JTP45BW3BB General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

twisted it in place

Very was ti replace racks and knobs. Very fast mail service

We had to buy washers and screws to hold the handle on.
Then all we did was undo the screws that were on the side of the door. place handle on door screw the new screws and washers that we had to buy and replace the side screws and it was fixed.

The only problem that I found was that the handle kit did not come with screws or some kind of attachment to hold the handle on the door. We had to buy extras at the hardware store for that.

1-SHUT OFF POWER. You can just unplug if possible, but it may be easier to flip the breaker to kill all power to the unit. 2-Use 1/4 in socket to loosen the two brass screws that hold the bake element into the back of the unit. 3-Gently pull out the wires, and pull the bake element from the wires. 4-Replace bake element and put back together. In all it took me longer to walk to the garage to get/replace my tools than it did to repair the unit. Don't be afraid to do it yourself...especailly cause it'll save you at least 50% on the job. :)

Took back panel off unplugged sensor and replugged in and worked like a charm!Sears wanted $400 and was going to 'overrepair"Got the 60 dollar part on here. UPS shipped to wrong address and customer service refunded my shipping and was excellent! would definetly use again!thanks

remove the screws, replaced the element, replaced the screws.

1. Open oven door
2. insert oven racks (perfect fit)
3. close oven door. Done and finished - man am I tired

Replaced new light housing.
Thanks to you guys for the prompt response

#1) Found electrical control breaker and moved to "off" position

#2) Removed two (2) screws with a nut driver, that were holding the bake element in position against the back wall of the oven. Gently pulled the original bake element out toward the door to expose the wire connectors from oven to element, then disengaged the connections.

#3) Removed the damaged element, replaced with the new element, reconnected the wires to the element, and returned same into the back wall opening and reinserted the two (2) screws with nut driver.

Repair was complete. Electrical breaker returned to on. Procedure Done!

The first task is to turn off the breaker so there is no power coming to the oven. I learned in the hard way that even though the oven is turned off, there is still a hot wire connected to the bake element. Next,I removed the oven door and shelves. Then I used a nutdriver to remove the two screws holding the element in place. I expected to find a plug, however the element is connected to two wires buried in the insulation. I pulled the wires off of the bake element, connected them to the new element and put everything back together. This is not a difficult task.

First I unplugged unit. Theni removed the two screws that hold the element in place . Then went to pull the element out to disconnect the two wires,but was having alittle trouble. There for I removed the large plate(cover) on the back of range,and removed the wires from this location. Put the new element in place,reattached wires,screwed back plate back on ,and pluged back in.

1. shut power off (if it is a built in you will have to go to the house control panel to shut the power off). To ensure that it is off check the clock light prior and after you throw the switch it now should be off. 2. remove screws holding ovens in cabinet should be 8 (Phillips)on the sides of the ovens inside, you have to have to have the doors open to remove 4 top and 4 bottom 3. slide ovens out of cabinet about 4 to 6 inches (do not pull on doors) open the bottom door reach inside of oven and slide to the left and the right while gently lifting. 4. close the bottom door and open the top door. above the door and below the control panel you should see at least 3 screws I removed them with a socket and ratchet, but you can use a wrench or adjustable wrench. 5. on top of the panel you should see two screws (Phillips) on one on each side. remove the screws. 6. The control panel has a small tab in the middle of it, you will now be able to lift the cover that the tab is slid into (tin this is the top of the oven) while you hold the tin cover up about 1/4 inch hold on to the panel tipping the bottom out this should release the tab and allow you to pull the control panel out. Now close the top door and the panel should rest on the handle of the door. 7. looking into the top of oven you should see two limit switches (they are round with two screws holding them down with two wires that slide on the tabs) One of these in my case the one on the right runs the fan while the one in the center runs the door lock. To determine if the switch is faulty remove one of the wires from one of the limit switches and either tape or use a clamp or even a paper clip so the wires on the same limit switch will be touching. 8. now carefully put the control panel back tipping the bottom out to insert the tab in the top cover and put in one of the screws to hold it in place. 9. turn on the power check to see if the door lock is working correctly and the door lock light is out. If it is not working and you hear the fan running then you have jumped the wrong switch. If this is the case shut the power off then return the wire back on the jumped switch and repeat the process with the other limit switch. 10. after you jumped the correct switch the door lock light is off. Check the system with the power on by putting the oven in the self cleaning cycle. The door lock light should start to flash and after the door locks it will stay on steady. Press the stop or off button the door lock light will begin to flash and when the lock is released the door lock light should go out. If the door has been pulled on or forced open the locking device can strip and will only go so far with out locking the door. You will then have to remove the locking device with the motor and replace the motor. With the switch jumped and everything is working then this is the problem shut the power off and replace the switch. Caution there are two limit switches in the bottom oven also one with a reset that is about $50 it is bigger and will not bolt down. The one that is in mine is smaller and cost about $23 make sure that you order the correct one shown in the diagram provided by Parts select. 11. reinstall the control panel should be 3 screws on the bottom and 2 on the top. Open the top oven door and carefully slide the oven back in place pushing on the sides do not push on the oven door. Attach the cabinet screws 8 turn on the power.

This repair was quite a bit more difficult then what had been described on the web site. First off, I have a double wall oven that is built in. Sliding it out of the cabinet was difficult and because oven was hard wired, I had to disconnect the actual wiring from the oven back. . Positioning the oven and allowing for it to rest on a support bench was the most difficult part The oven is heavy. Eventually, removing the back and top panels of the oven revealed the sensor connection. I was then able to feed it through the oven and reconnect all the wiring harnesses.. Getting the oven back in the cabinet was equally a challenge. But it did seem to fix the problem with over heating.

After turning off the electricity, remove the inside rear panel over the fan by removing 4 screws, remove the 2 screws holding in the old heat element. Unscrew the unit from the cabinet by removing 4 wood screws on the front sides. Pull the unit out of the cabinet, I slid it onto 2) 4 x4 pieces of wood to make the reinstall easier. Remove the lower black panel on the outside back, it should have 2 screws and it slides into 2 notches on the back. The back of the element electrical tabs are exposed, pull off the 2 electrical connectors. From the inside carefully pull out the old element, slide the new one in the same space and secure with the 2 screws removed earlier. Attach the 2 electrical clips to the electrical tabs exposed in back and replace the metal cover. Slide the oven back into the cabinet, replace the interior back panel as it was removed and secure the front screws back into the cabinet. Turn on the power and test !

The part was just like the old one and would have been an easy fix except our range suffered from a lighting hit. The clips had melted together. Called a dealer and asked about a new wiring harness. He said in those cases just cut the clip off and hard wire with wire clips,or firecrackers. We used wire nuts and taped all together and the oven works just great. Nothing is ever as easy as it should be.