JKP27G*J2 General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

First, and most importantly, flipped the circuit breaker and turned off the power to the oven. Next, Unscrewed the old element and disconnected the wiring. Then, removed the old element and replaced it with the new one.
Reconnected the wiring to the new bake element and screwed it back onto the oven.

Voila! Turned the oven on and watched the new element heat to a bright red. We had an oven once again, and saved ourselves more than $100. Yay!

The Baking elements takes 10-15 minute each but the Broil Element is a bit tricky as the screws holding the element is difficult to get to. I also used duct tape to temporarily hold the element to stay in place.

First I removed the two screws in the back. then I removed the two screws attached to the brace at the top. pulled the old element out. Removed the screws that attatced the wires to the element. Attached the wires to the new element. Pushed the wires back in. Pushed the element in and attached the screws. Reattached the support. Turned on the broiler. The element smoked for a few seconds before getting red hot. It is working fine.

Pull the stove out from the wall and unplug. Had to remove back of stove, the aluminum sheilding and the duct work to get at wires use nut driver. Then used nut driver to remove nuts from broiler unit inside stove. Take the front overn dover off first. The new part did not match up with the wires so I used a needle nose to spread the wire clips just a tad so they would fit over the tabs of the broiler unit. Do all of this behind the stove as you do not have eough wire to do this effectively from the oven side. After I had the tabs fitted to the broiler unit. I removed them and fed wires back through the stove. I then went back to the front of the stove and put the broiler back in and put support bar back in to ceiling of stove and the two nuts back on to affix broiler to back of oven. Put the aluminum baccking and duct work back onto the back of the stove and plugged it back in. Pretty easy job.

Moved stove from wall, unplug the stove from the wall outlet, remove the oven racks, unscrew the plate against the oven wall supporting the element with a small adjustable wrench, pull out the element slowly without tearing the insulation & stretching the two wires, unscrew with a phillips screwdriver each wire with care, as a precautionary measurement: do not make contact with the other wire and any other part of the stove, even though it was still unpluged. Install the new element in reverse procedure...turn on Bake Element on low temperature..when it glows when hot..ready to go.

Turned off power at panellboard. Disconnected mounting hardware from inside oven chamber. Pulled failed heating element with wires attached into the oven chamber. Disconnected wiring and reconnected them to the new heating element. Tightened screws while holding connectors with pliers. Applied electrical tape to connections. Pushed wires back into opening and secured heating element back into place. Restored power nad verifed proper operation. The other heater purchased will be used when the bake element finally fails,

(1) Turned off power source.
(2) Removed rust on screw heads before attempting to loosening them up.
(3) Pulled the element out to expose the connections.
(4) Disconnected with phillips screw driver, taped off wires to prevent mixed-up during re-installation.
(5) Re-installed new element using new screws provided.

Took oven door off. Removed screws that were holding oven insert. Pulled out oven insert. Removed old gasket. Installed new gasket. Push oven insert back. Installed screws. Replaced oven door.

Removed the racks, removed two screws holding the element to the back of the oven, removed two screws holding wires to the element, installed by the reverse. BUT in my case the new element still didn't heat. The part was perfect so when the old element melted and shorted, it must have damaged the controlling switch (220V requires dual pole switch--apparently one side is now bad). Since the oven is over 30 yrs old, I'm returning the element and will buy a new oven.

I'm a pharmacist and no handyman but this was extremely simple. Don't let a burned out element lead to a $1,000 purchase of a new oven. I removed 2 screws in the plate using a nut driver inside the oven where bake element exits the oven (keep sheet metal screws). Removed duct work from rear of oven to expose insulation where wires are attached to element using standard screw driver. Cleaned inside of unkown chemicals spewed out during fire. Inserted new bake element, screwed wires onto element from back (2 hot wires go on one side since it's 220). I tried to use the screws that came with the element but they didn't work so I was able to use the old sheet metal screws to secure the element to the inside of the oven. Replaced duct work on back. Done.

Unplugged frige, removed top shelf, pulled broken fan blade off. Replaced with fan blade just purchased from PartSelect. Very simple repair. Orderd and recieved the right part.

shut off electricity to the range, removed the screws holding the element in place, pulled the element out as far as it would go, removed the screws holding the wires in place, tossed the old element, attached the wires to the new element, pushed the element back into place and reattached the screws holding the element in place. Turned the electricity back on and the oven heated right up.

Also, the part arrived the day after I ordered it. Great Price & Great Service.

I turned off the breaker to the oven. Removed the old element and replaced. Turned on the oven breaker and turned the over to 350 and it was working great. I was very proud of myself as a 68 year old widow.

Turned off the power to the oven. Removed the racks. Removed two screws holding the unit to the back of the oven. Removed two screws holding the wires to the terminals. Removed the old unit. Reversed the process. Piece of cake. The only "difficulty" was that the old wire-to-terminal screws required a nut driver (as did the unit-mounting screws) while the new wire-mounting screws required a #2 Phillips screw driver. Took me a couple of minutes to get one of those from the garage.

Replaced baking lower element by disconnecting the mounting plate and wire connectors at the base of the element and then reinstalling new element by reconnecting the wire connectors and mounting plate. Key to this project: Know how to identify the cause of the problem as the crack in the baking element was not immediately visible until it was removed. One could easily have assumed that some other part of the range controls were defective.