JCTP16GV1BB General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

I remove four screws two on the left side and two screws on the right side. I pull the oven out about ten inches, removed two screws that hold the hinge in place, took out the broken hinge and reverse the installation.

I ordered the replacement clips from this site and they arrived in a timely manner. The clips were perfect, but due to the age of the oven, the holes had elongated and the new clips kept falling out also. I modified the clips by widening the tips with a pair of pliers. They are holding just fine. I don't think the older clips could've withstood the modification.

Turned off the breaker Pulled the wall oven out of the cabinet (4-screws) set it on the floor. removed the back cover , pulled wire clips removed old broken heat element. and reversed the process.

All I had to do was pop the clamp on the top part of the heating element and push the clamp into the hole.

Turn power to oven off at the breaker.
Remove access panel to upper control panel.
With the aid of an extension rod remove the hex headed screws succuring the fan to the baffle wall. Remove the fan. Replacement model did not have wire extending from it. So remove wire from original fan and attach it to the replacement fan terminals using an appropriate adapter. Install new fan in original position with original screws. Be sure to reconnect wire in the same orientation as the original fan (right side to white wire). Repeat process for the second fan in the upper control compartment. Handy trick for re-installing hex head screw in deep location....use a small piece of electrical tape to hold the hex head screw head inside the socket driver. After tightening is completed the tape will fall away from the screw.

Check that all wiring connections are back in place and tight. Re-install cover and turn the breaker back on. Test the oven out by heating it up again. It will take approximately 30 minutes to reach a steady state temperature inside the oven so that the circulation fans in the control panel turn on.

Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!

First shut off circuit breaker. Removed two screws that hold the bake element in place pulled it out about two inches and dicconnected the two terminal wires. Replaced element in reverse order.
Ordered part and recieved the next day. WOW!!

Alls well that ends well. General Electric changed the configuration of our Light bulb socket on our 1996 oven. It did not have a flange with two screws as the original. The new one, you will just connect it and twist it into place. It worked and we are very happy. Such wonderful people to deal with at this site. Our sincere thanks,
Richard and Shirley

thought I'd unplugged the oven, turns out I disconnected the stove top, which is gas and a separate unit. This cautionary tale is here to remind all to look at the clock of the appliance on which you are working to see if there is still power flowing to it.I failed to notice until I was working at disconnecting the old element to prepare the unit for my husband to repaire after returning home. Thought I'd clean things up a bit before he had to get in there. One bright, big and loud pow! and electric fearsomeness set in but caused little damage to me but my ego. I think I got a scorched knuckle-but not burned. Stuff like this is what keeps the repair techs in business. I set the screw driver down and noted the clock was still lit up. D'oh! Shut off the breaker to the oven, cleaned it up, and left the repair to my husband, who made short work of the replacement. Also, we were sorry not to have bothered to remove the door while working on the element connections at the back of the oven. It would have been easier on his back-especially considering we had difficulty grabbing the wires to plug into the new unit due to my precipitous approach. We used an old hemostat(the pincher like grabber things mentioned in a different post) acquired from his years in the ER, and the oven works fine, is clean(er) and I am all through eating my humble pie. Bake on!

Pull the range out from the wall to access the rear of the unit. Turn off power to the range by unplugging from the wall or turning off the breaker.
Remove the large back cover from the oven portion of the range. Locate the two small wires and connector which is located between the two connections for the broiler heating element. Unplug the small connector.
Open the oven door and remove the screw that holds the temperature sensor in place between the broiler heating elements on the inside of the oven. Gently pull the sensor and the wire connector through the hole and discard.
Feed the new connector and wire through the hole from the inside of the oven. Attach the sensor to the oven wall with the screw.
Go to the back of the unit and make sure that no insulation has gotten into the oven space. Re-route the new wire being careful not to let it touch the contacts for the broiler heating element. Reconnect the wires to the connector and replace the back cover of the oven.
Plug in the range or turn on the circuit breaker. Slide the range back into place and re-level the unit. Test the oven to make sure the temperature is accurate and will maintain temperature.

ordered over the phone a new temp sensor. Un plug the oven, take off the back, open oven and unscrew the temp sensor, pull the sensor until the elec connector clip comes through so you can unclip the old sensor, clip on the new then pull the line back and re attach the sensor to the ovn. Plug in the oven.
Pretty simple, just hard to work inside the oven. I unclipped the sensor line outside the oven to make sure it would come apart first before I was working inside the oven.

1-SHUT OFF POWER. You can just unplug if possible, but it may be easier to flip the breaker to kill all power to the unit. 2-Use 1/4 in socket to loosen the two brass screws that hold the bake element into the back of the unit. 3-Gently pull out the wires, and pull the bake element from the wires. 4-Replace bake element and put back together. In all it took me longer to walk to the garage to get/replace my tools than it did to repair the unit. Don't be afraid to do it yourself...especailly cause it'll save you at least 50% on the job. :)

Threw the old one out - plugged the new one in. Steak came out just as ordered - medium rare.

#1) Found electrical control breaker and moved to "off" position

#2) Removed two (2) screws with a nut driver, that were holding the bake element in position against the back wall of the oven. Gently pulled the original bake element out toward the door to expose the wire connectors from oven to element, then disengaged the connections.

#3) Removed the damaged element, replaced with the new element, reconnected the wires to the element, and returned same into the back wall opening and reinserted the two (2) screws with nut driver.

Repair was complete. Electrical breaker returned to on. Procedure Done!

This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported.
- works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.