CG8422MW729RG Hardwick Wall Oven - Instructions
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- Customer:
- CLAREANN from THREE OAKS, MI
- Parts Used:
- WP7803P058-60, 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Oven would not light
don't know, my husband had it going in minutes. But I would like to say that I have ordered parts for this stove and other appliances over the years and the service is great, the parts are correct and its an easy, user friendly web site to order the parts.
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- Customer:
- Pablo from Burlingame, CA
- Parts Used:
- 8206232A
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
light bulb burned-out
screwed in new bulb
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- Customer:
- David from Milton, MA
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
igniter burned out
Removed bottom tray of oven, unscrewed gas pipe, removed old igniter and replaced it. Spent some extra time digging around for leads, etc. before discovering that my new igniter was identical to the old one and all I had to do was plug it in.
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- Customer:
- Richard from West Mifflin, PA
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Igniter glowed but oven would not light
The repair was straight forward. Turn off gas, unplug stove. Remove the oven door by opening slightly and lifting straight up. The bottom plate lifts from the back. Remove two screws and plug; install new unit. Turn everything back on; proceed with baking...
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- Customer:
- gary from covington, LA
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
oven would not light
New parts matched up perfectly. Undid screws holding old igniter, hardest part of procedure because one screw was frozen and broke off. Pulled stove out and new igniter"s connector was identical. Pushed stove back into place and it lighted on the first try.
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- Customer:
- andrea from new york, NY
- Parts Used:
- WP7212P007-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
A seal came off the oven
I found the model, ordered the new seal, it arrived very quickly via mail and I replaced the seal. You simply slid off the old, slid on the new one and hooked it in place. No expensive repairman!
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- Customer:
- Dana from Windchester, IN
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
oven wouldn't heat
removed 2 screws and unpluged ingiter plug ed new igniter in replaced screws and worked fine
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- Customer:
- Joe from Duarte, CA
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven Was Not Getting Hot
First I want thank you for being there for me . If it wasn't for you I would be having thanksgiving at my mother inlaw first iremoved the two screwsthat holds thy element in place. I then pulledthe element out about 3 in and disconnected the two wires . It's easy as 1. 2. 3
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- Customer:
- Tom from Greenville, NC
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Oven wouldn't heat
I researched the stories on Partsselect, and it looked like this would be a simple repair. Fortunately, it was more simple than I'd thought. We bought the house (and stove) used, and the ignitor apparently had been replaced before, because the part was an EXACT replacement for the old one. I simply unscrewed the two screws holding the old ignitor onto the bracket/burner, pulled the wiring from the back of the oven through the insulation, disconnected the snap connector, reattached the new one. Then I pushed the wiring back through the insulation and added some additional insulation (provided with the part), making sure all extra length was pushed into the insulation. Reattached with two screws using a nut driver, replaced the bottom pan in the oven, slid the door back on its two hinges and started it up. Works perfectly. Thanks Partselect. You guys are great and I had the replacement my mail in about 5 working days!
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- Customer:
- Barry from East Islip, NY
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
oven would take a very long time to warm
took out both racks and under tray at bottom of stove no tools required.
used a nut driver to remove both screws holding ignighter in place ,pulled wires up gentily and remove from standard clip by pushing ends in.
clip new ignighter in place push wires down again and install 2 screws . put all back together and it works like new .
used a nut driver to remove both screws holding ignighter in place ,pulled wires up gentily and remove from standard clip by pushing ends in.
clip new ignighter in place push wires down again and install 2 screws . put all back together and it works like new .
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- Customer:
- Theresa from OVERLAND PARK, KS
- Parts Used:
- 8206232A
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Burned out bulb
Husband replaced the bulb
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- Customer:
- Hannah from AMHERST, MA
- Parts Used:
- WP7403P190-60
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Continuous sparking on all burners due to broken ignition switch
1. I accessed the burner ignition switches by lifting off stove top, sliding off burner knobs and oven knob, and removing the front switch cover (secured with 4 screws on top and 2 screws underneath).
2. I diagnosed which switch was broken: all four switches are wired together, so one faulty switch will affect sparking on both the left and right sides of the stove. I suspected a particular switch because that burner had occasionally struggled to ignite in recent weeks and felt "loose" when turned on.
After unplugging the stove from the electrical outlet and turning on the range fan, I slid several of the switches off their gas valve stems. When comparing the suspect switch to two other switches, the suspect switch felt "loose" when rotated and didn't have the same places of resistance that the other two had.
Feeling more confident that I had found the broken switch, I used pliers to pull out the four wires connecting the suspect switch to the other switches -- it took a good bit of force, there's no convenient release. Now I could access the switch terminals, so I used a multimeter to confirm that the suspect switch didn't have any change in electrical resistance when turned on/off -- it was broken.
3. I removed the broken switch and wired its neighbors together. I plugged the stove back in and checked that this had solved the problem -- no more continuous sparking, and the other three burners still worked.
While I waited several days for the replacement switch to arrive, I reassembled everything besides the broken burner's knob (to remind me to not use that burner), and continued using the other three burners normally.
4. When the replacement switch arrived, I inserted the original four wires into the new switch's terminal holes in the original configuration (again, it took a little force), reassembled everything, and was good to go.
2. I diagnosed which switch was broken: all four switches are wired together, so one faulty switch will affect sparking on both the left and right sides of the stove. I suspected a particular switch because that burner had occasionally struggled to ignite in recent weeks and felt "loose" when turned on.
After unplugging the stove from the electrical outlet and turning on the range fan, I slid several of the switches off their gas valve stems. When comparing the suspect switch to two other switches, the suspect switch felt "loose" when rotated and didn't have the same places of resistance that the other two had.
Feeling more confident that I had found the broken switch, I used pliers to pull out the four wires connecting the suspect switch to the other switches -- it took a good bit of force, there's no convenient release. Now I could access the switch terminals, so I used a multimeter to confirm that the suspect switch didn't have any change in electrical resistance when turned on/off -- it was broken.
3. I removed the broken switch and wired its neighbors together. I plugged the stove back in and checked that this had solved the problem -- no more continuous sparking, and the other three burners still worked.
While I waited several days for the replacement switch to arrive, I reassembled everything besides the broken burner's knob (to remind me to not use that burner), and continued using the other three burners normally.
4. When the replacement switch arrived, I inserted the original four wires into the new switch's terminal holes in the original configuration (again, it took a little force), reassembled everything, and was good to go.
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- Customer:
- Scott from FORT WORTH, TX
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Self tapping screws stripped out, one broke in mounting hole
Punched out broken screw. Drilled out damaged threads to same size as igniter mounting holes. I used nuts, bolts and lock washers to mount igniter. Would have been very easy if mounting screws had come out. Video very helpful.
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- Customer:
- Barry from PORTERVILLE, CA
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Oven ignighter no longer works
Well Got the part within 3 days. Followed instructions to install it and it worked. One thing you need to add to your kit is replacement mounting screws (2 nuts and bolts). It turns out that the original burner because of its age, had a hard time unscrewing it. The screws were very tight and ended up stripped. I ended up using a Dremel tool to cut the screws off. By now the holes were a little bigger than original so I had to put it back together with a nut and bolt that would fit the small hole. But overall this was my first repair and I would definitely order from you again. Your site's part search and documentation with video clarified it wonderfully. Great service and site!
Barry
Barry
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- Customer:
- William from FREELAND, MI
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The problem was exactly what was described on your site.
I pretty much did the repair the same way the video described it. I first turned off the gas valve and disconnected the power. Then removed the two screws holding in the burner tube and removed it. Then I unplugged the old igniter. The screws were a bit corroded so I gave them a little spray of liquid wrench. They came right out them. After removing them I replaced the igniter plugged it in. Then I put the wire through the hole in the wall of the oven. Replaced the insulation that was included in the kit. Replaced the burner tube on the venture. And reinstalled the screws. It was pretty cut and dry. The glow plug had the burner fired up in 15 seconds.
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