JS750SF1SS General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

I pulled out the drawer and inserted the new support. This one inserts into the back of the drawer as opposed to the sides. I had ordered two of the replacements even though I only needed one and decided to replace both. I think it was a good move as the drawer works better than when we first got it. Just one simple screw made it complete.

First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches. I removed the sensor and disconnected the connector.

pull out stove, unbolt old temp sensor inside stove with 1/4 nutdriver, go to back of stove and take off cover and unhook sensor and hook up new one, put all back together and slide stove back in place.

turned off power to oven; pulled out old bulb (unscrewed glass cover to access). Noted the direction of the electrical prongs when pulled bulb out... and inserted new bulb. Turned back on power to oven - bulb worked

Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.

I'm well past ninety and my sweet daughter inserted the tiny prongs. I was delighted to find a place that had the bulbs. Thank goodness for the internet ! (I'm not too old for that)

The real challenge on this particular glass top range was to figure out which screws had to be removed to lift the glass top to get at the burner elements to do a replacement.

Removed the two side screws holding the control panel in place. Disconnected the two wire harnesses and took off the control panel to allow easier access. Then examined the screws attaching the vertical plate in front of the glass top. Most of them were on the on the vertical plate but a few were in the bottom of the horizontal plate. If successful, the vertical plate can be moved forward giving access to the glass top. You pull up on the front of the glass top and when it just clears the vertical front plate you pull the top forward a bit to get the back end of the top out of the read chrome vent piece. I then leaned the glass top up to about a 75 deg angle and then propped the top with a 24” wooden garden stake. I used two stakes to hold the top up. The challenge after that is to remove the old burner and carefully note the colored wiring and locations of the connectors and removed the three old clips. That took a bit of effort. several of the wiring harnesses were very short so you had to be careful when removing and installing the new burner. The burner has numbers stamped on the metal and you must note each number where the clips are located. The rest is to reverse the process. Some of the insulation pieces came off and some of the insulation clips fell off and you must be sure to get the insulation pieces back on in the correct location. Expect a lot of gunk that needs to be cleaned on the top and trim pieces. I save around $200 by doing my own replacement.

Very easy to remove the parts and to reassemble

Took off cover plate and removed screws from housing to switch. Connected each wire from old switch to new one. No problems.

I checked various sites on the net and decided that the temperature sensor was the problem. The GE price for the replacement part was about $105, most of the other sites offered the sensor in the $70 range. PartSelect $12.95 When the part arrived, I removed a small self taping screw, pulled the high temperature wire connector into the oven space, disconnected the quick disconnect fitting, attached the new temperature sensor, pushed the connecting wire into its hole, replaced the screw and that was it. I probably saved about $200 in parts and labor over what a local repairman would have charged. Oh yes!! I first disconnected the power at the breaker box. Very important.

recieved part the next day. looked different but I followed instructions and the part worked perfect.

First I removed the oven drawer. Verified that the support clips would rest correctly on rail, then review installation document with supports to locate alternate location for replacement supports. I did have to personally locate 2 fastners not provided with the supports ot complete installation. After installation, oven drawer opens and closes smoothly.

Sensor is in rear and on top ov oven. What could be a 10" job took 45". My problem was the oven door was diffinately in the way. Also I wear bifocals which makes me tilt head to see nuts. I felt like a contortionist. HINT: remove door and give yourself some room to work.

REMOVED 2 SCREWS AND LOWERED LIGHT ASSEMBLY. UNPLUGGED THE OLD ONE, AND REPLACED IT WITH THE ITEM SENT TO ME

First, I turned off the power. I removed the fixture that held the bulb and gently used narrow type pliers to pull the old pins out and allowed the broken glass to fall upon a shop towel in the bottom of the oven.

The replacement bulb and different type of wiring connections. I cut and formed them to fit the receptacle. I gently inserted the new bulb, placed the glass cover back on. Then, screwed the unit back into the top of the oven.

Happily, when power was turned back on the light shone brightly!