip wires, mounted the plate back on and turned on the power. Worked great and I even impressed my Wife!

I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

Installing the new switch was EASY. However, removing the old switch was very difficult due to the nuts holding the switch in place being designed as clamps not threaded screws and nuts.

Cut power!
Removed old switch.Only problem was new switch had shifted the four 'spade' connectiors on back so when I was done fan and light switch was crossed.

Everything PartSelect had on their site was perfectly correct.

REALLY appreciated the way PartsSelect handled everything, I will be back for further help on other things.

After accessing the switch and removing the wires(four wires as the rocker switch operates both fan and oven light) I attached the wires to the new switch. However , I was unable to mount the switch in place as I could not get the spring - clip type of fasteners to slip on.
Fortunately, there was space to drill a hole on each side of the switch and I used brass machine screws
and nuts to hold the switch. The round-head screw
tops show on top of the stove, but at least the new switch is in place and operating.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

Regrettably I have been unable to replace the bake element since the two screws are completely stuck. This doesn't appear to be a common problem.

Took parts off from under the range, and replaced the motor. Then put the unit back under the stove and connected the vent.

Everything went fine. No trouble.

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!

removed blower housing secured to floor with two screws then removed flexible vent pipe from blower housing then removed blower removed blower wheel and motor put new motor and wheel on put back on stove thats it..

Important: 1) ALWAYS REMOVE ALL POWER FROM THE STOVE. 2) Do not "preassemble" the ceramic recepticle and wire kit. The wires are nearly impossible to remove from the receptacle once inserted. The wire colors have changed and are not the same color as your old wiring. 3) All the fasteners are sheet metal screws, different sizes (note where they are used) and are easly stripped if tighted too hard. Either unplug the stove or open the main circuit breaker to the stove. Take out the right-hand burner cartridge and place it aside. remove the center screw and metal strip from the old receptacle (you will reuse this item). Loosen the control panel from the front of the stove by opening the oven door and remove the four screws holding the control panel in place (Screws are located on the underside of the control panel). The panel slides down about 1/4 inch and tilts forward exposing all the control wiring. Ues a hex-headed driver or large screw driver and remove the drain plug from the drain pan. Use care as there is a small gasket under the drain plug. Remove the four screws holding the burner's pan to the stainless steel stove top. Move the wire bundles aside and GENTLY pull the burner pan half-way out of the stove (it is a tight fit but do not use force. Remove the screws and strap holding the old receptacle from the pan. Withdraw the pan from the stove. (good time to clean the pan and drain plug) With the old receptacle now exposed, assemple the new receptacle and wire harness wire for wire carfully replacing each lead. The new wire harness is inserted into the new receptacle thru the top of the receptacle and will lock in place within the new receptacle. The blades on the end of the wires must point toward the slots in the receptacle. The receptacle wires will be pointing down. Trace each wire and be certain the correct wire is switched out with the proper lug on the control knobs within the stove (needle nose plyers will help but do not force the connections). Gently push the pan halfway back into the stove and attach the new receptacle to the pan with the small metal strap across the back of the receptacle with screws. Push the pan all the way back into the stove and re-attach the pan to the underside of the stove top with sheet metal screws. Re-install the drain plug and drain tube. Tilt the control panel, slide the panel back up into the front of the stove and reattach the control panel with sheet metal screws. Re-install the small metal clip into the front of the receptacle (one end of the clip slides under the stove's stainless top frame). Reenergize. Reset the clock. You're done.

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done