JRP24GT1BB General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

It was easy as pie. Just followed the instructions.

Bake element was glowing. . . Then by the morning, a "cancer-like" thingy traveled the length of it!after kicking off the breaker, I brought the broil down to the bake>. It worked (not recomended>. . But it worked for me). Came the new element, in 2 days. . . And all is back (the broil slots didn't line up so it was a redneck install at best til I got it back to normal). They should add the owner's faces to mt rushmore! Bless you all!

I cut of electric braker in fuse box, unscrewed two screws and replaced element in less than five minutes, really easy task. Oven worked well. Thank you Park Select, good job.

Using a torx screwdriver, I removed the old handle bracket. I had to be careful not to lose a metal spacer that went between the back of the door front panel and the back of the inside door panel. With the door in full open position, I was able to hold this spacer in my thumb and fore finger while I removed the screw. The broken portion of the handle bracket fell to the floor. With the old handle removed, I placed the screw through a hole in the inside panel, through the spacer and through a hole in the front panel. While holding the front pull bar in the right handle bracket, I placed the new bracket on the bar holding it in position on the door and attaching the screw. Easy peasy!

I am 68 years old and found that changing element was a breeze---using pliers removed nuts--unhooked bad element--rehooked new element---done------------recieved new element in 2 days--------- Thanks -----------------

This repair was super easy. I removed the two screws holding the oven sensor in place, pulled the sensor from the oven wall to expose the two wires attached to the sensor cut and spliced in the new sensor as per instructions. The supplied wiring kit made this splice very easy. I then reinserted the wires and sensor from the oven wall, put the screws back in place tested the oven. Oven now works like new and I got bonus points from a happy wife!

The reason the brackets didn't go on to the handle far enough was there was a molding defect inside one of the brackets. After alot of scraping at the inside of the bracket and lightly tapping with a soft hammer I was able to get the defective bracket on so that the holes lined up to the mounting plate. As for the extra nipples I had two options. Either cut the nipples off or drill some holes in the metal plate that the brackets attach to. I chose the latter. I had to attach the brackets to the plate with extra long screws, reach in under the bracket with a scribe and mark the nipple location on the plate. Then I removed the handle and drilled two holes for each bracket. After some minor adjustments to the holes I was able to attach both brackets and reassemble the oven door.

Make sure the oven is turned off. Simply remove the metal cover over the convection fan. Remove the two (2) oven element screws holding it to the oven wall. Disconnect the two wire leads. Connect the new element to the leads and reverse process to attach the new element to oven back wall and install the convection fan cover.

removed the broken parts and screwed on the new parts.

unscrewed broken end cap, removed from handle and replaced the new end cap

Shut off power at breaker. Removed two retaining screws, slid out element and unplugged wires, replaced heating element in reverse order. Turned power on and job was complete.

Just like the other responses described with two additional steps: 1) with a convection oven you have to remove the fan cover. It has four screws, the same size as the broiler element screws....but, get a piece of stiff cardboard the same width as the oven; put it all the way back, under the fan cover. There are holes in the oven bottom and your screws really want to roll into those holes and disappear; the cardboard will cover the holes. 2) as soon as you disconnect the element from the electrical wires....put a twist tie or other clamp on each wire as they want to fall back in behind the oven and you'll end up having to remove the build oven to get at the wires. The twist tie should keep them from falling out of reach.

After getting the part from PartSelect, which only took 2 days to get here and was in great condition and matched perfectly. I went to the customers house, shut off the power to the oven, removed the 2 screws holding in the element, pulled the element out and removed the leads. Took the new element and put the leads on the contacts, pushed the wires and leads back into the hole and screwed in the 2 screws. Went outside and turned the breaker back on, went and turned the oven on to broil, waited a few seconds and it heated up perfectly, and the customer was real happy. She said it was great that she could bake again. Thank you guys for sending the right part in a timely manner and good condition, it keeps my customers happy and keeps me in business. Joe

When I got the part I removed the tin cover (two screws)on the back of the range. I removed the sensor by removing the two screws inside the oven and pulled out the sensor. taking the instructions advise, I checked the sensor with my ohm meter and although it read 1.1 ohms as compared with the recommended 1.09 ohms at room temperature in the instructions, went ahead and changed the unit. The connector did not fit my particular model so I spliced the wiring and using the two included wire nuts made the connection. I reinstalled the sensor, reattached the gas line, plugged it in and tried the oven before I put it back in place. The oven works great now and it was super easy.

Pull door from oven and place on flat work surface. Remove bottom screws then the top screws and separate the two halves of the door . Remove broken door handles and replace reassemble door and place back on oven. The hardest thing was to clean the grease out of the inside of the door and get the glass clean to reassemble the door.