JT910SY1SS General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

Simply inserted the clip into the hole in the oven. It took less than 20 seconds. :D

Turned off power to the oven, Removed the oven light housing, installed new housing, turned power on and walla.

Disconnected the old socket ( 2 srews ) removed the two wires from the old socket, reconnected them to the new socket and reinstalled the lamp.

The overall repair was not difficult. The trick here is the new Clock/Control unit is not exactly the same. GE changed the circuit board design so the connections are not in the same place. Follow these steps. First turn off power to stove.
1. Slide out stove and remove top cover (5 sheet metal screws).
2. Remove old oven power lock (3 screws) and intall new low profile lock (2 scews). This is needed since the new circuit board is larger.
3. Diconnect old clock control panel 4 scews
4. Lay the new clock control next to the old one and one by one swap over wiring.
5. Note connectios are not in the same place but they are labled...be careful.
6. Last and most important. You will be left with one wire that doesn't have a home. This is the L1 jumper wire that used to connect to the old board. Locate the 4 black relays. This wire goes on the second relay next to the small relay. Connect wire to the relay terminal L1A connection.
7. Remove old board and mount the new (4 scews).
8. Make sure all wires are clear of the lock mechanism and are not pinched under panel.
9. Done

I gently pulled the door gasket up at hold pin points - which were spaced every 3-4 inches apart- the pins hold the gasket to the oven door. Once removed, I pushed the pins of the new gasket in holes of the door - starting at top center of door- until all pins were snapped in place. At the bottom of the door are two slotted holes through which each end of the door gasket terminates. Push ends of gasket into these holes until gasket lies flat to oven door.

First and most important trun off curcit breaker. Use 1/4 inch but driver to remove socket (2) screws. Remove ground and hot wire clips from old socket, replace on new socket. Screw back into oven ceiling and turn on power. Reset clock and your are done. Very simple.

I remove four screws two on the left side and two screws on the right side. I pull the oven out about ten inches, removed two screws that hold the hinge in place, took out the broken hinge and reverse the installation.

I ordered the replacement clips from this site and they arrived in a timely manner. The clips were perfect, but due to the age of the oven, the holes had elongated and the new clips kept falling out also. I modified the clips by widening the tips with a pair of pliers. They are holding just fine. I don't think the older clips could've withstood the modification.

Turned off the breaker Pulled the wall oven out of the cabinet (4-screws) set it on the floor. removed the back cover , pulled wire clips removed old broken heat element. and reversed the process.

Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!

All I had to do was pop the clamp on the top part of the heating element and push the clamp into the hole.

Turn power to oven off at the breaker.
Remove access panel to upper control panel.
With the aid of an extension rod remove the hex headed screws succuring the fan to the baffle wall. Remove the fan. Replacement model did not have wire extending from it. So remove wire from original fan and attach it to the replacement fan terminals using an appropriate adapter. Install new fan in original position with original screws. Be sure to reconnect wire in the same orientation as the original fan (right side to white wire). Repeat process for the second fan in the upper control compartment. Handy trick for re-installing hex head screw in deep location....use a small piece of electrical tape to hold the hex head screw head inside the socket driver. After tightening is completed the tape will fall away from the screw.

Check that all wiring connections are back in place and tight. Re-install cover and turn the breaker back on. Test the oven out by heating it up again. It will take approximately 30 minutes to reach a steady state temperature inside the oven so that the circulation fans in the control panel turn on.

First shut off circuit breaker. Removed two screws that hold the bake element in place pulled it out about two inches and dicconnected the two terminal wires. Replaced element in reverse order.
Ordered part and recieved the next day. WOW!!

I have a double oven and coincidently I had to replace the two Oven Light Assemblies.
I am really glad about your web site because once I got the number from my oven model you guys were the first ones that came up. Thanks to your prompt and reliable service my oven is back to its original state.

Jose Figueroa

thought I'd unplugged the oven, turns out I disconnected the stove top, which is gas and a separate unit. This cautionary tale is here to remind all to look at the clock of the appliance on which you are working to see if there is still power flowing to it.I failed to notice until I was working at disconnecting the old element to prepare the unit for my husband to repaire after returning home. Thought I'd clean things up a bit before he had to get in there. One bright, big and loud pow! and electric fearsomeness set in but caused little damage to me but my ego. I think I got a scorched knuckle-but not burned. Stuff like this is what keeps the repair techs in business. I set the screw driver down and noted the clock was still lit up. D'oh! Shut off the breaker to the oven, cleaned it up, and left the repair to my husband, who made short work of the replacement. Also, we were sorry not to have bothered to remove the door while working on the element connections at the back of the oven. It would have been easier on his back-especially considering we had difficulty grabbing the wires to plug into the new unit due to my precipitous approach. We used an old hemostat(the pincher like grabber things mentioned in a different post) acquired from his years in the ER, and the oven works fine, is clean(er) and I am all through eating my humble pie. Bake on!