SVE47600WC Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

Turned the circuit breaker to "off"
Unbolted the unit from its cabinet (4 screws - visible when the oven doors are open - secured the unit in its cabinet)
Slid the unit out of the wall about 2 inches
Removed the control panel.
Unbolted the cooling fan assembly
Unplugged the assembly from the wiring harness
Removed the cooling fan from the oven

Plugged in the new cooling fan
Bolted the new fan in place
Replaced the control panel
Slid the unit back into position
Bolted the unit in place
Turned the circuit breaker back on
Tested

No problems - the hardest part was having to reach to the back of the oven from the front.

replaced broiler element - still would not heat.
Called repairman and the control panel is out and will cost around 200.00 to replace. To replace the element, my son helped as my arms weren't long enough. Removed two screws at back and two screws on front of broiler brace. Pulled out and removed wires and hooked them to the new element. Had to turn off circuit breaker. Pushed element back into the holes and replaced screws.
In this instance, it would have been cheaper had I just called the repairman first. However, I have an extra broiler element in case it goes out again.

I was told by appliance repairman that sensor and electronic panel were out - so ordered both as PartSelect was less expensive (about 1/2) than service call price. Sensor was in stock and arrived in 2 days, panel was special order from factory.
Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on. Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal.
Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.

The problem was easy to find since the board had caught fire and you could tell which board was bad. I had to remove the protecting jacket. Then removed two screws. I disconnected and reconnected the wires one at a time so I could tell where they went.
The hardest part was pulling the stove out and cleaning the dust and split food.

SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.

Diagnosis is the important aspect. Ovens have plunger-type switches to tell the "brain" door is closed, both for the light AND to allow initiation of self cleaning. Finally discovered one of those switches was "scratchy" in operation and unreliable in closing the circuit. (Push the plungers in and out several times and observe the light.) If not 100% reliable, replace that switch (cheap and easy with a Phillips screwdriver.) Initial guess was a $major "brain"-electronics problem but it was merely a sticky switch. Strange since the unit is about a year and a half old and rarely used. Found the part easily with PartSelect, and it came via UPS quickly.

I screwed the light lens into the socket and went beautifully. Better than the original. (I am a retired, 75 yr. old woman).

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Stove is over 16 years old. I am getting new kitchen in the summer, did not want to buy another stove! I looked on line and found how easy it was to replace element. We turned off power as suggested and removed element to make sure it matched the one on line. I ordered element on Sunday afternoon and it arrived Tuesday afternoon, FedEx ground. Insert the clips and a couple screws and we were having oven fries for dinner. I could not be happier and pretty darn proud of myself for saving a couple hundred dollars on a repair man!

I slide the range out and unplugged it from the outlet. I removed the back of the oven ( 8 screws ) using a cordless drill and phillips bit then with a phillips screwdriver I removed the oven sensor (2 screws) then I installed the new sensor , reinstalled the oven back , plugged the range in , slide it back into place and that was it. This repair took about 10 mins and the oven works perfectly. Thanks !

Sunday, four days before Thanksgiving, our oven would not bake properly. A quick check indicated the top element was not working. What to do? Where to get a part in time to fix for Thanksgiving dinner? The answer was easy - PartSelect. I had the part in my hands on Tuesday AM. Oven was fixed in 15 minutes and my wife was baking pies within an hour. All worked well and yes, we had a wonderful trukey dinner. Great service !

Removed old part with a pair of pliers and plugged the new part into place.

Very simple and the self cleaning feature works again.

Blower motor stopped working and the breaker tripped. Horrible smell! from the somewhere in the oven. Looking at the wiring diagram told me that there was a relay board feeding he motor, but I had no idea where it was, which took a little Internet searching to find it. Finally seeing that it was in the rear I was happy to see that there was enough flexible gas line to pull out the stove enough to check the board, which was fried. I replaced the board and then looked for the reason it smoked and found that the blower motor was shorted (and stank horribly).
It was straighforward to replace, but when I put everything back, NOTHING worked at all - no lights on the control panel, nothing. I then checked the voltage across the terminals and saw 240V and was puzzled until saw that there was no 120V to neutral where the plug connected to the back of the stove. The outlet, however, had 120V to neutral. Since it was a molded plug I thought that was not likey to be a cmmon failure, so after killing th breaker I took off the outlet cover that the stove plugged into and found out that the neutral terminal was intermittent.
The neutral contacts were not grabbing the netral terminal on the plug tightly enough and were a little discolored in one spot. All that moving around of the plug while moving the stove probably moved it just enough not to work at all - that thing was a fire hazard that I'm surprised hadn't been the cause of more damage in a house only 12 years old. Rather than try and clean the termnals and trust bending them to be tighter (and worry about metal fatigue) I spent the $10 so that I could sleep better for a tight new 240V 30A outlet.
Everthing works like a charm now.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.