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JTS10DP1BB General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

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All Instructions for the JTS10DP1BB
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Customer:
Sarah from MONTGOMERY, TX
Parts Used:
WB04T10050
Difficulty Level:
Very Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Followed a GE Video on installation
Followed GE repair video
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Customer:
fred from PALM COAST, FL
Parts Used:
WB08T10002
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
shortage in wiring cause the housing to burn out
Replaced new light housing.
Thanks to you guys for the prompt response
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Customer:
Dominick from THORNWOOD, NY
Parts Used:
WB27X45466
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Oven no longer working after running the self clean option. Only Stove top burners worked
I began by turning off the breaker in the panel.
Slide the oven out into the open area.
Removed 3 screws in order to remove rear top panel.
Took 2 pictures of the wiring location on the PCB
Removed all wiring going to the circuit board total of 8.
Removed 4 screws in order to remove bad PCB.
Remove faceplate from bad PCB (you will need to place this faceplate on the new PCB.

To Install.
Reverse steps above
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Customer:
Stella from PADUCAH, KY
Parts Used:
WB27X45466, 40A15
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Socket set
My electronic control board went out so I could not use my oven. My oven light blew as well.
I started with changing the bulb. I removed the small bracket that holds the glass cover over the bulb unscrewed the bulb and reversed to replace the bulb. To replace the control board I removed the top plate on the back of my stove took the small screw's out of the control panel and unplugged the wire's. Plugged the wire's into the right spots on the new control board and put it back together.
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Customer:
Ryan from COHOES, NY
Parts Used:
WB27X45466
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers
Bake button stopped registering
This was simple enough to repair for me, a relative novice. Just remember you need a nut driver to take the back panel off, take a photo of the existing board so you remember which wires go where, and you definitely need a hair dryer to heat up the sticker on the old board so you can remove it and put it on the new board.
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Customer:
Vincent J Paola, from GREENWEL SPGS, LA
Parts Used:
WB27X45466
Difficulty Level:
Very Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Bad Line fault displayed on range clock
1. Unplug the range power cord from the outlet.
2. Moved range away from the wall and countertop.
3.Using a nut driver removed the 2 screws on each side of the removable panel on the back side of the control knobs and clock.
4. Using a phillips head screwdriver remove 2 screws on top side of the back side panel.
5. Using a nut driver remove 4 screws that secure the main control board in place.
6. Take photo of the wiring on the main control board if not color coded.
7. My control board, and the replacement board were both color coded with the color with the wire placement on the rear of the board.
8. Remove wires with needle nose pliers.
9. Using a hair dryer, heat the plastic control panel face plate that fits onto the front of the old control board.
10.With a putty knife carefully pry the face plate from the old control board.
11. Install the control board face plate onto the new control board.
12. Install the color coded wiring in place on the back side of the control board.
13. Replace the control board into the range, and install screws, and rear panel of the range.
14. Plug cord into outlet and test range for proper operation.
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Customer:
Louis from LEAGUE CITY, TX
Parts Used:
40A15
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Change bulb
Easy
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Customer:
Kerry from Loveland, CO
Parts Used:
WB27X45466
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
fried oven control using raid
replaced oven clock control ref maintenance manual, 4 screws and 8 wires. plugged in new control and op checks good.
4 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
PETE from MANCHACA, TX
Parts Used:
WB27X45466
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Blew the electronic Control Board
It was easy to replace it. Just remove the screws and unplug each wire and plug them back. The problem was to take off the plate cover that has the printed letters on. The plate cover cost more than the Electronic Control Board.
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Customer:
Barbara from Bethesda, MD
Parts Used:
WB04T10050
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
gasket on door was brittle
I feel like Macho Mom. I called in the repair guy since I was afraid of dealing with the gas. HE repaired one item but could tell I was comfortable fixing things and pointed out that the gasket was brittle and would cause major problems if not replaced. Took longer to order the part than do the repair, don't know what I was afraid of!
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Customer:
Pam from Daphne, AL
Parts Used:
WB27X45466
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
oven control panel was blacked out..no clock no start.
Took out the old control module and removed the sticker and reattached sticker to new part and installed the plugs, put the screws back in and it started working, thankyou so much.
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Customer:
Robert from Austin, AR
Parts Used:
WB27X45466
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
clock, over control, oven light , timer did not work
remove rear panel cover, removered four screws that held control panel, disconnected colored wires, removed circuit control board, reinstall new board and connected color coded wire to the correct spot on the board, plugged in 220 volt cord, switch on circuit breaker, everything worked normal again
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Customer:
Orion from Vancouver, WA
Parts Used:
WB23T10015
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Oven temperature was low when reading was correct
First of all, the sensor had the proper ohm reading...at ambient temperatures. I suspected the sensor because it would jump in large degree increments over 200°F. From what I read online, the only other part that would cause this was a faulty circuit board. I opted to try the $20 part first vs. the $200 part. It worked. One screw on the back top of the inside is all that holds the sensor in. Pull the wires out and you will find a quick-disconnect. New part had the same connector (thank you). Thread the wires back through the hole and replace the screw. Works like a champion (verified with an independent thermometer. That is all she wrote. I only wish I purchased two, since they don't last that long... 4 years...or so. I just bought the house built in 2007 and empty for a year... and it took 45 minutes to cook a pizza, and even then the bottom dough was light. A house without an oven is like a hot dog without mustard!
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Customer:
Douglas from Thornton, CO
Parts Used:
WB08T10002
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Socket set
Oven lights were burning out regularly
Replaced the Oven light housing. Unscrewed the two screws that hold the housing in place. Pulled out the housing and disconnected the wire tabs from the light housing tabs. Slid the wire tabs onto the tabs of the new light housing fixture. (Each tab is fitted to the tab in goes on so they can not be mixed up) Pushed the housing fixture back into place and screwed the housing into place.
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Customer:
James from Hope Mills, NC
Parts Used:
WB27X45466
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Range top burners work, but Oven would not. Click flashed and made a clicking noise when trying to turn on the oven, but shut off
My Range had the issue I mentioned here. I put off the repairs for a long time, but Thanksgiving was around the corner and we needed a working oven. I had made a previous call to repair man and was quoted $75.00 for a service call to come and check the issue. Before calling a repair man back, I decided to pull the rear cover off the range to see how complicated it would be to repair. I removed the rear cover and found that everything was connected to this "Oven Electronic Control" except for the top elements (explaining why they still worked and the oven didn't). This made it seem that this part would surely have to be causing the issue. I did a search on Google and found this company and the part that I needed. The cost of the part was less than the service call for a repair man would have been. I ordered the part and paid for next day delivery. The part shipped on Monday and arrived on Tuesday. For the installation, I had to identify the wiring because the connector layout was a little different. When I looked closely I found that the terminals were numbered the same as the old part. I replaced wire for wire, put it all back together and tried it out. It worked like a champ. I was thrilled to have been able to find the part with schematics on this web site and it was the correct part and fixed the problem. I was also thrilled that I saved a couple hundred dollars fixing it myself and that it was so easy. I would highly recommend this company for the ease of use of finding the part on their web site, the reasonable price and their prompt processing and delivery.
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All Instructions for the JTS10DP1BB
46 - 60 of 67