JKP38G*J6 General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

The hardest part was removing the old nuthead screws off the old bake burner. Once those were off installing the new bake element was simple. One screw in each wire terminal, two hex head screws to hold the unit in place. Works like a charm!

Very easy, remove two screws, pull burner unit out slightly, then remove the two screws attaching the wires, one to each side, remove old unit and replace with new unit and replace screws.

Works fine perfect replacement.

Removed the racks, unscrewed the back plate which holds the element, unscrewed the leads from the element, removed the old part.

Reversed the process to install the new element.

Turned the oven on for a few minutes to burn any contaminates off the new element, replaced the racks.

And that was it; quite easy.

First I opened the shipping box that the new part came in and figured out which tools I would need. Then I went down to the cellar and clicked off the breaker that supplied power to the oven. In this case, it was the only 50 amp breaker in the panel so It was easy to figure out.
Then I hung a drop light inside the oven so I could see clearly and used a quarter inch drive ratchet with a quarter inch sized socket to remove the two self tapping screws that hold the element plate to the back of the oven. Then I used the same sized socket to remove the small screws that hold the wires and terminal ends to the element contacts.
Then I removed the old unit, placed the new one inside and reversed my steps till the new elements leads and bracket were both securely in place and the element supports were resting on the bottom of the oven. I then turned the power back on and set the oven for 350 degrees and switched the 'bake' selector on. Within thirty seconds, I had a nice even heating new element that glowed brightly from one end to the other. Success! Piece of cake. In the future, I plan to get all my appliance parts at PartsSelect.com and do a lot more repairs myself instead of just replacing the entire appliance.

Greg G. - Peabody, Massachusetts

This repair is very simple and only required about 15-20 minutes per unit. After turning off the power to your oven at the main breaker box, it's just a matter of removing two 1/4" screws and pulling out the units. The tricky part is removing the power plugs to the elements and not letting them slip back into the insulation. Once you plug in the new elements and screw them back in you are good to go. Once note, while you have everything out, it is a great opportunity to give your oven a good cleaning.

I shut off the power at the breaker. Then I checked that the power was off by turning on the stove. Light did not come on, power is off. [ By the way, I locked the breaker box, in case somebody helpful came along to turn the power back on !] Then I undid the screws holding the old element . Pulled it out, and undid the screws holding the wire leads to the element. Screwed wire leads to new element. Pushed back in, and screwed brace screws back in. Went out to breaker box and turned power back on. Turned on oven. Worked. Second time I've done this. I kind of forgot how, since the last time was about 6 years ago, but anyone could figure this out, unless they didn't want to. Took 20 minutes. A little hard working in a small space , but beats buying a new stove.

Old gasket had become brittle. Was able to find the 22 yr old model and part on PartSelect (could not track it down on GE's site. Inner panel was removed with four screws. Old gasket came out. Installed new gasket making sure the bead fit into the groove provided in the door panel. Re-assembled. All is well. Thanks

Successful repair to Our GE range, manufactured prior to 1965 (when installed in house). Pulled range from wall, unplugged, removed burned-out broiler element. Previous check with GE to make cross reference of range part number to Part-select part number for this nearly 50-year-old range. Obtained new part and installed. Works. Range has self-cleaning oven, accidentally destroyed thermal switch attached to element mounting bracket, difficulty with frozen mounting nut. Self-cleaning still works; thermal switch locks out a solenoid which defeats door latch; prevents premature opening of oven door when oven too hot to open safely. Internet search did not find GE part but there are generic devices of the same type available; will consider installation later.

total of 4 screws to remove and replace. Took out the first 2 and pulled element out a few inches. now remove the screws from the element itself but be sure you don't loose the wire out the back of the oven. The only challenge was to keep the wires from falling back through the rear of the oven. This could be easily avoided if you have a clamp of some type ie. clothes pin, hemostst, shop clamp ect.

Cut off power, but needed flashlight to see what I was doing. Couldn't get the flashlight to shine on right spot and had no one to hold it. Oven is 19 years old, so screws holding it into the oven wall and to the connection were very old and very difficult to loosen. Finally held prong with pliers and wrenched the screw loose after repeated tries and using a little WD40. Very proud of myself! I am a wife and mother of two teenage boys, but I end up doing all these projects. So proud that I posted a photo of the oven on facebook! Goes from 0 -350 in three minutes now. Yippee!

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

First, and most importantly, flipped the circuit breaker and turned off the power to the oven. Next, Unscrewed the old element and disconnected the wiring. Then, removed the old element and replaced it with the new one.
Reconnected the wiring to the new bake element and screwed it back onto the oven.

Voila! Turned the oven on and watched the new element heat to a bright red. We had an oven once again, and saved ourselves more than $100. Yay!

First I removed the two screws in the back. then I removed the two screws attached to the brace at the top. pulled the old element out. Removed the screws that attatced the wires to the element. Attached the wires to the new element. Pushed the wires back in. Pushed the element in and attached the screws. Reattached the support. Turned on the broiler. The element smoked for a few seconds before getting red hot. It is working fine.

Pull the stove out from the wall and unplug. Had to remove back of stove, the aluminum sheilding and the duct work to get at wires use nut driver. Then used nut driver to remove nuts from broiler unit inside stove. Take the front overn dover off first. The new part did not match up with the wires so I used a needle nose to spread the wire clips just a tad so they would fit over the tabs of the broiler unit. Do all of this behind the stove as you do not have eough wire to do this effectively from the oven side. After I had the tabs fitted to the broiler unit. I removed them and fed wires back through the stove. I then went back to the front of the stove and put the broiler back in and put support bar back in to ceiling of stove and the two nuts back on to affix broiler to back of oven. Put the aluminum baccking and duct work back onto the back of the stove and plugged it back in. Pretty easy job.