PCB920ST2SS General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

Very easy to remove the parts and to reassemble

Performed repair using a video for reference.

The logical first choice for replacement was the triple burner assembly since that is subject to failure for obvious reasons. It turned out that the burner assembly was fine by visual inspection and by virtue of a continuity measurement.

The second choice seemed to be the frame relay board and that turned out to be correct. This was an educated guess since it is the "next" component going backwards, it is responsible for distributing the burner voltages, and that relays can have a reasonably high failure rate. This board could be tested but without schematics that seemed like a lot of effort, so I ordered it on a best guess.

Replacement of the board is not too difficult but does require some attention to detail, and patience is required to be sure that all the wires end up in the right place. Needle nose pliers are really helpful here. Take photographs, make a sketch, and label some of the obscure wires with painter's tape. Took about an hour or so.

Took the oven door off and removed the inner door panel, put new glass assembly part in and reassembled. The hard part was getting the door hinges locked back into place.

Used the schematic on the website to order part and disassemble/reassemble with new fan motor. Works like new.

My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),red] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.

Removed torx screws for door handle as well as torx screws for both hinges to separate the door halves to extract broken glass and to install new glass panel. Other reviews said not to remove hinge screws, however I had no problem reinstalling them.

Removed screws holding temp sensor, pulled wire out from behind wall until found connector, disconnected old sensor.
Measured resistance of old sensor and compared with new sensor, they measured nearly the same. Installed the new sensor and tested the stove. Came up to temp ok. No problem since, about 2 weeks.

Unsrewed the glass cover

Pull oven out away from the wall, unplugged from outlet, removed center cover by removing 5 sheet metal screws. disconnected thermostat sensor from control cable. Opened oven door and removed screw that holds thermostat sensor. Pulled thermostat sensor out replaced with new sensor. Plugged sensor in to control cable. Replace panel and screws. Then my wife made me clean the oven. I recommend making the repair when your wife is not home.

It’s easy to replace and you can found out the video from YouTube to follow the instructions

Threw the old one out - plugged the new one in. Steak came out just as ordered - medium rare.

This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported.
- works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.

Take off 6 screws of back cover of the range, unplug the white wire. Go to the inside of oven, pull out racks. At the top of the oven is your Broiler element, in the center you will see a rod sticking out with one screw holding it in place. Take out screw and pull temperature sensor out toward you. Reverse steps to put it back together.

This one is simple. unscrew a portion of the door, install the spacer and screw back together. Worked well.