JCTP70DP2WW General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches. I removed the sensor and disconnected the connector.

First and most important trun off curcit breaker. Use 1/4 inch but driver to remove socket (2) screws. Remove ground and hot wire clips from old socket, replace on new socket. Screw back into oven ceiling and turn on power. Reset clock and your are done. Very simple.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Well I did it all wrong from the get go. I did finally do a search on how to replace it and then it was quite easy. Learn from me, watch video and save yourself tons of hassle.

Watched video

I checked various sites on the net and decided that the temperature sensor was the problem. The GE price for the replacement part was about $105, most of the other sites offered the sensor in the $70 range. PartSelect $12.95 When the part arrived, I removed a small self taping screw, pulled the high temperature wire connector into the oven space, disconnected the quick disconnect fitting, attached the new temperature sensor, pushed the connecting wire into its hole, replaced the screw and that was it. I probably saved about $200 in parts and labor over what a local repairman would have charged. Oh yes!! I first disconnected the power at the breaker box. Very important.

I have a double oven and coincidently I had to replace the two Oven Light Assemblies.
I am really glad about your web site because once I got the number from my oven model you guys were the first ones that came up. Thanks to your prompt and reliable service my oven is back to its original state.

Jose Figueroa

Sensor is in rear and on top ov oven. What could be a 10" job took 45". My problem was the oven door was diffinately in the way. Also I wear bifocals which makes me tilt head to see nuts. I felt like a contortionist. HINT: remove door and give yourself some room to work.

twisted it in place

1) Shut off power to oven
2) Removed oven door using snap down hinges on door
3) Removed 4-phillips head screws holding the oven frame to cabinets
4) Pulled oven out of cabinet and set it on stool in front of opening
5) Remove 2-hex screws holding metal shield covering the electrical wiring on back of oven
6) Unplugged bad thermostat connector
7) Removed the single hex screw holding thermostat inside the oven
8) Pulled the thermostat and lead wire from oven
9) Fed the new thermostat wire into inside back of oven
10) Reverse steps 1-7

Removing the oven from the wall to rest on 2 chairs was pretty easy. After that, if I only had to replace the convection heating element at the back of the oven, it would have been a snap.

However, getting access to the main heating element on the bottom of the oven was really difficult. There were no instructions to follow, so one can only look at what is available for similar units online, but my attempts to remove the inner oven shroud on my 14yo wall oven could not be done without major bending.

So, I tried to get to the bottom heating element by removing the bottom of the oven, only to find there to be another layer and another layer, and then insulation that wrapped around the sides below that after taking off the sides.

By the time I finally got to the bottom heating element on my old oven, my patience was gone and I decided the jigsaw puzzle created by this vain effort was not worth putting back together. Better to opt for new technology.

While PartSelect is easy to work with, had I known this project was going to be super difficult, I would never have tried to take the old oven apart. Some engineer needs to be spanked over that design.

Lesson learned on replacing the lower heating element on a wall oven where the unit has to be completely disassembled, don't.

The money spent on freight, fees, and return postage will be chalked up to experience.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

RE: 2 yr. old GE double wall oven with convection option in upper oven, non-convection in lower oven: baked goods were not browning, were undercooked or burned. Tested both ovens on regular bake setting using 2 oven thermometers. Set ovens for 350. Although after 10 min both ovens beeped "ready", the oven thermometers actually read 200 - then would swing up as high as 500 and as low as 200 during the 20 min test period. Decided to first replace top oven sensor only, just in case it really was a more expensive control panel problem. It was a bit awkward to reach back there with the oven door in the way, but I have long arms! Aimed my flashlight, removed nuts with a socket wrench, pulled out the sensor, popped the clip and the old sensor easily separated from its connection. Snapped on the new sensor, pushed it back in and reset the nuts. Easy. Set the oven for 350 and tested again with 2 oven thermometers for 45 min. Voila! The oven thermometers read exactly 350 when the oven beeped "ready" and it stayed at 350 throughout the entire 45 min retest period with only a 3 degree variation both up and down. What a great improvement! Immediately went online to Parts Select and ordered another sensor for the bottom oven which was having the same problem. Fixed both ovens all for under $30 - and just in time for Christmas cookies! Don't want to know what the repair guy would have charged.......Merry Christmas!

took out old gasket and inserted new

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.