JTP15WW2WW General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

Initially replaced thermostat sensor but unsuccessful. With some help from internet repair, the removal and replacement of the electronic board was easy given the labelling on the new board was essentailly identical to older model.

The first task is to turn off the breaker so there is no power coming to the oven. I learned in the hard way that even though the oven is turned off, there is still a hot wire connected to the bake element. Next,I removed the oven door and shelves. Then I used a nutdriver to remove the two screws holding the element in place. I expected to find a plug, however the element is connected to two wires buried in the insulation. I pulled the wires off of the bake element, connected them to the new element and put everything back together. This is not a difficult task.

Unscrew the old and put in the new.

First I unplugged unit. Theni removed the two screws that hold the element in place . Then went to pull the element out to disconnect the two wires,but was having alittle trouble. There for I removed the large plate(cover) on the back of range,and removed the wires from this location. Put the new element in place,reattached wires,screwed back plate back on ,and pluged back in.

Took back panel off unplugged sensor and replugged in and worked like a charm!Sears wanted $400 and was going to 'overrepair"Got the 60 dollar part on here. UPS shipped to wrong address and customer service refunded my shipping and was excellent! would definetly use again!thanks

Feedback on site warned me that broiler element is only connected to oven wiring with press-on spade lugs rather than screws. Even with care I managed to 'lose' a wire and had to retrieve it with section of stiff coat-hanger wire bent into a hook. Coming off that experience, I soldered the spade terminals together before reassembly to avoid a repeat. New element, however, failed to rectify problem. Professional technician found main control unit defective -- a $300 part including installation, but at least GE still has it available. My advice to others in this situation is to remove old element before ordering a replacement, and test with meter to see if it's defective. It may or may not be worth going beyond an element replacement to you.

nothing to it.

Removed oven from cabinet and replaced oven control board, door lock was included in package,installed it also, installed new limit sensors. removing the connections from the old control and putting them on the new one was a little difficult, just have to be gental,plyers worked well, the new control had revised selonids that had 4 terminals and I only had 2 wires, one for bake and one for broil, the selonids had paint dots to show you which ternimal to hook the wires to, yellow on bake and violet on the broil, Lb1 had a stamp on the circuit board next to the side ternimal, the other two ternimals were blank for me. It would be real nice if a diagram was included, even after contacting GE answer center and requesting a diagram, they only had the orginal print that came with the stove, revised the board and not the blueprints, see how that works, call a tech to hook up 2 wires. Put oven back in cabinet and no more error codes.

The part was just like the old one and would have been an easy fix except our range suffered from a lighting hit. The clips had melted together. Called a dealer and asked about a new wiring harness. He said in those cases just cut the clip off and hard wire with wire clips,or firecrackers. We used wire nuts and taped all together and the oven works just great. Nothing is ever as easy as it should be.

Removed oven from wall. Door slides up and off, and 4 screws into cabinet removed, and oven slides right out onto a coulple kitchen chairs positioned to support the oven. 1 man job to lift. Used nutdriver to remove metal cover on bottom back of oven to expose the slide on electrical connection. Used nutdriver to remove old bake element and install new bake element. Reconnected electrical wires, reinstalled back cover, and then reinstalled oven into cabinet. I actually removed the internal metal cover over the convection fan and element also but probably didn't need to do that to remove and install the new bake element.

I found that some of the wires were hard to remove, so I had to use a pliers. When it came time to install the new part, I found it easier to mark the wires by color on a piece of paper and their location from right to left as I was looking at it. To me it was to hard to try to hang on the panel and try to plug the wires into the new part.

After securing the power, removed wires one at a time and placed them in the new controller. The new unit was slightly different at a couple connectors but both old and new boards were marked with alphanumerics and or colors.

1. Switch electricity off at circuit breaker panel. 2. With a helper slide door off hinges and set aside. 3. Remove all oven racks. 4. Using socket wrench remove the two screws attaching element to back of stove. 5. Pull the element from the back of the stove and slide off the 2 electric bayonet clips from the old element. 6. Install new element attaching the new element to the old electrical clips. Note: You may have to crimp down the clips to keep them secure to the new element. 7. Reinstall element screws to back of stove using nutdriver. 8. Insert racks and slide door back onto hinges. 9. Turn back on electricity. 10. Turn on element and let it "burn in" for a few minutes. Note: There will be a slight smell while doing this.

Easily glide in.

The whole process was very easy! I just got the model number and bought a new rack and silverware holder on,one. There was no assembly needed so I just popped them in and replaced the old ones! Very easy to do!